Behemoth Area

Adjacent Areas
< Old Faithful Area  |  Airy Legs Area >

Trad
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

The left-hand side of this area is a tall and steep section of the cliff that has some striking lines and is home to one of the best HVSs around - Behemoth - plus a few other gems worth seeking out. The right-hand side has harder climbs and is less frequented.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Behemoth Top 50
A well protected classic with a sensational top pitch. It follows the steep corner 30m right of Old Faithful (looking...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
2
Soul Sacrifice Top 50
A brilliant pitch up the centre of the soaring face. It has good gear but is strenuous and sustained. Start up the crack of...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5b
3
On Life's Edge
Bold climbing up the rib perched above the zawn.1) 6a, 18m. Hard moves lead over the bulge (peg). Continue up the front...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
4
White Horse
A big, atmospheric line that follows the right-bounding fissure above the small zawn. The start is sometimes damp and needs...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
5
Dublin Packet
The start of this route needs a low tide and a calm sea.1) 4c. Start on a ledge on the left side (looking out) of White...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
6
Kingdom Come
The hanging prow. Start at dead low spring tide on the boulders right of the trench. Climb vague cracks to a break below the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
7
Anger is an Energy
A bold face climb starting 10m right of the fissure of White Horse (looking in).1) 6b, 12m. Climb the centre of the smooth...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
8
Sparky
Climb the centre of the broad pillar (left of Let the Punka Burn) past a thread on the right to a very committing last move for...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
9
Let the Punka Burn
A good technical first pitch.1) 6a, 12m. Climb a thin crack, just right of a slight buttress, to the fault-line and a belay...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
10
Too Precious
A superb but serious direct line up the blank face, starting 5m right of Let the Punka Burn, with a possible 'desmond' from...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
11
Prudence
The obvious line on the left-hand side of the bay.1) 4c, 14m. Climb the right-hand crack out of a small cave to the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
12
Ganymede
Another good route taking the crack on the right of the bay.1) 5a, 18m. Follow the crack to the fault-line. Move left then...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For BOULDER RUCKLE

    Snowdrop
    "Did this again yesterday. No stake at the top (used a rock belay and the stake ..." 25/Aug

    Jo
    "I've only just started getting into Swanage HVS and thought that this was a fant..." 25/May top50

    Old Faithful
    "Lovely route, and very steep - my second dropped a karabiner from the very last ..." 18/Aug top50

    Finale Groove
    "Just as good as I remember" 25/Jul top50

    The Grim Reaper
    "Had an epic on P2 after Mark led P1 to the rightly described scary stance. After..." 11/Jun

    Jericho Groove
    "Good little route well worth doing" 28/Oct

    Sun King
    "Good technical climbing but nothing really hard, just quite balancey. Fairly bo..." 19/Sep

    Mother Africa
    "quite a committing series of moves to get on the ledge, gain the crack and then ..." 17/Jul top50

    Finale Groove
    "What a great route, somewhat intimidating but once you get on it the holds keep ..." 07/Apr top50

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