Adjacent Areas
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Guidebook page 216.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Arabian Nights Climb vegetated rock to a peg at a break. Move up left to gain a groove which leads to a tree. Currently covered in ivy. | Loose | E4 6b |
2 |
Sheikh, Rattle 'n Roll Start up Arabian Nights to the break. Climb up to the bulge and pull over - hard. The fixed gear is all a bit old and tatty.... 1 user comment | Technical Strong Loose | 7b |
3 |
Koran Direct A fully bolted route that is hardly ever climbed these days due to the fact it takes a long time to dry out and clean up. 1 user comment | Technical | 7a+ |
4 |
Ayatollah Once a popular warm-up route, but now it is usually wet and dirty and sees little attention. | Technical | 6c+ |
5 |
Barely Decent Originally this started at 7b+ just to the left of the direct start to Indecent Exposure, to join it briefly at the break. A... | Technical Crimpy Loose | 7a+ |
6 |
Hubris 27m. A wild loose rock experience but with reasonable gear low down. Climb the wall past some old pegs to the break. Pull over... | Pumpy Loose | E5 6a |
7 |
Indecent Exposure Top 50 Climb up the awkward bottom wall to the break, then pull over a bulge and continue up a large chalked-up flake. (Stick clip the... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7c |
8 |
Introducing the Hardline According to Terrance Trout An up and down trip across the upper section of the crag. Start up Indecent and belay at the break. Move right into Body... | 7b+ | |
9 |
Body Machine Top 50 A classic route with great moves throughout its full length, and includes a finish which can spit you off. Climb up the... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
10 |
An In and Out of Body Experience An fine extension to Body Machine climbing the wall up and left of the belay to powerful moves around the top roof. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
11 |
Body Builder Climb Body Machine to the big hole in the upper break, then pull up and rightwards and attack the powerful bulge, rejoining... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 8a+ |
12 |
The Prow One of the historic landmark routes of the Peak. The way to climb it these days is in one giant pitch from the ground for an... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a |
13 |
Jehovah Kill A desperate technical exercise up the wall to the right of The Body Machine start. Lower-off at the first break. | 1 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8b+ |
14 |
The Crucifixion Climb The Prow to the base of the final groove, then pull directly over the small roof above and a brief rest then make a big... | 3 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 8a |
15 |
Proud Whore Climb The Prow to the top of the tufa line and then continue straight up past a tricky move to enter the steep groove line... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |
16 |
Brazen Strumpet A complicated and very long (40m) pitch requiring some careful rope work. Start up The Prow to the belay on Revelations then... | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | 8a |
17 |
Revelations A great historic route that still regularly repels attempts. A desperate start (which has got harder over the years) using a... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 8b |
18 |
Rage The significant continuation of Revelations is the true line of the old aid route The Prow. Follow Revelations to the belay... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8b |
19 |
Hubble Climb directly over the bulges below and right of Revelations, moving slightly left above. Another historical landmark, being... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong Crimpy | 8c+ |
20 |
Make It Funky A breach of the lower bulges that packs in a lot of hard climbing. Follow the bulges leftwards to a blank section and the... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Strong | 8c |
21 |
Mega Whore An extension to Make It Funky is a good, but slightly unbalanced, pitch which has never become popular. Climb the original... | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy Crimpy | 8c |
22 |
Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis A fine, historic route from the 80s, which has some stopper moves and regularly repels redpoint attempts. Start in the cave and... | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy Crimpy | 8b+ |
23 |
The Whore of Babylon This was an early attempt to free the aid route Brandenburg Gate which included what is now Hubble and created, briefly, one of... | 8a | |
24 |
Mecca Extension The full version is an incredible stamina test which packs an 8a+ on top of the already desperate 8b+. There is a rest at the... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Crimpy | 8c |
25 |
Hajj Another extension to Mecca, which is slightly harder and more bouldery than the original. Follow Mecca Extension to the good... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8c |
26 |
Kaabah A stunning direct extension to Mecca which avoids the big flake at the belay. At the top of Mecca's groove continue direct up... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 8c+ |
27 |
Evolution Moffatt's last significant route at the Tor was a major achievement in every respect, although it has now been over-shadowed by... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8c+ |
28 |
Mutation The most impressive of McClure's awesome additions to the crag and the current hardest in the Peak. Before the hard span near... | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy Crimpy | 9a |
29 |
Chimes of Freedom One of the more popular hard routes at the Tor. There are several methods to pull around the bottom roof, all are hard and... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
30 |
Major Waddage A superb long extension to Chimes of Freedom. The route misses out the Chimes belay and continues straight up the technical... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8b |
31 |
The Green Alternative The short roof to the right of Chimes shares the same start then pulls up right and through the roof via campus style moves to... | 1 Stars Crimpy | 7c+ |
32 |
Weedkiller A typical Raven Tor boulder problem route. Reaching the roof is tricky but crossing it is another ball game altogether. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 7c+ |
33 |
Rooster Booster (P2) A seldom-climbed pitch which is a little loose in places, however, the position and moves are good. It can be gained by aiding... | 1 Stars Technical Loose | 7c |
34 |
Fowl Play Start up Weedkiller to the belay then climb Rooster Booster (pitch 2 ) to the high break. Pull over the bulge up and leftwards... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8a |
35 |
Jive Turkey A worthwhile pitch with good moves. From the Weedkiller belay, head up and right via a thin flake-line to the break and a rest.... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
36 |
