College Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< The Dark Side - Long Wall  |  The Lower Tier >

Trad and Sport
Early morning sun
15 mins
Uphill

The far right-hand end of the Dark Side has a decent chunky buttress with some reasonable routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Old Fiends
Climb through the centre of the butch overhang then the centre of the wall above.
 
Technical
6c+
2
Carvery
The crunchy, crystalline crack leads to the contrasting delicate face above. Usually dirty.
 
Technical
6a+
3
The Wrong Unconquerable
The long crack on some odd rock leads to a layback flake finale. It is supposed to be a mirror image of The Left Unconquerable,...
 6b
4
Fartless
A tricky start leads to hard and fingery climbing above.
 
Technical
7a+
5
Strap a Doc to Me
Decent climbing up nice scoopy rock, close to the right-hand edge of the face on the right.
 6c
6
The Gypsy Kings
Balance up the arete to the left of the main buttress.
 
Technical
6c
7
Gooncrack
The crack in the sidewall of the buttress cleaves a high roof. Difficulties are short-lived, but quite intense.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
8
Forfeit of Doom
The left arete of the main buttress has some good moves.
 6b+
9
Meshrug a My Shoulders
Climb the face right of the arete, using the jammed block to pass the roof.
 6b
10
Profitless
Teeter up the face then climb the crack that splits the overlap strenuously. Varied.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
11
Merry Pheasant
Trad climbing up the thin grassy cracks leads to bolder moves then another crack through the overhang.
 E1
12
Moontalk
Nice face-climbing with a hard move in the middle and then again just below the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
13
Frantic Manoeuvres
Balance up the ramp to reach the sanctuary of a ledge. Continue up the short crack (thread) to finish.
 
1 Stars
E2
14
Bonedigger
The thin crack splitting the slab would be a good little route if someone dug all the grass out.
 E1
15
Prefect Day
Climb the pleasant face to harder moves through the overlap and up to the lower-off.
 
1 Stars
6b
16
Silent Sprung
 6b
17
Thirty Nine and a Half Steps
A neglected climb up vegetated steps to a better finish leftwards up the final slab.
 E1
18
White Wind
The final line on the face is nothing special.
 6a