Adjacent Areas
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High Neb offers some superb climbing in a majestic location and, except for sunny summer weekends, it is rarely as busy as the Popular End. There are classics of all grades to go at with some notable test-pieces like High Neb Buttress, Quietus and Old Friends. Guidebook page 118.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Gunter 12m. The bent crack has a heathery exit, placing gear is tricky. 6 user comments | VS 4c | |
2 |
Straight Crack 12m. Follow the straight crack as it gradually widens. Difficulties escalate to a wide and awkward exit. Big gear is useful. 8 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
3 |
Eric's Eliminate 14m. Take the short crack in the flat face and the continuation above. Only spoilt by its proximity to Twisting Crack. 6 user comments | 2 Stars | S 4a |
4 |
Twisting Crack 14m. A fine climb, steep and quite intimidating, but on good holds. Climb the deep groove to the left edge of the big overhang... 9 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | S 4a |
5 |
Kelly's Overhang 16m. An amazing ascent for its day, it still has seasoned Extreme climbers floundering. From Twisting Crack, make awkward moves... 18 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Strong | HVS 5b |
6 |
Mouthpiece 16m. From the top of Inaccessible Slab monkey left across the roof to the 'rest' on Kelly's then finish direct. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5b |
7 |
Inaccessible Slab 6m. Climb the short slab with one tricky move to attain a standing position in the horizontal break. The green groove just to... 3 user comments | Technical | S 4c |
8 |
Inaccessible Crack Direct 14m. Climb the left arete of the recess and the crack above to the foot of the groove. This gives a steep and exciting finish... 5 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
9 |
The Beautician 14m. From Inaccessible Crack, step left above the roof and climb to the break. The right-trending scoop above gives committing... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
10 |
Inaccessible Crack 16m. Devious but also good - double ropes help. Follow the crack sprouting from the right edge of the recess to its end,... 15 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
11 |
Impossible Slab 14m. A steep slab with a worrying finale. Start up the short crack and make hard moves (6a?) to easier ground. Lace the... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E3 5c |
12 |
Eckhard's Chimney 14m. Enter and squirm the overhanging chimney passing the narrowing close to the outside edge. Once above the protruding blocks... | 1 Stars Graunchy | VD |
13 |
Zen Boy ERROR - in guidebook this is mistakenly given E7 5c. The tech grade should read 6c.14m. The left arete of Quietus. Dynamic... | 1 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E7 6c |
14 |
Quietus Top 50 14m. A superb roof climb; high in the grade. Climb the shallow groove direct to ledges below the roof. Place secure runners (so... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
15 |
Norse Corner Climb 16m. An ancient technical test-piece. Pull on to the slab using a rounded pocket then head right under the overlap to where... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | HS 4c |
16 |
Quietus Right-hand 14m. Starting from the large ledge on Norse Corner Climb, make a committing move to reach a wild hand traverse leading out to... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
17 |
Kelly's Variation 14m. A variation start to Norse Corner Climb. Begin at a shallow scoop and climb to the first horizontal break, move left to a... 5 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
18 |
King Kong 12m. Bridge the shallow scoop up to the overhang, and reach over for a good hold then flick into the crucial mantelshelf -... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
19 |
The Logic Book 12m. The blunt arete is fingery and bold, especially for the short who will find it more like 6a. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
20 |
Neb Corner 12m. The big angle on polished holds leads to grass fields. | VD | |
21 |
Cent 12m. The narrow slab right of the corner. Possibly best done with a side-runner at HVS. 3 user comments | Rounded Fluttery | E1 5b |
22 |
Boyd's Crack 12m. The crack right of the corner. It eases with height but becomes awkward to protect. Big boots might also help. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Graunchy | VD |
23 |
Limbo 14m. Start right of the easy break then step left to climb the poorly protected slab above the break. 7 user comments | S 4a | |
24 |
Tango Crack 14m. The straight crack has an awkward initial section but is easier above. 12 user comments | 1 Stars | VD |
25 |
Tango Buttress 14m. A good slab with thin initial moves. Continue past another delicate section, which leads to the curving finishing flake.... 20 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | HS 5a |
26 |
Where did my Tan Go? 14m. Climb just left of the arete to a break, move right and layback the arete. Low in the grade though harder for the short. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5a |
27 |
High Neb Buttress 20m. An ancient classic. Climb the projecting rib under the centre of the buttress to a ledge (hard for the short). Continue... 44 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
28 |
High Neb Buttress Variations 20m. Variations on a theme. Climb the thin crack (crux - hard) to the break. Continue in the same line to the crux of the... 6 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 5a |
29 |
High Neb Edge 20m. Climb the shallow groove just right of the arete (crux) to the horizontal break on the left. Continue up the flake until... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | HVS 5c |
30 |
The Crypt Trip 20m. A fingery and bold route direct up the steep blank wall. Start under the right end of the thin overlap and climb up and... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | E6 6b |
31 |
Old Friends Top 50 18m. One of Stanage's classic E4s gives a bold outing. From the bottom right-hand corner of the face, climb a tiny groove to a... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 5c |
32 |
The Dalesman 22m. The beckoning horizontal break gives a good pumpy pitch with solid jams and runners galore. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
33 |
Mantelshelf Climb 14m. The slabby face 1m right of the corner is climbed by a series of mantelshelf moves. Finish up the shallow groove. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | VD |
34 |
It's a Cracker 12m. The centre of the slabby face has an awkward but well protected move to enter the thin crack. Finish up steeper rock. 6 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4b |
35 |
Sneezy 12m. The right-hand arete of the slab has a tricky little move to pass the overhanging nose. 4 user comments | Technical | HS 5a |
36 |
Typical Grit 10m. Climb the delicate narrow slab on the right-hand side of the bay to easier rock. Poorly protected. 3 user comments | Rounded Fluttery | S 4a |
37 |
High and Wild 14m. Follow Cave Buttress to ledges then launch across the roof by a long reach and a ladder of jugs. Hard for the short. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy | E3 5c |
38 |
Jeepers Creepers 14m. Follow the previous route to the roof then attack the short-lived hanging jamming crack. Definitive E1 for wall rats! 16 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | HVS 5b |
39 |
Cave Buttress 16m. Start just to the left of the cave recess and climb, passing perched flakes with care, to below the overhang. Move right... 7 user comments | 2 Stars | S 4b |
40 |
Cave Buttress Right-hand 12m. Start around to the right of the large fallen blocks and climb the crack and final steep wall on generally good holds. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4b |