Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
10 minsAbseil
Windy
One of Swanage's busiest trad areas. The climbs are all steep but mostly have reasonable protection and are on well-travelled and solid rock. Guidebook page 406.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Balcony An enjoyable, well-travelled line that features some difficult, but well-protected climbing. Gain the jutting block by moving... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
2 |
Gangway A decent warm up. Climb some rightward-trending flakes to a rest, then follow the ramp to its end and finish straight up. The... 7 user comments | 1 Stars | S |
3 |
Joker Follow the steep groove to an easing, move right and take a thin crack to the top. | VS 5a | |
4 |
Juggler A nice and varied climb with adequate protection. Climb the roof above a narrowing in the ledge, then go direct up the smooth... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E1 5b |
5 |
Stroof Top 50 A route for those who like them short, sharp and well protected. Amble up the lower section and assault the central crack in... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
6 |
Graunchy Grippers Climb direct to an undercut in an overhang. Pull over to a narrow groove and follow it with difficulty to the top. A runner in... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E1 5b |
7 |
Spreadeagle Great gear and superb moves on the upper section make this one a must do. Take a direct line to the roof then pull over into... 16 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
8 |
Back Street Contrasting features define this popular route. Easy climbing leads upwards to a delicate slab, which leads in turn leftwards... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | VS 4c |
9 |
High Street A good route for a first trad lead on solid rock. Good jugs all the way - enjoyable. This is the easiest way out. 6 user comments | 1 Stars | D |
10 |
Station Road Make fingery moves up the wall and past a crack to a ledge on the right. Finish up thin cracks. | HS 4b | |
11 |
Bypass Engaging, varied and well protected. Climb direct up the rounded rib to a prominent left-facing layback flake. 10 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | S |
12 |
Slip Road An improbable-looking line for the grade - well protected and thoroughly enjoyable. Climb a short flake in the front of the... 8 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
13 |
Republic With a runner in Slip Road pull over the bulge move left and go for it up the face of the block. | E2 6a | |