The New Cuttings

Adjacent Areas
< The Ditch  |  Bonsai Area >

Boulder
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

A great little crag that is almost always in condition and has a good set of short and technical routes in both the higher and lower grades. Some of the harder lines have boulder-problem starts that are often climbed/attempted in their own right and makes the grading of the lines slightly awkward. The crag is very sheltered, being well away from the sea and gets sun from early in the day. To the left of the route Subyouth the cliff falls away in height and has been developed as a good bouldering venue.
Approach - Follow Church Ope Road under an arch and down to a flat area with some benches. From here, take the coast path (not the path to Church Ope Cove) to a wide track which leads to The Cuttings in a couple of minutes. The New Cuttings is the first encountered on the approach track and is partially hidden by a low embankment on the left of the track.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Subyouth
A hard and height-dependant start is followed by a pause at the break and a final heave over the roof. High in the grade.
18 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7b+
2
Flowers on the Razor Wire
Climb the thin corner with difficulty and then take the roof and wall above via a troublesome sequence past a good hidden hold.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
6c
3
Stompin' with Bez
A hideously hard and bouldery start (V8 ) to a steep finish through the capping roof. It can be started direct by dynoing to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c
4
Lats, Babes and Bolts
The flowstone pocked wall is both fingery and reachy. Finish over the roof as for The Fibonacci Sequence. The first 3m is V8.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b+
5
Bogus Roof
Start up The Unworthy then fly leftwards over the roof.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
6
The Unworthy
A cracker. Short but steep, varied and surprisingly pumpy.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6c
7
The Vulcanites
A good alternative first half to The Unworthy.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
8
Deadlosski Must Die
Unusual and awkward climbing up a layback pod.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
9
Leer of Beethoven
A very hard sequence from the mid-height undercut. Linking leftwards into Deadlosski Must Die is 7b and the variant using the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
10
Bunfight at the Portland Corral
Climb up the wide layback crack and from its top move up and left to the lower-off at the top of Leer of Beethoven.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
5c
11
Nobody Runs for Free
10m. A flowstone ramp. The short arete to the left is V4.
4 user comments
 6b
12
Buddleia Boulevard
Up the left-hand crack behind the tree.
2 user comments
 4c
13
Skaterdater
Up the right-hand crack.
2 user comments
 4c
14
Elephant on Rollerskates
An appealing climb that follows the flowstone sheet left of a shallow corner. Start on the left and move up to a good hold...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
4c
15
Limbo Dancer
Start at the base of the shallow corner. Make a hard move up the corner and then climb the wall on the right via good small...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
5c
16
Tipping the Scales
The short blank wall is a very tough little cookie.
16 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
17
Pop for the Top
The thin crack in the wall just right of Tipping the Scales is another short, but fingery exercise. Do what it says on the tin.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
18
Two Nuns, a Hang-glider and Jesus
The steep corner with bolts on its right wall is more difficult than it first appears. Finish up the short wall above.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
4c
19
The Running Man
A tricky piece of climbing that heads up right to join the upper section of Bend Sinister.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
20
Bend Sinister
A really good pitch that features a stout start and a technical sequence to surmount the flowstone.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
21
Plyometrically Speaking
One for wood merchants. Good climbing.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7b+
22
The Blandford Weasel
A miniature grit arete with wicked moves just to the left of the ivy sheet. Lower off at the third bolt.
3 user comments
 
Strong
7b
23
The Fibonacci Sequence
Climb direct up the arete right of Stompin' with Bez to a desperate move to gain the layaway on Stompin' with Bez, finish over...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
7c+