Old Faithful Area

Adjacent Areas
< Lightning Wall Area  |  Behemoth Area >

Trad
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

A fantastic section of the Boulder Ruckle which is peppered with some awesome lines that have climbing and atmosphere to match.
Tides - The boulders at the base are non-tidal, but keep away in rough seas, when getting along the crag base becomes difficult.
Approach - Walk west from the lighthouse to 17 fence posts after the first stone wall passed on the coast path. A small path leads straight down to a large tubular Old Faithful abseil stake (with back up). The abseil ends at a large fin-backed boulder. All routes finish at stake belays. The remains of the original Old Faithful stake is still visible, flattened down to grass level.
a Restriction (all routes) - No climbing from 1st March to 31st July due to nesting birds.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
October Lady
Start at a small corner, 15m left of the huge block sat under the roof. Unusually thuggy climbing.1) 4c, 15m. Climb the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
2
Ice Queen
An excellent direct start to October Lady, starting 8m further right. Climb the bottom bulging rib with difficulty (2 pegs) to...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5
3
Sun King
Start on the left of a massive block in an alcove. Climb direct to a crack (on Jasper) then make a hard swing left on the lip...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4
4
Jasper
Two very different pitches - the first strenuous and the second more balancy and requiring good route finding. Possibly best...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
5
Via Concordia
A direct route on good rock. Start at the right side of the massive block that Jasper climbs, 10m west of Old Faithful. Climb...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2
6
Big Bertha
The first pitch is very gritstone-like, and is good in its own right. Start 2m west of Old Faithful.1) 5b, 15m. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2
7
Old Faithful
The abseil line is the safest escape, and also a worthy route.1) 4b, 14m. Climb the crack above the fin-backed boulder to...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS
8
Baker's Dozen
A wandering but very worthwhile couple of pitches on good rock with good protection. Start as for Old Faithful.1) 4c, 14m....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
9
Argo
A thin and poorly protected start, but good climbing above, and the top pitch is stunning.1) 5a, 16m. Climb over a fingery...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
10
The Golden Fleece
A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear when you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner,...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS
11
Moose's Tooth
A good, but much harder way up the buttress. High in the grade.1) 5b, 18m. Start as for Golden Fleece, but break right...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3