Rubicon Right

Adjacent Areas
< Rubicon Left  |  Moat Buttress >

Trad and Sport
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Level
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The right-hand side of Rubicon Wall is probably more popular these days with boulderers particularly on the fine technical climbing around The Press. The routes on this section tend to be extended boulder problems anyway with most of the hard climbing low down, before the first break. Around the big Rubicon roof, the bouldering remains on the lower band, whilst the routes launch themselves up and outwards into some very steep territory.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Last But Not Least
The wall just right of the first big tree. A short, reachy bulge at the top provides the main difficulties.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
2
The Pinch Test
The upper wall to the left of The Angler. A desperate and frustrating boulder problem on poor pinches provides the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
3
The Angler
A desperate one-move problem. Climb direct to a ledge just right of the ivy. Somehow use tiny holds to gain a flake above (peg...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
4
The Wimp
Take The Sissy to the fourth bolt, then move over left and up into The Angler to finish. Some gear is needed for the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
5
The Sissy
Typical of Rubicon; short, hard and becoming harder as bits drop off. The difficulties are confined to the steep middle section...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
6
Zeke the Freak
A classic product of the 1980s which has held its grade in spite/because of various snapping holds. The middle section around...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b
7
The Bastard
The tiniest of fingery holds and a hard section packed into a few intense metres gives the ultimate Rubicon route (only two...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8c+
8
Truly Awesome
A little brother to the main route to the right. Despite the name, it's not as good, but still worthwhile. The route has also...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a+
9
Rubicon
Excellent roof climbing up the main line of the roof, which is more of a sprint than a marathon. Scramble up to the ledge then...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a
10
Zeitgeist
A harder version of Rubicon, with more bolts than you can usually clip. More independent than it looks, but still a bit of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b
11
No Jug, No Thug
A wild traverse above the hard routes on mostly fixed gear (7b-ish). Climb Rubicon (belay) then traverse the break left to the...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5
12
Cruising the Seven Seas
Keep going from No Jug, No Thug at break level, crossing The Angler and finishing at Last but not Least.
 
1 Stars
E6
13
The Bomb is Coming
More fun roof climbing. Run up the lower wall to the break then blast across it with a testing snatchy move at the end.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a
14
Toenail Pie
Start up The Bomb but break right and follow the easiest line through the roof to the right (1 peg). Finish in the trees.
1 user comment
 
Strong
E2
15
Small but Perfectly Formed
The small overhanging prow with two bolts. Jump off onto the second bolt after gaining the jug above it.
 7a+
16
Sperm Worm
16m. Lost under the ivy. The upper section followed a flake above the mid-height ledge.
 
Loose
E5 6a
17
Dumb Animal
16m. Lost under the ivy. The upper section trended right from the ledge on Sperm Worm.
 
Loose
E5 6a
18
Debris
10m. Dreadful climbing through the steep diagonal groove on the right-hand side of the roof. Ignore.
 
Loose
E4 5c
19
Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
5m. Steep crack 10m right of the main cave.
 
Technical
E3 6c