Adjacent Areas
< Rubicon Left | Moat Buttress >
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Level
5 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
The right-hand side of Rubicon Wall is probably more popular these days with boulderers particularly on the fine technical climbing around The Press. The routes on this section tend to be extended boulder problems anyway with most of the hard climbing low down, before the first break. Around the big Rubicon roof, the bouldering remains on the lower band, whilst the routes launch themselves up and outwards into some very steep territory. Guidebook page 240.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Last But Not Least The wall just right of the first big tree. A short, reachy bulge at the top provides the main difficulties. | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | 7a |
2 |
The Pinch Test The upper wall to the left of The Angler. A desperate and frustrating boulder problem on poor pinches provides the... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7c+ |
3 |
The Angler A desperate one-move problem. Climb direct to a ledge just right of the ivy. Somehow use tiny holds to gain a flake above (peg... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | E6 6c |
4 |
The Wimp Take The Sissy to the fourth bolt, then move over left and up into The Angler to finish. Some gear is needed for the top. | 1 Stars Technical | 7c |
5 |
The Sissy Typical of Rubicon; short, hard and becoming harder as bits drop off. The difficulties are confined to the steep middle section... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 8a |
6 |
Zeke the Freak A classic product of the 1980s which has held its grade in spite/because of various snapping holds. The middle section around... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8b |
7 |
The Bastard The tiniest of fingery holds and a hard section packed into a few intense metres gives the ultimate Rubicon route (only two... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8c+ |
8 |
Truly Awesome A little brother to the main route to the right. Despite the name, it's not as good, but still worthwhile. The route has also... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 7a+ |
9 |
Rubicon Excellent roof climbing up the main line of the roof, which is more of a sprint than a marathon. Scramble up to the ledge then... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | 7a |
10 |
Zeitgeist A harder version of Rubicon, with more bolts than you can usually clip. More independent than it looks, but still a bit of... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy Strong | 7b |
11 |
No Jug, No Thug A wild traverse above the hard routes on mostly fixed gear (7b-ish). Climb Rubicon (belay) then traverse the break left to the... | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E5 6b |
12 |
The Bomb is Coming More fun roof climbing. Run up the lower wall to the break then blast across it with a testing snatchy move at the end. | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7a |
13 |
Toenail Pie Start up The Bomb but break right and follow the easiest line through the roof to the right (1 peg). Finish in the trees. 1 user comment | Strong | E2 5b |
14 |
Small but Perfectly Formed The small overhanging prow with two bolts. Jump off onto the second bolt after gaining the jug above it. | 7a+ | |
15 |
Sperm Worm 16m. Lost under the ivy. The upper section followed a flake above the mid-height ledge. | Loose | E5 6a |
16 |
Dumb Animal 16m. Lost under the ivy. The upper section trended right from the ledge on Sperm Worm. | Loose | E5 6a |
17 |
Debris 10m. Dreadful climbing through the steep diagonal groove on the right-hand side of the roof. Ignore. | Loose | E4 5c |
18 |
Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird 5m. Steep crack 10m right of the main cave. | Technical | E3 6c |