Old Faithful Area

Adjacent Areas
< Lightning Wall Area - Right  |  Behemoth Area >

Trad
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Restricted Access

A fantastic section of the Boulder Ruckle which is peppered with some awesome lines that have climbing and atmosphere to match.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
October Lady
Start at a small corner, 15m left of the huge block sat under the roof. Unusually thuggy climbing.1) 4c, 15m. Climb the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
2
Ice Queen
An excellent direct start to October Lady, starting 8m further right. Climb the bottom bulging rib with difficulty (2 pegs) to...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
3
Sun King
Start on the left of a massive block in an alcove. Climb direct to a crack (on Jasper) then make a hard swing left on the lip...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
4
Jasper
Two very different pitches - the first strenuous and the second more balancy and requiring good route finding. Possibly best...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 4c
5
Via Concordia
A direct route on good rock. Start at the right side of the massive block that Jasper climbs, 10m west of Old Faithful. Climb...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
6
Big Bertha
The first pitch is very gritstone-like, and is good in its own right. Start 2m west of Old Faithful.1) 5b, 15m. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
7
Old Faithful Top 50
The abseil line is the safest escape, and also a worthy route.1) 4b, 14m. Climb the crack above the fin-backed boulder to a...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
8
Baker's Dozen
A wandering but very worthwhile couple of pitches on good rock with good protection. Start as for Old Faithful.1) 4c, 14m....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
9
Argo
A thin and poorly protected start, but good climbing above, and the top pitch is stunning.1) 5a, 16m. Climb over a fingery...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
10
The Golden Fleece
A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear when you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner,...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
11
Moose's Tooth
A good, but much harder way up the buttress. High in the grade.1) 5b, 18m. Start as for Golden Fleece, but break right...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For BOULDER RUCKLE

    Snowdrop
    "Did this again yesterday. No stake at the top (used a rock belay and the stake ..." 25/Aug

    Jo
    "I've only just started getting into Swanage HVS and thought that this was a fant..." 25/May top50

    Old Faithful
    "Lovely route, and very steep - my second dropped a karabiner from the very last ..." 18/Aug top50

    Finale Groove
    "Just as good as I remember" 25/Jul top50

    The Grim Reaper
    "Had an epic on P2 after Mark led P1 to the rightly described scary stance. After..." 11/Jun

    Jericho Groove
    "Good little route well worth doing" 28/Oct

    Sun King
    "Good technical climbing but nothing really hard, just quite balancey. Fairly bo..." 19/Sep

    Mother Africa
    "quite a committing series of moves to get on the ledge, gain the crack and then ..." 17/Jul top50

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