The New Cuttings

Adjacent Areas
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Boulder
Morning sun
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

A great little crag that is almost always in condition and has a good set of short and technical routes in both the higher and lower grades. Some of the harder lines have boulder-problem starts that are often climbed/attempted in their own right and makes the grading of the lines slightly awkward. The crag is very sheltered, being well away from the sea and gets sun from early in the day. To the left of the route Subyouth the cliff falls away in height and has been developed as a good bouldering venue.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Phat Traverse
6m. A fine, fingery traverse from The Fat Controller to the ledge left of Phats and Bigs.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
V2 5c
2
The Fat Controller
6m. The technical blind crack.
 
Technical
V3 6A
3
Phat Slapper
6m. A tight eliminate just left of Pastoral, not touching the crack. Very dynamic.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
V6 7A
4
Pastoral
6m. A SDS can be added but there is no real increase in grade.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
V8 7B+
5
Descent Horizon
6m. The corner crack.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
V3 6A
6
White Baron
6m. A low start. A V6 variation breaks right at the sloper at head-height.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V5 6C
7
White Baron Left
6m. The left-hand side of the arete with a committing move near the top. There is also a harder low start at V7.
 
Technical
Fluttery
V5 6C
8
Gunpowder Plot
6m. A very good problem.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V5 6C
9
Guy Fawkes
6m. The direct start to Gunpowder Plot, from a low jug, past two hideous crimps. Now harder since loss of holds.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
V10 7C+
10
Firestarter
6m. An extended boulder problem left from the pocket on Subyouth.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
V6 7A
11
Subyouth
A hard and height-dependant start is followed by a pause at the break and a final heave over the roof. High in the grade.
18 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7b+
12
Flowers on the Razor Wire
Climb the thin corner with difficulty and then take the roof and wall above via a troublesome sequence past a good hidden hold.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
6c
13
Nu Skool
6m. An eliminate up the centre of the right wall starting from the pocket on Stompin' using the right arete and side-pulls on...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
V6 7A
14
Stompin' with Bez
A hideously hard and bouldery start (V8 ) to a steep finish through the capping roof. It can be started direct by dynoing to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c
15
The Fibonacci Sequence
Climb direct up the arete right of Stompin' with Bez to a desperate move to gain the layaway on Stompin' with Bez, finish over...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
7c+
16
Lats, Babes and Bolts
The flowstone pocked wall is both fingery and reachy. Finish over the roof as for The Fibonacci Sequence. The first 3m is V8.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b+
17
Razorface
6m. A fingery traverse from undercuts on Unworthy to the pocket on Subyouth. Use a high crimp on Lats, .. or go low (easier)....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
V8 7B+
18
Bogus Roof
Start up The Unworthy then fly leftwards over the roof.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
19
The Unworthy
A cracker. Short but steep, varied and surprisingly pumpy.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6c
20
The Vulcanites
A good alternative first half to The Unworthy.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
21
Deadlosski Must Die
Unusual and awkward climbing up a layback pod.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
22
Leer of Beethoven
A very hard sequence from the mid-height undercut. Linking leftwards into Deadlosski Must Die is 7b and the variant using the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
23
Bunfight at the Portland Corral
Climb up the wide layback crack and from its top move up and left to the lower-off at the top of Leer of Beethoven.
 
1 Stars
5c
24
Nobody Runs for Free
10m. A flowstone ramp. The short arete to the left is V4.
4 user comments
 6b
25
Buddleia Boulevard
Up the left-hand crack behind the tree.
 4c
26
Skaterdater
Up the right-hand crack.
 4c
27
Phats and Bigs
6m. Climb direct up the blank face left of the crack of The Fat Controller. Don't touch the ledge on the left or the undercut...
10 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
V5 6C
  • Latest Comments

    For THE CUTTINGS

    Infernal Din
    "At last! What an effort! For "shorties" like me (5' 9") the third..." 19/Aug

    Levitation by Proxy
    "A one move wonder, but at least its an interesting one!" 28/May

    Rusty Chubblock Seeks Oil of Lubrication
    "Broke the crux crimp. Sorry. It only crumbled a tiny bit and for a hold on any o..." 28/May

    The Mouth Waters
    "Blind moves (as described above) in damp conditions last week - no onsight but s..." 29/Apr

    Infernal Din
    "The wording seems to have got lost in the latest edition but IMHO the last guide..." 29/Apr

    Under Duress
    "The first of the two crimps on the bulge, (the crystal one,) has broken off. It'..." 31/Dec

    Mindmeld
    "Lost a hold, making the moves past the first bolt slightly harder. Definitely wo..." 04/Jul

    Want Out
    "Agreed Iain, the sequence is hard to work out but there is one there but some wh..." 31/May

    Three Fingers
    "Good to read the other comments, thought route pretty tough n exposed for a 4" 04/May

    Want Out
    "Did this last year. Good route but a lot of faffing to find a workable sequence...." 11/Apr

    Subyouth
    "I was suprised when this got down graded from 7c :/" 03/Feb

    Subyouth
    "v7 into a v6?! how is that only 7b+? when plyometrically is a hard v7 into v1..." 25/Jan

    Streamline
    "I'm not sure that it was climbed sometime ago..." 02/Dec

    Streamline
    "sorry make that to the right of streamline...." 28/Nov

    Three Fingers
    "Chose to do this as a warm up before Two Fingers, and it threw me completely to ..." 24/Oct

    Fighting Torque
    "new route that starts up this but then goes straight up the blunt arete to the r..." 19/Sep

    Rusty Chubblock Seeks Oil of Lubrication
    "This is pretty much a four move boulder problem - a reachy rock-over into sharp,..." 17/Jun

    Live by the Sword
    "Now has a BMC-sponsored independent chain anchor." 10/Jun

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