South Cliff

Adjacent Areas
< Mirthmaid Zawn Area  |  None >

Sport
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Level

This short wall of tough routes lies underneath the approach path. Most of the routes don't have lower-offs, but there are belays above including some staples. Guidebook page 183.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Evening Delight
The first line on the wall.
 4a
2
Song of the Sea
The wall left of the pillar.
 5c
3
Balance of Power
The pillar above the cave offers a fine technical challenge. Has been soloed above shallow water but is not really a DWS.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
4
The Pipers of Portland
Pull out of the cave and climb the groove to the left of the large pipe. A very strenuous outing.
 
1 Stars
Strong
6c
5
Funnel Web
Climb the groove just right of the streak below the cliff-top pipe.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
6
End of Season Sale
Shares the first two bolts with Funnel Web. Traverse right from the cave into a hidden groove.
 6b
7
The Reign of Steel
Clip the first bolt on Red Raw then break left and climb a groove.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
8
Red Raw
Move leftwards to the blank rib and climb it with great difficulty.
 
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
9
Tickled Pink
The short groove capped by a twin roof is desperate.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7c
10
Wafer Thin
From a higher ledge, climb a flake to a tricky finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
11
Run, Rabbit, Run
Pull over a low bulge and then climb direct up the steep slab via a shallow groove and blank headwall.
 
Technical
6b+
12
Staple Diet
The blank slab is not as tricky as it looks. Climb the slab passing a small ledge near the finish.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6b
13
Painted Lady
Good climbing between jugs on the faint rib. Pull over the low overhang to a good hold and then gain the flake by a big move.
 
Reachy
6a+
14
The Feather
Another thin, slabby wall on slightly crumbly rock.
 6c
15
Rust Never Sleeps
Delicate and fingery climbing up the wall.
 
Technical
6a
16
The Cruel Sea
The shallow corner/flake has a surprisingly awkward move.
1 user comment
 5c
17
Adonis Blue
The centre of the wall with a grit-like crux. Use an undercut to reach a flat hold, from where a difficult mantel accesses a...
 6b+
18
Chalk-hill Blue
Innocuous-looking, but looks can be deceptive. Make a long reach to a rail and then make an even bigger one to respite - or...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6a+
  • Latest Comments

    For WHITE HOLE

    Mirthmaid
    "Is the lower band of rock here dry very often any time of the year? Yet to find..." 24/Jul

    Staple Diet
    "Great route! Broke a hold yesterday, but there is still enough of it left to ..." 15/Oct

    The Cruel Sea
    "Only one awkward move." 09/Oct

    Balance of Power
    "Oh, yes they have... Gav Symonds - solo!" 04/Jul

    Balance of Power
    "As far as I'm aware - no." 07/Nov

    Balance of Power
    "Has anyone repeated?" 06/Nov

    Chalk-hill Blue
    "This route has a lot of great moves packed in one after another. It took a lot o..." 06/Sep

    Funnel Web
    "I echo Toms comments." 18/Jul

    Dead in Europe
    "Climbing the grey wall direct (rather than moving left to the layback flake) is ..." 20/Aug

    Dead in Europe
    "Scalped a whole load of us this weekend, Consensus say 7b." 20/Aug

    Funnel Web
    "i found it hard going for the grade but worth climbing." 08/Mar

    Kinaesthesia
    "Pete took the massive fall off the top crux on a solo attempt last summer! RAD!" 10/Mar

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