Rubicon Right

Adjacent Areas
< Rubicon Left  |  Moat Buttress >

Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
5 mins
Level
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The right-hand side of Rubicon Wall is probably more popular these days with boulderers particularly on the fine technical climbing around The Press. The routes on this section tend to be extended boulder problems anyway with most of the hard climbing low down, before the first break. Around the big Rubicon roof, the bouldering remains on the lower band, whilst the routes launch themselves up and outwards into some very steep territory. Guidebook page 240.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Last But Not Least
The wall just right of the first big tree. A short, reachy bulge at the top provides the main difficulties.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a
2
The Pinch Test
The upper wall to the left of The Angler. A desperate and frustrating boulder problem on poor pinches provides the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
3
The Angler
A desperate one-move problem. Climb direct to a ledge just right of the ivy. Somehow use tiny holds to gain a flake above (peg...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6c
4
The Wimp
Take The Sissy to the fourth bolt, then move over left and up into The Angler to finish. Some gear is needed for the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
5
The Sissy
Typical of Rubicon; short, hard and becoming harder as bits drop off. The difficulties are confined to the steep middle section...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
6
Zeke the Freak
A classic product of the 1980s which has held its grade in spite/because of various snapping holds. The middle section around...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8b
7
The Bastard
The tiniest of fingery holds and a hard section packed into a few intense metres gives the ultimate Rubicon route (only two...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8c+
8
Truly Awesome
A little brother to the main route to the right. Despite the name, it's not as good, but still worthwhile. The route has also...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a+
9
Rubicon
Excellent roof climbing up the main line of the roof, which is more of a sprint than a marathon. Scramble up to the ledge then...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a
10
Zeitgeist
A harder version of Rubicon, with more bolts than you can usually clip. More independent than it looks, but still a bit of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7b
11
No Jug, No Thug
A wild traverse above the hard routes on mostly fixed gear (7b-ish). Climb Rubicon (belay) then traverse the break left to the...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
12
The Bomb is Coming
More fun roof climbing. Run up the lower wall to the break then blast across it with a testing snatchy move at the end.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
13
Toenail Pie
Start up The Bomb but break right and follow the easiest line through the roof to the right (1 peg). Finish in the trees.
1 user comment
 
Strong
E2 5b
14
Small but Perfectly Formed
The small overhanging prow with two bolts. Jump off onto the second bolt after gaining the jug above it.
 7a+
15
Sperm Worm
16m. Lost under the ivy. The upper section followed a flake above the mid-height ledge.
 
Loose
E5 6a
16
Dumb Animal
16m. Lost under the ivy. The upper section trended right from the ledge on Sperm Worm.
 
Loose
E5 6a
17
Debris
10m. Dreadful climbing through the steep diagonal groove on the right-hand side of the roof. Ignore.
 
Loose
E4 5c
18
Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
5m. Steep crack 10m right of the main cave.
 
Technical
E3 6c
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

    Fledgling Flakes
    "Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

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