Neddyfields Main Cliff

Adjacent Areas
< Left-hand Cliff  |  None >

Trad and Sport
Morning sun
5 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

The Neddyfields Main Cliff is a popular morning crag with plenty of friendly grades. It is quick to reach, has a pleasant outlook, is sheltered from strong westerly winds and offers shade on summer afternoons.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Conquistadors of the Useless
Ascend the not quite blank wall via a bouldery sequence.
 
1 Stars
6c
2
Small object of Desire
Another shorty. Tricky moves gain a sloping scoop.
 
1 Stars
6a+
3
Annapurna, Mon Amour
Move up the wall via an overlap.
 6a+
4
The Accelerator
This micro-route starts halfway down the descent. Don't be deceived by its length; it packs a lot in. Low in the grade.
16 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a
5
Nameless
A very bouldery route with just the one hard move. It is easier to top-out and walk around than lower off.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
6
Born to Hunt
A fierce and sequency wall climb that gradually builds in difficulty.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
7
Thick as Thieves
Easy climbing to one nails move.
9 user comments
 
Reachy
6c
8
Three in a Bed
Start next to an old rusty ring. Make hard initial moves to gain the easier upper face.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
5c
9
Frank's Effort
The wall just right of Three in a Bed, starting as for that line.
 HS 4a
10
Steve's Wall
The wall to join, and finish up the line of Frank's Effort.
 VS 4b
11
I Wish I Was In Steve's Shoes
A difficult start leads to a steep bulge - take care with the rock.
 5c
12
Felix Navidad
Easy lower ledges lead to a fingery mid-section.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
13
Infelicity
Move up past a low bolt and small pedestal. Finish up the pleasant wall.
 
Pumpy
6a
14
Milly Vanilly
Make a stiff pull at a head-height bolt and climb the sustained wall above.
 
Pumpy
6a
15
Books Across the Sea
The wall and overlap.
 6a
16
Puppet Show of Memory
The crack, wall and rib at the right-hand end of the wall.
 6a
17
Damn These Electric Sex Pants
Bolted line to the left of Kate. Start by an iron stake.
 6a+
18
Kate
One of the old trad-lines on the cliff - now bolted.
 6b+
19
Wonderlust
A very popular line. Low in the grade, but don't underestimate the finish, which has a hard move.
17 user comments
 
2 Stars
6b
20
Intimidation
Start to the right of Wonderlust and work left crossing Wonderlust at mid-height.
 E1 5b
21
Shit Route
Now considered to be better than the route name it was originally given. A difficult bulge and finishing crack supply the...
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
7a
22
Julie Ocean
Well-positioned moves on the headwall. The lower moves are easy, but the climbing builds up nicely to a first-class crux...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
23
Northern Invasion
Start easy and finish with difficulty, the headwall is hard to read.
 
Technical
Pumpy
7a
24
Bigus Dickus
An old trad line that has been retro-bolted.
 
Pumpy
6b
25
Lugwiler's Dismal Itch
A worthwhile route with good moves all the way and with the harder climbing based around its mid-section. The moves on the...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
26
Ecosystem
Quite a pleasant climb with some interesting moves over the roof on clean rock. Low in the grade.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
27
Time of the Month
A lovely climb which has an intricate middle section. Much easier at the top.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
28
Inception
The mid-height bulge gives food for thought, but keep something in reserve for the last move.
15 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
5c
29
The Screwfix Escourt Agency
The wall and tricky headwall.
 
1 Stars
6a+
30
The Scoop
The wall next to The Screwfix Escourt Agency.
 S 4a
31
Better Things
The corner-line.
 HS 4a
32
Ocean Boulevard
Start by a low overhang and an iron ring on the ground. There is a difficult opening move over the roof. The wall above is...
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
4c
33
Outside Left
The corner.
 S 4a
34
Crush with Eyeliner
Climb the wall.
 E1 5b
35
Bundle of Joy
Climb diagonally leftwards to good fingery moves through the knobbly band of rock.
 
1 Stars
4a
36
Sunday Rake
The left-trending ramp.
 S 4a
37
Spider Cracks
The depression.
 HVS 5a
38
The Wilsonator
Climb past the ledge to the roof, hand traverese left and up the flake.
 6b
39
Jobby's Leaving Gift
The wall past a chert band.
 5b
40
Joe Stole My Route
Break out right from Jobby's Leaving Gift.
 5b
41
Butterfly Crack
The wide crack.
 S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For NEDDYFIELDS

    Ecosystem
    "Clean and pleasant jug hauling with no move as hard as the crux of Time of The M..." 23/Jan

    Wonderlust
    "stunning route. no loose stuff except the dust but with these huge jugs no prob!..." 30/Sep

    Julie Ocean
    "It might be dusty low down but it's not that unpleasent as the holds are big and..." 20/Jul

    The Accelerator
    "this route has never ever seen 7a, more like 6b" 05/Dec

    Ocean Boulevard
    "Hard pull to get going, and then lovely climbing on great holds" 26/Sep

    First Contact
    "Excellent headwall." 22/Sep

    Nothing's Shocking
    "Top moves feel very committing, laybacking above the bolt, but it's all there. A..." 23/Aug

    Fountain of Youth
    "getting slightly polished" 04/Aug top50

    Ocean Boulevard
    "Nice warm up route, with an interesting start." 01/Jun

    Jimbo's Right Hand
    "A huge section was pulled off the top right of the problem. Luckily it's still ..." 07/Sep

    Ocean Boulevard
    "Bouldery start into more huge juggy thuggishness." 22/Aug

    Time of the Month
    "Easy enough climbing except one tough PERIOD :)" 02/Aug

    Inception
    "The route to the right of Inception is The Screwfix Escort Agency and is 6a ..." 15/Jul

    Inception
    "Steve pulled off a large head-sized flake from between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Do..." 04/Jul

    Pock Mark
    "can anyone shed some light as to where this goes? is the good edge in the break ..." 30/Jun

    The Accelerator
    "I thought the crux to be hard 6a maybe low-end 6b (English technical) - but it m..." 09/Jun

    Ecosystem
    "I climbed this quite blinkered, and thought it a grade harder than the 6bs I hav..." 16/May

    Ocean Boulevard
    "The start is tough for a F4 climber; F5b, I believe." 29/Apr

    Brace Yourself Sheila
    "Shouldn't get the technical symbol" 27/Apr

    Inception
    "Wouldn't say it was 6a as there's only really that one tough 5+ crux move on the..." 20/Apr

    Diversion
    "I don't think this can be V3 from a sitter. It's felt reasonable at V3 from stan..." 05/Apr

    Wonderlust
    "I would keep away from this route as a massive block about the size of a TV drop..." 26/Mar

    The Groove
    "Using the easiest method (not obvious) this problem is V4 and the 'top incuts' e..." 19/Nov

    Thick as Thieves
    "Been back on this, clearly I was weak before did the top move no problem - 6b+ o..." 12/Nov

    Ocean Boulevard
    "Thought it dirty and unrewarding. One star is being too kind." 09/Oct

    Pete's Rib
    "So obvious and so good I will be very surprised if I'm really the first to have ..." 30/Sep

    The Accelerator
    "Very easy for 7a, flashed it. I found the 6c next to it much harder." 09/Jul

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