High Neb

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Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 mins

High Neb offers some superb climbing in a majestic location and, except for sunny summer weekends, it is rarely as busy as the Popular End. There are classics of all grades to go at with some notable test-pieces like High Neb Buttress, Quietus and Old Friends. Guidebook page 118.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Gunter
12m. The bent crack has a heathery exit, placing gear is tricky.
6 user comments
 VS 4c
2
Straight Crack
12m. Follow the straight crack as it gradually widens. Difficulties escalate to a wide and awkward exit. Big gear is useful.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
3
Eric's Eliminate
14m. Take the short crack in the flat face and the continuation above. Only spoilt by its proximity to Twisting Crack.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4a
4
Twisting Crack
14m. A fine climb, steep and quite intimidating, but on good holds. Climb the deep groove to the left edge of the big overhang...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
S 4a
5
Kelly's Overhang
16m. An amazing ascent for its day, it still has seasoned Extreme climbers floundering. From Twisting Crack, make awkward moves...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
HVS 5b
6
Mouthpiece
16m. From the top of Inaccessible Slab monkey left across the roof to the 'rest' on Kelly's then finish direct.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
7
Inaccessible Slab
6m. Climb the short slab with one tricky move to attain a standing position in the horizontal break. The green groove just to...
3 user comments
 
Technical
S 4c
8
Inaccessible Crack Direct
14m. Climb the left arete of the recess and the crack above to the foot of the groove. This gives a steep and exciting finish...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
9
The Beautician
14m. From Inaccessible Crack, step left above the roof and climb to the break. The right-trending scoop above gives committing...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
10
Inaccessible Crack
16m. Devious but also good - double ropes help. Follow the crack sprouting from the right edge of the recess to its end,...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
11
Impossible Slab
14m. A steep slab with a worrying finale. Start up the short crack and make hard moves (6a?) to easier ground. Lace the...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
12
Eckhard's Chimney
14m. Enter and squirm the overhanging chimney passing the narrowing close to the outside edge. Once above the protruding blocks...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
13
Zen Boy
ERROR - in guidebook this is mistakenly given E7 5c. The tech grade should read 6c.14m. The left arete of Quietus. Dynamic...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E7 6c
14
Quietus Top 50
14m. A superb roof climb; high in the grade. Climb the shallow groove direct to ledges below the roof. Place secure runners (so...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
15
Norse Corner Climb
16m. An ancient technical test-piece. Pull on to the slab using a rounded pocket then head right under the overlap to where...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HS 4c
16
Quietus Right-hand
14m. Starting from the large ledge on Norse Corner Climb, make a committing move to reach a wild hand traverse leading out to...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
17
Kelly's Variation
14m. A variation start to Norse Corner Climb. Begin at a shallow scoop and climb to the first horizontal break, move left to a...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
18
King Kong
12m. Bridge the shallow scoop up to the overhang, and reach over for a good hold then flick into the crucial mantelshelf -...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
19
The Logic Book
12m. The blunt arete is fingery and bold, especially for the short who will find it more like 6a.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
20
Neb Corner
12m. The big angle on polished holds leads to grass fields.
 VD
21
Cent
12m. The narrow slab right of the corner. Possibly best done with a side-runner at HVS.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
22
Boyd's Crack
12m. The crack right of the corner. It eases with height but becomes awkward to protect. Big boots might also help.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
23
Limbo
14m. Start right of the easy break then step left to climb the poorly protected slab above the break.
7 user comments
 S 4a
24
Tango Crack
14m. The straight crack has an awkward initial section but is easier above.
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
25
Tango Buttress
14m. A good slab with thin initial moves. Continue past another delicate section, which leads to the curving finishing flake....
20 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HS 5a
26
Where did my Tan Go?
14m. Climb just left of the arete to a break, move right and layback the arete. Low in the grade though harder for the short.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
27
High Neb Buttress
20m. An ancient classic. Climb the projecting rib under the centre of the buttress to a ledge (hard for the short). Continue...
44 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
28
High Neb Buttress Variations
20m. Variations on a theme. Climb the thin crack (crux - hard) to the break. Continue in the same line to the crux of the...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 5a
29
High Neb Edge
20m. Climb the shallow groove just right of the arete (crux) to the horizontal break on the left. Continue up the flake until...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5c
30
The Crypt Trip
20m. A fingery and bold route direct up the steep blank wall. Start under the right end of the thin overlap and climb up and...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E6 6b
31
Old Friends Top 50
18m. One of Stanage's classic E4s gives a bold outing. From the bottom right-hand corner of the face, climb a tiny groove to a...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 5c
32
The Dalesman
22m. The beckoning horizontal break gives a good pumpy pitch with solid jams and runners galore.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
33
Mantelshelf Climb
14m. The slabby face 1m right of the corner is climbed by a series of mantelshelf moves. Finish up the shallow groove.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
34
It's a Cracker
12m. The centre of the slabby face has an awkward but well protected move to enter the thin crack. Finish up steeper rock.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4b
35
Sneezy
12m. The right-hand arete of the slab has a tricky little move to pass the overhanging nose.
4 user comments
 
