Adjacent Areas
< Deep Zawn | Too Funky Beach Area >
Sport
Morning sun
Level
5 minsTidal
Windy
A pleasant bay with some short, hard routes that are very bouldery, including the fabulous traverse of The Waveband. There are a number of very short bouldery routes bolted around the cove that are not recorded here. Good conditions are needed and are at their best in winter. The beach level varies. Guidebook page 188.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
El Scorchio Start just right of a big cave and climb the short bulging wall slightly leftwards. There are two ways of climbing the crux. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
2 |
Maximum Grrr... Make fierce moves up the blank wall, starting from a slot near the corner and finishing via a short layback. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
3 |
L'eau Profile Make contorted moves directly over the roof on the front of the undercut buttress. | 1 Stars Strong | 7c |
4 |
Private Dancer The short and technical groove on the right of the buttress. Top-out or lower off the last bolt. | 6b | |
5 |
Jug City Climb to a juggy headwall. There is a staple belay on block. | 4 | |
6 |
Jugalicious Break right at Jug City ledge. There is a staple belay on block. | 3 | |
7 |
Matt's Dilemma The left-hand line on the seaward face. The left side of the arete has been climbed using the same bolts at 6a. | 3 | |
8 |
Games Without Frontiers A faint groove. Climb left of the bolts and then back right to the lower-off. | 4 | |
9 |
The Dog's Bollocks Intricate moves up the wall to the left of the arete. | 6a | |
10 |
Tide and Time The surprisingly awkward groove. | 4+ | |
11 |
Thirty Years Young 7m. A short solo up the right-hand side of the left-hand arete with a desperate start to gain the pocket and a committing move... | Crimpy Fluttery | E3 6b |
12 |
Burbage Belle Pure bouldering. Jump to the break to start then tackle the Fontainebleau-like bulge. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 7c |
13 |
The Big Blue Top 50 A tremendous test-piece that blasts up the central hanging groove by some very hard moves. Probably 8a for the short. Jump to... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Strong | 7c+ |
14 |
Ninth Wave A very aesthetic problem taking the hanging crack right of the prow. Jump to the break to start. It has been soloed, but it... | 1 Stars | 7a+ |
15 |
Zimmerframe with Attitude A desperate V8 boulder-problem start leads to the awkward corner. Used to be 6c, but a rockfall altered the start. | 7c | |
16 |
The O'lympets A pleasant climb taking the vague crack in the side-wall after a hard start. | Technical | 6c+ |
17 |
The Waveband The best boulder traverse on the Isle - more of a journey than a boulder problem. Start from a hand ledge below Zimmerframe...... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Rounded | V9 |
18 |
Honorary Froggatt A hard bulging start then teeter up an 'Artless-style' ramp. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
19 |
Pocketful of Shells A strenuous start then technical stuff up the corner. 1 user comment | 7b | |
20 |
A Girl of the Limberlost Start at a short crack to the right of an arete. Move left around the arete and finish directly. | 6b | |
21 |
The Huts Have Eyes Further right from A Girl of the Limberlost another wall rises from a low ledge. Climb the crimpy wall before the arete. | 6a+ | |
22 |
Somewhere West of Laramie Right of The Huts Have Eyes. Climb the left-hand side of the arete above a ledge. | 6a+ | |
23 |
Not in Kansas Anymore The wall just right of the right-hand side of the arete. | 6a+ | |