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Sport

Lots of sun!

Level

8 mins

The lower section of wall to the left of the Main Wall all the way to the large earth apron of Chocolate Blancmange Gully has been intensely developed with routes. Many of them have been excavated and consequently can be a bit dirty but they are cleaning up with traffic. Guidebook page 76.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Out of Africa The wall left of the arete, avoiding the crack.		6b+
2	Madagascar Climb a short groove to tricky moves left to the arete. Nice rock. 1 user comment		6b
3	Bird Island 1) 6a, 16m. The left wall of the corner. Lower off or move right.2) 6a, 15m. The exposed upper arete has some loose rock.	1 Stars Loose	6a
4	Seychelles The steep wall and crack running to and through the roof.	Reachy Crimpy	6b
5	Rainbow Warrior Climb the slab leftwards to the overlap. 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	6c
6	Weakend Warrior Up the blunt arete.	Loose	6b
7	Sam in Your Eye The yellow wall left of a crack.	Loose	6a+
8	During the War The wide awkward crack in the left-wall of the corner.	1 Stars Graunchy	6a+
9	Before the War The long and heavily-cleaned corner.		5
10	Sahara This is the well-cleaned arete to the right of the corner.	Loose	6c
11	Union Jack This is the right-hand of the two massively-excavated corners. There are a couple of stray bolts low down on this one.	Loose	5
12	African't The narrow wall to a high crux.		6b+
13	Desperate Dan The long crack-line to the right - the first out of the corner.		6b
14	Fine and Dandy Weave up the wall, starting past a big white flake. Loose.	Loose	6b
15	African A better route up the thin cracks to a tricky upper bulge.		6a+
16	Bloodguard The left-hand side of the arete, starting from a mound. The third clip is a touch scary. 1 user comment	Fluttery	6c+
17	Grab Your Mandrakes From the ledge above the mound, climb the right-hand side of the arete to the overhang and then the face above.		6b
18	Tirfin USA Up the groove to an awkward traverse right which reaches good holds. Finish more easily. The link left is Tirfin Mandrakes,... 2 user comments		6a+
19	Tirf's High A direct start to Tirfin USA up the wall on the right. 2 user comments		6a+
20	Race of the Freuds The thin crack through an overlap leads to an easier finish.		6b+
21	Peckling Fever The short wall, crack and overlap leads to slabby rock. 2 user comments		5+
22	Senter Home The rampline with a small overlap at half-height, and a choice of finishes - although the central one is the best, with a... 3 user comments		6a
23	Tirfer Off Balance straight up a shallow groove to the right of a ramp. 2 user comments		6a
24	Maillon Sunday From the top of the blocks, pleasant climbing leads up the wall. Make a hard loop out right and back left onto easier ground. 1 user comment	1 Stars	6b
25	Bootiful Bernard Matthews Climb the narrow face past the diagonal overlap to a crack.	1 Stars	6b
26	Foul's Bane The narrow right-hand wall of the first shallow groove has some nice moves. Climbing the corner direct (separate bolts) is Nowt... 1 user comment		6a+
27	Drool Rock Worm Climb left of the borehole to a lower-off under the tree.		6b
28	Stone Throat The route right of the borehole has a sloping start and a hard finish. Finishing just right (left hand in the borehole) is...	1 Stars Rounded	6b
29	Slay the Gray The next narrow pillar taken direct.		6b
30	Mr. Cellulite's Arete The white and grey arete. 2 user comments	Reachy	6a+
31	Bandolier Up a long right-facing groove-line. Eases with height. 4 user comments	Pumpy	6a
32	Underslung A tricky start leads to pumpier climbing above.	Pumpy	6b+
33	The Little Thin Mexican across the Border The wall left of a short arete. 3 user comments	1 Stars	6b
34	Desperate Measures The wall and right-hand side of arete to the same finish. 1 user comment		6b+
35	The Mexican takes Lexicon The once-tottery wall has cleaned up and gives a nice pitch. 1 user comment	1 Stars	6a+
36	Exceeding the Speed Limit Weave through the overhangs towards the top. 2 user comments		6b
37	Mind Your Head The fractured wall through an overlap. Exit left to Exceeding...		6b+
38	Desperate Housewives Climb the narrow groove. 1 user comment		6a
39	Collared Climb the flat face right of the left-facing groove.	1 Stars	6a
40	Spare Rib A route that skirts the left edge of the orange section.		6b
41	Eddie McStiff A shallow groove-line that finishes up and left on easier ground. 1 user comment		6a+
42	Pelvic Thrust The right-hand side of the orange section up a groove. 3 user comments		6b
43	The Hippy, Hippy Shakes Yet another long, shallow groove leads to a high belay. Care needed with the rock towards the top.	Loose	6a+
44	Due Care and Attention Climb the groove to the top on spaced bolts. Polished. 8 user comments		6a+
45	Any Old Iron Interesting moves and is (a bit) better than it looks. Taking the arete direct is around 6a+. 2 user comments		6a
46	Sunday Sport Climb the well-bolted groove. Low in the grade. 5 user comments	1 Stars	6b
47	Austin Powers The arete and shallow groove to its right. Sustained at the bottom and some poor rock higher up. 5 user comments	Loose	6b+
48	The Big Fat Texan on the Corner The centre of the wall left of the big corner. Originally it was climbed direct, but now holds on the right are used. Climbed... 16 user comments	1 Stars	6a
49	He Seems so Sumo The crack on the right starting from a block is sustained, though there is a good mid-height rest. Recently extended. 2 user comments		6a
50	Olive Oil The juggy wall left of the big corner to an awkward exit. 2 user comments		6a
51	Removal Man The big corner has spaced bolts, some gear might help. 3 user comments		4+
52	Some People A steep crack right of the corner to a neat finale above the roof. 1 user comment		6b
53	Sag Ponir A short crack just left of the main arete - a one move wonder, mostly on good holds. 3 user comments		5

Left Wall

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