Lost Valley Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
3 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

A hidden ravine with a good selection of sheltered sport routes that are worth a look in windy weather. The rock is good, and the routes, although short, offer some intense sequences.
Approach - From Cheyne Weares car park, walk north for 150m (left when looking out), until a rocky ravine on the left is reached - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tug on this Jody
A bouldery start gains some monos on the top wall to finish.
 
Technical
Strong
7a
2
Look West & Find Salvation
A hard start gains an easing prior to a reachy finishing move.
 
Reachy
7a+
3
Quite Nice Actually
Climb the flake to a grunt through the upper overhang.
1 user comment
 
Strong
6b+
4
Little Pinky
Ascend some flowstone to a hard move using a mono undercut.
 
Technical
6b+
5
Drilling in the Name
Climb the blunt buttress left of Robin Crack directly.
 
1 Stars
6b+
6
Robin Crack
Climb the crack via a loose, but well keyed-in hold.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
5a
7
Clamped Aggression
A good route. Powerful climbing on slopers and finger pockets.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
6b+
8
Back Door to Heaven
Start up Clamped Aggression. Traverse right from the high jug into the groove of Heaven Sent. Finish as for this.
 f6B
9
Return to Sender
Do the sit-down-start to Clamped Aggression. Traverse low and to the right into the start of Heaven Sent.
 f6C
10
Heaven Sent
Gain a groove via holds on the wall to the left. Continue to the breaks (or to the lower-off of Clamped Aggression for a full...
1 user comment
 
Technical
f7A
11
Straight to Heaven
Climb the groove direct.
 
Technical
f7A+
12
Garden Force
The flake. This can be done as a route by continuing to the lower off of Clamped Aggression - HVS 5c. There is a direct variant...
2 user comments
 f5
13
Bastard Crack
The name says it all. The thin crack in the arete.
1 user comment
 7a
14
Plystalker
A hard boulder problem past the first bolt.
1 user comment
 
Technical
7c
15
No Chutney on His Ferret
An awkward crack - one for those with some crack technique.
2 user comments
 5c
16
LR Traverse
The left-to-right traverse.
 f6A
17
Chapter and Verse
The very short groove has gained a grade or two.
5 user comments
 6a
18
Oatsheaf, Chief
A slight rib has also had a serious upgrade.
5 user comments
 5c
19
Training for Hubble
Good rock. Care needed clipping the second bolt.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
20
The Stoning of St.Stephen
Tendon-stretching pocket-pulling with a bouldery start.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
7b+
21
Mono y Mono
A bouldery route just right of The Stoning of St.Stephen.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
22
Cadwallader
A strong line up the thin crack-line.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
6b+
23
Redundancy Crack
6m. The right-hand crack.
1 user comment
 E1 5b
24
The Martyr
A good test-piece, but the old bolts are now rusting.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
25
The Secret Garden
The steep wall and groove to the break, then easier ground.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
26
The Beauty of Decay
The thin twin cracks.
1 user comment
 
Technical
6b+
27
Flake Away
The flake-line up the left-hand side of the pinnacle.
2 user comments
 4a
28
Portrait of a Lady
Take the centre of the pillar between Flake Away and Flaked Out.
 
Technical
6c+
29
Flaked Out
A tricky crack leads to the right-hand side of the flake pinnacle.
2 user comments
 4c
30
Echoes of Trad
The offwidth crack yields to some pleasant ledge shuffling.
2 user comments
 4c
31
Test Pilot
A technical delight up the corner groove.
 
1 Stars
6a
32
Primordial
The wall to the right of Test Pilot.John Leonard 18.11.2009
 
1 Stars
6a+
33
Touch the Earth
The miniscule crack requires disproportionate effort.Mick Ward 02.11.2009
 7a
34
Constant Companion
The arete to the right of Touch the Earth.John Leonard 12.12.2009
2 user comments
 5a
35
Sweet Dreams are Made of This
The first route on the small opposing wall.
 3+
36
4, 8, 15, 16, 23, 42
A tricky start leads to good holds in the breaks.
2 user comments
 4c
37
Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite
The central line has a hard move to pass the upper break.
2 user comments
 5a
38
Not the Same Mistake Again Kath
A hard-to-read sequence to reach the lower-off.
2 user comments
 5c
39
Plastic Tractor
Another tricky start leads to good holds in the breaks.
 3+
40
The Lost Domain
The arete passed on the approach above the awkward step.
 6a
41
Enjoy My Experience
On the front face of the ravine is a short route with rusting bolts.
 6c+