Exodus

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

Two isolated buttresses which are well worth a look if you are after orange spot routes. The challenges are provided by some fine crack climbs (real 'traditional' grit HVS routes) on the Exodus wall, and some contrasting and pleasant fingery problems on Puss Buttress.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cheeky Little Number
The left arete of the face sees little attention.
 
Fluttery
E2 5b
2
Exodus
The left-hand crack from a niche gives steep jamming with a feeling of urgency despite its brevity.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
3
Deuteronomy
From the lowest point of the wall, climb the jamming crack then step left and take a brace of cracks. Hard work!
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
4
Leviticus
The best defined crack, just to the right of the centre of the wall, gives more steep and well-protected jamming.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
5
Missing Numbers
The right-most crack in the wall is short but still steep.
1 user comment
 HVS 5a
6
E.M.F.
The right arete of the face is not without interest.
 HVS 5a
7
Treatment
The left edge of the square-fronted tower across the gully is approached up easy rock and has one long reach.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
VS 5a
8
Sudoxe
The centre of the square-fronted tower is climbed pleasantly using some 'blisters'. Avoid sneaking off right for the full...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
9
Radox
The right arete of the tower is the weakest of the trio.
 S 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

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