Modern Nightmare Area

Adjacent Areas
< Hall of Mirrors Area  |  The Bower >

Sport
Morning sun
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

At the far end of The Cuttings is a large roof-capped corner flanked by some clean walls and aretes. Most of the routes here are in the higher grades, consequently the area is not often busy, however there are a few grade 6s to the left that are worth a look.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Life is Life
A steep and powerful start gains the upper arete.
 
1 Stars
6b
2
Old Buffer
The groove left of Live by the Sword is a varied pitch.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b
3
Live by the Sword
Fine, crimpy wall climbing on the headwall.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
4
Another Notch in the Gun
Good climbing all the way. The first bolt is right of the crack because of suspect rock.
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
5
Figgy Dropwise
Technical moves, but spoilt by the possibility of escape onto Another Notch in the Gun when the going gets tough. Try to keep...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
6
Dusty Fred's Winter Collection
A varied climb which has lost holds at the start and is still a bit loose.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Loose
6c
7
Ectomorph
Move up and left to a ledge and then follow the undercut line left to a crack and finish up it. A wandering line with a big...
 
1 Stars
6a
8
Aperitif
Climb to the first ledge on Ectomorph and continue up the corner to a lower-off.
 5c
9
Unknown Arete
Tackle the square-cut arete above the ledge of Ectomorph.
 7a+
10
The Bournemouth Flyer
Good at bridging? If so, this is the route for you. There is one desperate clip for shorties.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6b
11
Nightmare Scenario
Very sustained and technical, especially on the crux.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
12
Modern Nightmare
The big corner has a hard start and a superb, pumpy finish. High in the grade. The ivy needs stripping back from time to time.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
13
Fighting Torque
A ferocious test-piece with unlikely moves. Possibly 7c+.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
8a
14
Under Duress
A tight, but inescapable line. Start up Fighting Torque and continue direct with some hard moves over the bulge and up the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7c+
15
Shiver Me Timbers
The finger-crack. Loose at the bottom, painful at the top.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
7a
16
Weird Shit, Keep Drilling
Fine climbing on the arete.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
6b+
  • Latest Comments

    For THE CUTTINGS

    Levitation by Proxy
    "A one move wonder, but at least its an interesting one!" 28/May

    Rusty Chubblock Seeks Oil of Lubrication
    "Broke the crux crimp. Sorry. It only crumbled a tiny bit and for a hold on any o..." 28/May

    The Mouth Waters
    "Blind moves (as described above) in damp conditions last week - no onsight but s..." 29/Apr

    Infernal Din
    "The wording seems to have got lost in the latest edition but IMHO the last guide..." 29/Apr

    Under Duress
    "The first of the two crimps on the bulge, (the crystal one,) has broken off. It'..." 31/Dec

    Mindmeld
    "Lost a hold, making the moves past the first bolt slightly harder. Definitely wo..." 04/Jul

    Want Out
    "Agreed Iain, the sequence is hard to work out but there is one there but some wh..." 31/May

    Three Fingers
    "Good to read the other comments, thought route pretty tough n exposed for a 4" 04/May

    Want Out
    "Did this last year. Good route but a lot of faffing to find a workable sequence...." 11/Apr

    Subyouth
    "I was suprised when this got down graded from 7c :/" 03/Feb

    Subyouth
    "v7 into a v6?! how is that only 7b+? when plyometrically is a hard v7 into v1..." 25/Jan

    Streamline
    "I'm not sure that it was climbed sometime ago..." 02/Dec

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