The Missing Link Start up Weedkiller then follow Jive Turkey to the thin break-line. From here climb direct up the snappy black wall above and... | Technical Crimpy | 8a |
37 |
The Exterminator Climb Weedkiller to the belay, then make a short traverse rightwards for about 2m to gain the thin wall and then continue... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8a+ |
38 |
Rooster Crossing A desperate direct start to The Exterminator. Climb through the roof to the right of Weedkiller via grim moves to the thin... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8c |
39 |
Rooster Booster The distinct traverse line left from the start of Sardine gives a powerful and strength-sapping pitch which suits those with... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |
40 |
Sardine Top 50 A classic polished Peak landmark which is still a tough route to onsight. There are a few ways of doing the lower crux and the... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7b+ |
41 |
Tin Of Top 50 Another popular route with the grade causing some debate, some think easier than Sardine, others harder. Follow Sardine to the... 21 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
42 |
Bullet the Blue Sky A hybrid typical of the crag which gains the fun upper wall of Jive Turkey by a long diagonal. Can be done easily on a single... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
43 |
Crumblefish A poor route which sees little attention. It has lost holds and become harder. Span left from the start of Tin Of and climb the... 3 user comments | Reachy Crimpy | 8a |
44 |
Another Toadside Attraction A popular direct on Sardine. Climb directly up from the start, up the short groove via hard moves to gain the ledge on Sardine.... 13 user comments | 2 Stars | 7c |
45 |
In Brine The thin flake to the right of Sardine has an extremely technical and fingery middle section, which is now even harder due to... 12 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | 8a |
46 |
Obscene Gesture The new version of the old traditional route has a slightly different line and is now a popular sport route. Starting... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | 7c |
47 |
Obscene Toilet An excellent direct start to The Toilet. Climb up the flake-line - the original start to Obscene Gesture - then move up until... | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | 7c |
48 |
The Toilet One of the more popular technical routes at the Tor. Climb to the top of the prominent flake then move up and traverse left via... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | 8a |
49 |
The Call of Nature One of the more recent additions to the Tor has become one of the most popular 8a's on the crag. Start up The Toilet to where... | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | 8a |
50 |
Cream Team Special A well-positioned traverse across the main break which gives some wild pumpy climbing and is very scary to second, but rarely... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E5 6b |
51 |
Verbal Abuse A hard and serious trad line which receives no attention these days. Climb a groove to a peg, move up left to another peg and... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E7 6c |
52 |
Ring of Fire A variation start to Hot Flushes, move right at the first bolt via bouldery moves then continue up right to rejoin the... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7c+ |
53 |
Hot Flushes Start up the groove of Verbal Abuse to an undercut jug, then make hard moves rightwards along a series of finger edges almost... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Crimpy | 8a |
54 |
The Flushings Gain Hot Flushes from A Little Extra. 3 user comments | 7b+ | |
55 |
A Little Extra One of the original free routes here. The original grade is for jumping to the starting jug. Starting from the ground... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
56 |
Little Boots Do the start of A Little Extra then swing out right and up with difficulty into Hooligan, then finish more easily up this. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7c |
57 |
Hooligan The thin wall left of Boot Boys has an extremely hard start to gain a good hold then more fingery 8b climbing on tiny holds up... | 1 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8c |
58 |
Cream Tea Special A pointless traverse across Boot Boys to the lower-off on Out of My Tree with one very hard move. | Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
59 |
Boot Boys A desperate technical wall climb which is best suited to those with small fingers and high pain tolerance. Boulder up to a jug... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8a+ |
60 |
Out of My Boots Start as for Boot Boys to the jug and then pull out right to finish up Out of My Tree. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7c |
61 |
Out of My Tree Another painful boulder problem start leads to the break and a jug, then make one more hard pull leftwards to gain the... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8a |
62 |
Dialectics From the jug on Out of My Tree, move up right and then make a few tough moves on sloping holds to gain a lower-off. | 1 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8a+ |
63 |
Pump up the Power Only short but it packs it in. Pull past a pocket to a short groove then make a desperate exit from this to a lower-off. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Strong Crimpy | 8a+ |
64 |
Rattle and Hump Short and sharp. Boulder up to the jug then make a desperate move left. Finish more easily up and right to the ledge. 11 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8a |
65 |
Seraphim The wall to the right of Rattle and Hump has a desperate start on tiny holds and then a marginally easier upper wall. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8b+ |
66 |
Wild in Me A reachy and bouldery start past two flakes leads to a finger rail and then a few tricky pulls on the upper wall to a belay. 8 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7c |
67 |
Super High Intensity Body Building A well-named end to the activities here. Boulder up a flake to a good hold then move right and up the wall to the belay above... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 7a |
68 |
Tomb Raider The central line past 4 bolts. A tricky slab at the bottom leads to powerful moves through the bulge. Easier for the tall. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy | 8a |
69 |
The Ministry of Silly Walks A four pitch traverse across the right-hand side of the crag, starting at the grass ledge above SHIBB and finishing at the top... | E1 5b | |
70 |
Mortal Kombat The left-hand line past 3 bolts. | Technical | 7b+ |
71 |
Gran Tourismo The right-hand line past 3 bolts. | Technical | 7b |
72 |
Saline Drip The wall above the small parking bay. | E5 6b | |
73 |
Culloden This has been re-bolted and is a worthwhile route if you enjoy the short bouldery offerings at Raven Tor. | 2 Stars Technical | 8a+ |