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Sport
Sun and Shade
0 mins
Roadside
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The tallest section of the crag is on the left-hand side beneath the prominent prow. The trio of Indecent, Body Machine and The Prow are the big routes here with each being a superb and a historically significant route. Further left on the scrappy left-hand side, the routes are not in the same class. The centre of the cliff is savagely undercut, a barrier which put off all attempts at free climbing until Moffatt breached it in 1984 with Revelations. Developments since then have almost all been with ground-breaking ascents of major projects, often at a new grade level. The end result is the most concentrated collection of hard routes in the country. This section to the right of this is the training wall. The prolific number of eliminates and combination pitches is a result of endless hours spent by the top climbers working out (often so that they can walk 30m to the left and try a route there).

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Arabian Nights
Climb vegetated rock to a peg at a break. Move up left to gain a groove which leads to a tree. Currently covered in ivy.
 
Loose
E4 6b
2
Sheikh, Rattle 'n Roll
Start up Arabian Nights to the break. Climb up to the bulge and pull over - hard. The fixed gear is all a bit old and tatty....
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
Loose
7b
3
Koran Direct
A fully bolted route that is hardly ever climbed these days due to the fact it takes a long time to dry out and clean up.
1 user comment
 
Technical
7a+
4
Ayatollah
Once a popular warm-up route, but now it is usually wet and dirty and sees little attention.
 
Technical
6c+
5
Barely Decent
Originally this started at 7b+ just to the left of the direct start to Indecent Exposure, to join it briefly at the break. A...
 
Technical
Loose
7a+
6
Hubris
27m. A wild loose rock experience but with reasonable gear low down. Climb the wall past some old pegs to the break. Pull over...
 
Pumpy
Loose
E5 6a
7
Indecent Exposure Top 50
Climb up the awkward bottom wall to the break, then pull over a bulge and continue up a large chalked-up flake. (Stick clip the...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
7c
8
The Full Monty
Continue to the top of the crag from the belay on Indecent.
 
1 Stars
7c+
9
Introducing the Hardline According to Terrance Trout
An up and down trip across the upper section of the crag. Start up Indecent and belay at the break. Move right into Body...
 7b+
10
Body Machine Top 50
A classic route with great moves throughout its full length, and includes a finish which can spit you off. Climb up the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c+
11
Half Decent
Climb Body Machine to the first break, then make tricky moves up and slightly left to join Indecent Exposure at its crux....
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
12
An In and Out of Body Experience
An fine extension to Body Machine climbing the wall up and left of the belay to powerful moves around the top roof.
 
2 Stars
8a
13
Body Builder
Climb Body Machine to the big hole in the upper break, then pull up and rightwards and attack the powerful bulge, rejoining...
 
2 Stars
8a+
14
The Prow
One of the historic landmark routes of the Peak. The way to climb it these days is in one giant pitch from the ground for an...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
8a
15
Jehovah Kill
A desperate technical exercise up the wall to the right of The Body Machine start. Lower-off at the first break.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b+
16
The Crucifixion
Climb The Prow to the base of the final groove, then pull directly over the small roof above and a brief rest then make a big...
 
3 Stars
8a
17
Proud Whore
Climb The Prow to the top of the tufa line and then continue straight up past a tricky move to enter the steep groove line...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7c+
18
Brazen Strumpet
A complicated and very long (40m) pitch requiring some careful rope work. Start up The Prow to the belay on Revelations then...
 
2 Stars
Technical
8a
19
Revelations
A great historic route that still regularly repels attempts. A desperate start (which has got harder over the years) using a...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b
20
Rage
The significant continuation of Revelations is the true line of the old aid route The Prow. Follow Revelations to the belay...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b
21
Hubble
Climb directly over the bulges below and right of Revelations, moving slightly left above. Another historical landmark, being...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
8c+
22
Make It Funky
A breach of the lower bulges that packs in a lot of hard climbing. Follow the bulges leftwards to a blank section and the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8c
23
Mega Whore
An extension to Make It Funky is a good, but slightly unbalanced, pitch which has never become popular. Climb the original...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8c
24
Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis
A fine, historic route from the 80s, which has some stopper moves and regularly repels redpoint attempts. Start in the cave and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b+
25
The Whore of Babylon
This was an early attempt to free the aid route Brandenburg Gate which included what is now Hubble and created, briefly, one of...
 8a
26
Mecca Extension
The full version is an incredible stamina test which packs an 8a+ on top of the already desperate 8b+. There is a rest at the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
8c
27
Hajj
Another extension to Mecca, which is slightly harder and more bouldery than the original. Follow Mecca Extension to the good...
 
