Bad Moon Rising Area

Adjacent Areas
< Xaviers Wall Area  |  Quick as Rainbows Area >

Sport
Afternoon sun
18 mins
Up and Down
Tidal

Lots of long, sustained wall climbs and some mean roofs are the main ingredients of this section of crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
What Gives, My Son?
23m. A disjointed crack-line.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
2
Wavewatch
Climb the straightforward wall to a final steepening. A hard sequence gains the lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
3
Full Fathom Five
The steady lower wall gains a difficult and bouldery finish.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
4
Bad Moon Rising
An impressive pitch up the blunt arete which gets harder as you get higher. Can be dusty and the first bolt is high.
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
5
A Ship Load of Moonies
A fine pitch moving right from the start of Bad Moon Rising and finding a surprisingly easy way up this steep wall.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
6c+
6
Dead by Sunset
Very sustained climbing which overhangs all the way. There is a difficult step left onto a shelf near the bottom.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
7
Witchdoctor
A route of two sections, pumpy low down and a technical headwall. At present it is a bold lead and deserves E6.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b
8
Vampire Killers
Another pumper with a delicate yet powerful scoop high up. Good climbing, but it can be dirty.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
9
The Lost Buoys
A 7a first half leads to desperate crimping up the leaning rib to reach an easier crack to finish. Needs cool conditions.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
10
No Survivors
Worthwhile climbing which is spoilt by a rest at half-height. Can get dusty at the top.
 
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
11
A Meeting of Minds
A massive roof test-piece at the bottom makes this one an unusual outing. A big half-height rest is the reward.
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
12
Lip Service
Great rock and a swing left on the lip of the roof provide the fun.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a
13
Bermuda Triangle
Start as for the last route, but climb straight over the bulge and up the lovely grey slab. Super climbing on great rock.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
6c
14
A Bird in the Hand
A crimpy lower wall leads to an easy upper slab. A bit unbalanced, but great rock.
 
Crimpy
7a+
15
Hasta La Vista
A fine steep start leads to a good slabby finish, but unfortunately it is spoilt by the big ledge in between.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
6b+
  • Latest Comments

    For COASTGUARD SOUTH

    Darkest Before Dawn
    "Thoroughly enjoyed this. Basically a V4 followed by a pleasant 6b." 01/Jul

    Biscuits for Smut
    "Hard for the grade, moving through the roof after the groove is very difficult -..." 28/May

    Tennessee
    "This route is fantastic, as good as (if not better) than Dominatrix at Kilnsey, ..." 26/Jun

    Full Fathom Five
    "Agree with all the comments, brittle 6c plus lower wall, then 15 feet of good mo..." 28/Sep

    California Dreams
    "Awful route now missing its first bolt as well. I wish I had read these comments..." 14/Sep

    Time Bomb
    "i dont agree did this today and thought it was a solid 7a with the lower moves b..." 27/Jun

    L'Odyssee Noire
    "The start is very hard - I thought about V3 - and the bulge higher up involves a..." 22/Jun

    American Beauty
    "American Beauty has certainly had a face lift.. 3 bolts missing along with the r..." 16/May

    Xavier's Wall
    "cool and varied route, pretty 'out there' climbing for the grade, much harder if..." 01/Jun

    American Beauty
    "The central part of this route now appears to have fallen down (their is a block..." 12/May

    Full Fathom Five
    "agree, how can this be 3 stars? A path to just below then the top, then a bould..." 31/Jul

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