Adjacent Areas
< Main Face - Centre | Right Wing >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 minsWindy
If anything, the right-hand side of the Main Face is even better than the Darius area. The routes start with the friendly Original Route but after that there is nothing to offer but Black Spots. It is all top-notch pocket-pulling - often bold, often technical, mostly on perfect rock and always in a splendid position. After graduating from the classics of the central face, Yankee Power, Supersonic and Bastille provide a worthy trio of ticks for any climbing career. Guidebook page 356.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Original Route Top 50 A right of passage for HVS leaders - the exposure of the huge face is well felt, a great experience at the grade. Start on... 22 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
2 |
Tales of Yankee Power The perfect introduction to the E5 grade and on the perfect cliff. Spicy, but safe with a bit of Buoux thrown in. Climb direct... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
3 |
Flaky Wall Top 50 Another fine route, tracing the easiest line up the shield. Immaculate rock, good protection, a hands-off rest and some... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
4 |
Reproduction High quality climbing up a tenuous line on the blank wall left of Flaky Wall, with spaced protection and a lonely feel. Move... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
5 |
Supersonic Outstanding face-climbing, continuously interesting with the two hard sections linked by superb moves. All this, plus... 10 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
6 |
My New Hat The hardest route up the shield which, despite the bolts, could barely be described as a sport route. It may not have been... | Technical Crimpy | E6 6c |
7 |
Bastille One of the best hard routes in the country with a technical crux, a bold groove and a sting in the tail. Although the crux is... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
8 |
Tumbril Largely forgotten since the best climbing is also taken by Decadence and the start is serious. Start left of Decadence, below... | Fluttery | E5 6a |
9 |
The Passion Wagon A worthwhile route but never likely to become popular. It has been given 7b but it isn't really a sport route. Start as for... | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E5 6b |
10 |
The Pillar A good introduction to the grade, lacking the big feel of the classic routes of the Main Face, but requiring a deal of care... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery Loose | E5 6a |
11 |
Pillar Direct An interesting climb which provides a few entertaining moments. Despite the lower E grade, it is only slightly easier than the... | 1 Stars Loose | E4 6a |
12 |
Cathy Come Home Start right of the overhang of Pillar. Climb the wall to a groove (peg), continue to a slab which leads to a belay. | E1 5b | |
13 |
The Unoriginal Route 36m. A poor, chipped eliminate left of Original Route which has had its (crucial) fixed gear removed. Follow Original route on... | E5 6a | |