Main Face - Right

Adjacent Areas
< Main Face - Centre  |  Right Wing >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

If anything, the right-hand side of the Main Face is even better than the Darius area. The routes start with the friendly Original Route but after that there is nothing to offer but Black Spots. It is all top-notch pocket-pulling - often bold, often technical, mostly on perfect rock and always in a splendid position. After graduating from the classics of the central face, Yankee Power, Supersonic and Bastille provide a worthy trio of ticks for any climbing career.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Original Route Top 50
A right of passage for HVS leaders - the exposure of the huge face is well felt, a great experience at the grade. Start on...
23 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
2
Tales of Yankee Power
The perfect introduction to the E5 grade and on the perfect cliff. Spicy, but safe with a bit of Buoux thrown in. Climb direct...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
3
Flaky Wall Top 50
Another fine route, tracing the easiest line up the shield. Immaculate rock, good protection, a hands-off rest and some...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
4
Reproduction
High quality climbing up a tenuous line on the blank wall left of Flaky Wall, with spaced protection and a lonely feel. Move...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
5
Supersonic
Outstanding face-climbing, continuously interesting with the two hard sections linked by superb moves. All this, plus...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
6
My New Hat
The hardest route up the shield which, despite the bolts, could barely be described as a sport route. It may not have been...
 
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6c
7
Bastille
One of the best hard routes in the country with a technical crux, a bold groove and a sting in the tail. Although the crux is...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
8
Tumbril
Largely forgotten since the best climbing is also taken by Decadence and the start is serious. Start left of Decadence, below...
 
Fluttery
E5 6a
9
The Passion Wagon
A worthwhile route but never likely to become popular. It has been given 7b but it isn't really a sport route. Start as for...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E5 6b
10
The Pillar
A good introduction to the grade, lacking the big feel of the classic routes of the Main Face, but requiring a deal of care...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6a
11
Pillar Direct
An interesting climb which provides a few entertaining moments. Despite the lower E grade, it is only slightly easier than the...
 
1 Stars
Loose
E4 6a
12
Cathy Come Home
Start right of the overhang of Pillar. Climb the wall to a groove (peg), continue to a slab which leads to a belay.
 E1 5b
13
The Unoriginal Route
36m. A poor, chipped eliminate left of Original Route which has had its (crucial) fixed gear removed. Follow Original route on...
 E5 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For HIGH TOR

    Memories
    "Perhaps the best route of its grade on Peak Limestone?" 05/May

    Original Route
    "Six years on, I wonder how much that 20kg block is worth now Jon?" 20/Jul top50

    No Entry
    "Backed off the committing hard pull off the ledge as the rock with your first ge..." 01/Jul

    Still Searching
    "Appears that some rock has come off just below the small sapling making it a bit..." 24/Aug

    Dutch Moon
    "Good rock + moves if you stay on line" 27/Jun

    Prejudice
    "This is a great little trad route. I agree care is needed with protection - whic..." 20/Jun

    Robert Brown
    "Did this first back in the early 80's and found the gear very low down and not i..." 15/Dec

    Prejudice
    "The climbing is not difficult but getting solid protection throughout requires ..." 07/Dec

    M1
    "did this a couope of weeks before Andy and agree with his comments. This route ..." 02/Aug

    M1
    "Gear is fine. Insitu gear is rubbish but not needed at all as it is easy to back..." 23/Jul

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