Adjacent Areas
< The Dark Side - Upper Tier | Papacy Buttress >
Trad and Sport
No sun
Uphill
15 minsWindy
To the left of Papacy Buttress, the Upper Tier swings around to face east. At the junction of the faces is an impressive buttress with a set of sport routes on the left, and trad routes on the right. All of these are currently neglected. Guidebook page 107.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
What's the Paint? From the low point of the crag's grassy base a tricky start leads to easier ground. | 5 | |
2 |
Pity the Grafitti A similar line just to the right. | 5 | |
3 |
Set Fred Free The left-hand line has a steep finish. | 6a | |
4 |
Wilky's Revenge The middle line off the ridge is nice enough. | 5+ | |
5 |
Making Plans for Nidge Trend right into the cave then tackle the bulges that form its left-hand side. | 6b | |
6 |
Helzapoppin' Good sustained climbing through the roof of the cave. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
7 |
Right Said Fred The right edge of the cave gives another beefy pitch. | Pumpy | 6b |
8 |
Coyote Club Head up the left edge of the lower wall. Single bolt lower-off. | 6a | |
9 |
Wily E. Coyote Start below and right of the poised block on a grassy ledge. Using a large pocket and sharing cam placements with Road Runner... | E2 5b | |
10 |
Road Runner Start slightly right of Wily E. Coyote. Using the same large pocket climb straight up the face - cams after the first moves.... | E1 5b | |
11 |
Zebedee Start on top of the grassy block and climb left to an overlap. Pass this on the right and move left into a shallow groove which... | VS 4b | |
12 |
Balance of Actions Trend left towards a flake then climb direct up the face above. | HVS 5a | |
13 |
Greensleeves Climb direct from the grassy block and traverse right to a crack which leads to an overhang. Move left to a thin crack and up... | VS 4b | |