Nothing but the Groove Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down
12 mins
Seepage

A large, grey-streaked wall with many excellent and sustained wall pitches. Its proximity to the parking and the spread of quality routes across the grades make it quite a popular spot. Seepage can be a problem. Guidebook page 171.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Spare Rib
Fine climbing, following a clean white tower of rock.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
2
Girl Power
A bouldery crux on compact rock up the right-hand side of the arete.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
3
Steve's Route
After an easy start, the central scoop gives an absorbing climb.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
4
Retaining the Ashes
A testing pitch that follows a leaning, thin crack up the wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
5
Into the Groove
A short, but useful link-up. Start as for Retaining the Ashes.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
6
Nothing but the Groove Top 50
The soaring groove on the left-hand side of the wall is a fine line, although the groove itself is relatively easy. Move up...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c+
7
Running It In!
A very direct line that involves a good deal of fingery and technical moves with little in the way of respite.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
8
Superfly Guy
A quality pitch. Climb up and then left, past some good pockets to a large hold below the upper wall. Make some difficult moves...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
9
Lost in Rock
Good technical moves are the main ingredients of this often-overlooked route. Climb the initial wall, then pull rightwards over...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
10
The Man Who Never Found Himself
An enjoyable climb. Ascend the steep lower wall and bulge to the base of the corner. Follow the corner to the top.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
11
Van People
A fine climb, although a little run-out in places. Climb straight up the wall and bulges to meet a very shallow depression on...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
12
Fantasy Island
An unusually tough layback which is sometimes damp.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
13
Dosvadanya
A diagonal traverse from Fantasy Island to the lower-off on Retaining the Ashes. A sling is needed to extend the 2nd bolt. 35m...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
14
La Usurpadora
An artificial eliminate up the wall right of Fantasy Island. Climb the fingery wall direct until a traverse rightwards joins...
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
15
Heartland
A short, but significant link-up. Move a little way up the wall and break right to join Shining Heart at its powerful crux.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
16
Shining Heart
A well-positioned power problem. Move up the wall and step left. Powerful moves up the rib allow a crack to be grasped. Climb...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
17
Frenzied Detruncation
A tough start is the entry price to the fine groove line above. Make technical and fingery moves on tiny crimps and smears to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
18
Prison Sex
The shallow arete is completely desperate from start to finish.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
19
Midnight Oil
Considered to be a worthwhile line.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
20
Hang 'em High
A smart test-piece which supersedes an older route called Gunbarrel Highway that gained the line by stepping out right from...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7b
21
Gun Runner
Occasionally wet due to a drainage streak, but a good line.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
  • Latest Comments

    For COASTGUARD NORTH

    Dr Phibes
    "Very good. Ukc comments about low in grade are from someone who clearly doesn't ..." 19/Apr

    The Man Who Never Found Himself
    "The first bolt has now been replaced." 01/Jun

    Midnight Oil
    "Definitely not a poor route." 23/May

    Dr Phibes
    "The challenge is not to barn door at the start, crux is over by the 3rd. This w..." 23/May

    El Poder de un Coño
    "Excellent route, well worth seeking out. You may want your mate to place the thi..." 28/Sep

    Prison Sex
    "Hard starting rock over, and then a really hard move, after that the correct des..." 24/Sep

    Eternal Spider
    "Brilliant Route powerful" 30/Jun

    El Poder de un Coño
    "Fantastic finishing position, one of the best on the west coast." 01/Jun

    The Man Who Never Found Himself
    "First bolt no longer in place so suggest clipping the first bolt on previous rou..." 12/May

    Vespasian
    "it looks like the vertical handhold for the right hand at the beginning of the c..." 21/Jul

    Midnight Oil
    "If it was at any other west coast crag it would score a star. Its the shadow of..." 03/Jul

    Vespasian
    "this must be a very difficult route to grade (not unlike most other hard routes ..." 16/Jun

    Superfly Guy
    "Great route that needs a bit of tenacity" 06/May

    Nothing but the Groove
    "Felt like a 1 star 6b+. Nice, but easy groove at the top." 09/Jul top50

    Frenzied Detruncation
    "Bouldery start which isn't too bad once you have a good sequence. The real crux ..." 06/May

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