Old Faithful Area

Adjacent Areas
< Lightning Wall Area - Right  |  Behemoth Area >

Lots of sun!
10 mins
Up and Down
Restricted Access

A fantastic section of the Boulder Ruckle which is peppered with some awesome lines that have climbing and atmosphere to match.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
October Lady
Start at a small corner, 15m left of the huge block sat under the roof. Unusually thuggy climbing.1) 4c, 15m. Climb the...
3 user comments
2 Stars
E1 5b
Ice Queen
An excellent direct start to October Lady, starting 8m further right. Climb the bottom bulging rib with difficulty (2 pegs) to...
2 Stars
E5 6a
Sun King
Start on the left of a massive block in an alcove. Climb direct to a crack (on Jasper) then make a hard swing left on the lip...
1 user comment
1 Stars
E4 6a
Two very different pitches - the first strenuous and the second more balancy and requiring good route finding. Possibly best...
3 user comments
1 Stars
HVS 4c
Via Concordia
A direct route on good rock. Start at the right side of the massive block that Jasper climbs, 10m west of Old Faithful. Climb...
1 Stars
E2 5b
Big Bertha
The first pitch is very gritstone-like, and is good in its own right. Start 2m west of Old Faithful.1) 5b, 15m. Climb the...
1 Stars
E2 5c
Old Faithful Top 50
The abseil line is the safest escape, and also a worthy route.1) 4b, 14m. Climb the crack above the fin-backed boulder to a...
6 user comments
2 Stars
VS 4c
Baker's Dozen
A wandering but very worthwhile couple of pitches on good rock with good protection. Start as for Old Faithful.1) 4c, 14m....
1 Stars
VS 4c
A thin and poorly protected start, but good climbing above, and the top pitch is stunning.1) 5a, 16m. Climb over a fingery...
4 user comments
2 Stars
HVS 5a
The Golden Fleece
A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear when you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner,...
5 user comments
2 Stars
HVS 5a
Moose's Tooth
A good, but much harder way up the buttress. High in the grade.1) 5b, 18m. Start as for Golden Fleece, but break right...
3 user comments
2 Stars
E3 6a
  • Latest Comments


    "I've only just started getting into Swanage HVS and thought that this was a fant..." 25/May top50

    Old Faithful
    "Lovely route, and very steep - my second dropped a karabiner from the very last ..." 18/Aug top50

    Finale Groove
    "Just as good as I remember" 25/Jul top50

    The Grim Reaper
    "Had an epic on P2 after Mark led P1 to the rightly described scary stance. After..." 11/Jun

    Jericho Groove
    "Good little route well worth doing" 28/Oct

    Sun King
    "Good technical climbing but nothing really hard, just quite balancey. Fairly bo..." 19/Sep

    Mother Africa
    "quite a committing series of moves to get on the ledge, gain the crack and then ..." 17/Jul top50

    Finale Groove
    "What a great route, somewhat intimidating but once you get on it the holds keep ..." 07/Apr top50

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