Adjacent Areas
< The Ditch | The New Cuttings - Right >
Boulder
Morning sun
Level
5 minsA great little crag that is almost always in condition and has a good set of short and technical routes in both the higher and lower grades. Some of the harder lines have boulder-problem starts that are often climbed/attempted in their own right and makes the grading of the lines slightly awkward. The crag is very sheltered, being well away from the sea and gets sun from early in the day. To the left of the route Subyouth the cliff falls away in height and has been developed as a good bouldering venue. Guidebook page 228.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Phat Traverse 6m. A fine, fingery traverse from The Fat Controller to the ledge left of Phats and Bigs. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | V2 |
2 |
The Fat Controller 6m. The technical blind crack. | Technical | V3 |
3 |
Phat Slapper 6m. A tight eliminate just left of Pastoral, not touching the crack. Very dynamic. 8 user comments | 1 Stars Strong Crimpy | V6 |
4 |
Pastoral 6m. A SDS can be added but there is no real increase in grade. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong | V8 |
5 |
Descent Horizon 6m. The corner crack. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | V3 |
6 |
White Baron 6m. A low start. A V6 variation breaks right at the sloper at head-height. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | V5 |
7 |
White Baron Left 6m. The left-hand side of the arete with a committing move near the top. There is also a harder low start at V7. | Technical Fluttery | V5 |
8 |
Gunpowder Plot 6m. A very good problem. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | V5 |
9 |
Guy Fawkes 6m. The direct start to Gunpowder Plot, from a low jug, past two hideous crimps. Now harder since loss of holds. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Strong Crimpy | V10 |
10 |
Firestarter 6m. An extended boulder problem left from the pocket on Subyouth. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | V6 |
11 |
Subyouth A hard and height-dependant start is followed by a pause at the break and a final heave over the roof. High in the grade. 18 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Strong | 7b+ |
12 |
Flowers on the Razor Wire Climb the thin corner with difficulty and then take the roof and wall above via a troublesome sequence past a good hidden hold. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Strong | 6c |
13 |
Nu Skool 6m. An eliminate up the centre of the right wall starting from the pocket on Stompin' using the right arete and side-pulls on... 3 user comments | 1 Stars | V6 |
14 |
Stompin' with Bez A hideously hard and bouldery start (V8 ) to a steep finish through the capping roof. It can be started direct by dynoing to... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Strong | 7c |
15 |
The Fibonacci Sequence Climb direct up the arete right of Stompin' with Bez to a desperate move to gain the layaway on Stompin' with Bez, finish over... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 7c+ |
16 |
Lats, Babes and Bolts The flowstone pocked wall is both fingery and reachy. Finish over the roof as for The Fibonacci Sequence. The first 3m is V8. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | 7b+ |
17 |
Razorface 6m. A fingery traverse from undercuts on Unworthy to the pocket on Subyouth. Use a high crimp on Lats, .. or go low (easier).... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | V8 |
18 |
Bogus Roof Start up The Unworthy then fly leftwards over the roof. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 7b |
19 |
The Unworthy A cracker. Short but steep, varied and surprisingly pumpy. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 6c |
20 |
The Vulcanites A good alternative first half to The Unworthy. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
21 |
Deadlosski Must Die Unusual and awkward climbing up a layback pod. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
22 |
Leer of Beethoven A very hard sequence from the mid-height undercut. Linking leftwards into Deadlosski Must Die is 7b and the variant using the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong | 7b+ |
23 |
Bunfight at the Portland Corral Climb up the wide layback crack and from its top move up and left to the lower-off at the top of Leer of Beethoven. | 1 Stars | 5+ |
24 |
Nobody Runs for Free 10m. A flowstone ramp. The short arete to the left is V4. 4 user comments | 6b | |
25 |
Buddleia Boulevard Up the left-hand crack behind the tree. | 4+ | |
26 |
Skaterdater Up the right-hand crack. | 4+ | |
27 |
Phats and Bigs 6m. Climb direct up the blank face left of the crack of The Fat Controller. Don't touch the ledge on the left or the undercut... 10 user comments | Technical Crimpy Fluttery | V5 |