Technical
HS 5a
36
Typical Grit
10m. Climb the delicate narrow slab on the right-hand side of the bay to easier rock. Poorly protected.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
S 4a
37
High and Wild
14m. Follow Cave Buttress to ledges then launch across the roof by a long reach and a ladder of jugs. Hard for the short.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E3 5c
38
Jeepers Creepers
14m. Follow the previous route to the roof then attack the short-lived hanging jamming crack. Definitive E1 for wall rats!
16 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
39
Cave Buttress
16m. Start just to the left of the cave recess and climb, passing perched flakes with care, to below the overhang. Move right...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4b
40
Cave Buttress Right-hand
12m. Start around to the right of the large fallen blocks and climb the crack and final steep wall on generally good holds.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE HIGH NEB

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It go..." 23/Jul

    Norse Corner Climb
    "Bit of a tricky start (fell on my back after a slip low down!) that leads into a..." 13/Jun

    Fate
    "I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered ..." 10/May

    Impossible Slab
    "a little confused, i started up beautician and then on the top slab climbed a li..." 27/Apr

    High Neb Buttress Variations
    "I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5..." 24/Apr

    Central Buttress
    "Hardest VS I have ever tried!" 26/Oct

    Central Buttress
    "The topo in the latest guide shows the initial traverse being high up, at the fi..." 12/Oct

    Deuteronomy
    "Bloody awkward and hard work from the off. What appear to be bomber jams or sid..." 28/Sep

    Kelly's Overhang
    "Splendid fun. By Pythonists definition, I did the E1, but I like this sort of t..." 18/Sep

    Cent
    "I used to solo this regularly in the eighties when it was graded VS 5b. Whether ..." 26/Aug

    Icy Crack
    "Gears not that bad. I'll agree it's not brilliant but there's a bomber medium nu..." 13/Aug

    Anniversary Arete
    "A great route, but very easy for E1 and 5B." 09/Aug

    Uno Cracks
    "Looks like a missing block/flake early on has made the start a bit harder." 09/Aug

    Hearsay Crack
    "My 1st outdoor climb, And my 1st E1 climbing route completed. Plz dont down grad..." 04/Jul

    Kelly's Overhang
    "Either the hardest HVS going or a reasonable (although perhaps bottom end E1). ..." 06/Jun

    Fate
    "its down as the eaisest E2 in the graded list which it definatly isn't hard move..." 11/May

    Titanic Direct
    "An excellent route, 5a all the way and varied, with a delecate first section, a ..." 29/Mar

    Hardly Hyperkeratosis
    "Great stuff!" 22/Mar

    Lusitania
    "Went to do all the Starred routes under HS in the BMC guide at Stanage today. T..." 19/Mar

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