2 Stars
Technical
8c
28
Kaabah
A stunning direct extension to Mecca which avoids the big flake at the belay. At the top of Mecca's groove continue direct up...
 
3 Stars
Technical
8c+
29
Evolution
Moffatt's last significant route at the Tor was a major achievement in every respect, although it has now been over-shadowed by...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8c+
30
Stevolution
Climb Evolution to the belay and continue into Kaabah.
 
1 Stars
Technical
9a
31
Mutation
The most impressive of McClure's awesome additions to the crag and the current hardest in the Peak. Before the hard span near...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
9a
32
Devolution
Climb Evolution to past the roof then pull out right to finish up Chimes of Freedom.
 
1 Stars
Technical
8b+
33
Chimes of Freedom
One of the more popular hard routes at the Tor. There are several methods to pull around the bottom roof, all are hard and...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
8a+
34
Major Waddage
A superb long extension to Chimes of Freedom. The route misses out the Chimes belay and continues straight up the technical...
 
3 Stars
8b
35
The Green Alternative
The short roof to the right of Chimes shares the same start then pulls up right and through the roof via campus style moves to...
 
1 Stars
7c+
36
Chimes Alternative
Link The Green Alternative into the upper wall of Chimes of Freedom.
 
1 Stars
8a
37
Weedkiller
A typical Raven Tor boulder problem route. Reaching the roof is tricky but crossing it is another ball game altogether.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
38
The Green Rooster
Gain the loose upper wall by starting up The Green Alternative.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
8a
39
Rooster Booster (P2)
A seldom-climbed pitch which is a little loose in places, however, the position and moves are good. It can be gained by aiding...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
7c
40
Fowl Play
Start up Weedkiller to the belay then climb Rooster Booster (pitch 2 ) to the high break. Pull over the bulge up and leftwards...
 
1 Stars
Technical
8a
41
Let's Get Green
A worthwhile pitch with good moves. Climb The Green Alternative to the Weedkiller belay, head up and right via a thin...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
42
Jive Turkey
A worthwhile pitch with good moves. From the Weedkiller belay, head up and right via a thin flake-line to the break and a rest....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
43
The Missing Link
Start up Weedkiller then follow Jive Turkey to the thin break-line. From here climb direct up the snappy black wall above and...
 
Technical
8a
44
The Exterminator
Climb Weedkiller to the belay, then make a short traverse rightwards for about 2m to gain the thin wall and then continue...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
8a+
45
Rooster Crossing
A desperate direct start to The Exterminator. Climb through the roof to the right of Weedkiller via grim moves to the thin...
 
1 Stars
Technical
8c
46
Rooster Booster
The distinct traverse line left from the start of Sardine gives a powerful and strength-sapping pitch which suits those with...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7c+
47
Sardine Top 50
A classic polished Peak landmark which is still a tough route to onsight. There are a few ways of doing the lower crux and the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
7b+
48
Tin Of Top 50
Another popular route with the grade causing some debate, some think easier than Sardine, others harder. Follow Sardine to the...
21 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
49
Bullet the Blue Sky
A hybrid typical of the crag which gains the fun upper wall of Jive Turkey by a long diagonal. Can be done easily on a single...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
50
Crumblefish
A poor route which sees little attention. It has lost holds and become harder. Span left from the start of Tin Of and climb the...
3 user comments
 8a
51
Another Toadside Attraction
A popular direct on Sardine. Climb directly up from the start, up the short groove via hard moves to gain the ledge on Sardine....
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
7c
52
In Brine
The thin flake to the right of Sardine has an extremely technical and fingery middle section, which is now even harder due to...
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
8a
53
Obscene Gesture
The new version of the old traditional route has a slightly different line and is now a popular sport route. Starting...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
54
Obscene Toilet
An excellent direct start to The Toilet. Climb up the flake-line - the original start to Obscene Gesture - then move up until...
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
55
The Toilet
One of the more popular technical routes at the Tor. Climb to the top of the prominent flake then move up and traverse left via...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
8a
56
The Call of Nature
One of the more recent additions to the Tor has become one of the most popular 8a's on the crag. Start up The Toilet to where...
 
2 Stars
Technical
8a
57
Cream Team Special
A well-positioned traverse across the main break which gives some wild pumpy climbing and is very scary to second, but rarely...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E5
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  • Latest Comments

    For RAVEN TOR

    The Flushings
    "Changed from 7b+ to 7b+ *, 84% of 6 votes for *" 27/May

    The Exterminator
    "Decided to take a look at this less popular route, some good moves if the line i..." 22/Apr

    The Prow
    "I found a good way of clipping the bolt on the lip of the roof on pitch 3. From ..." 25/Oct

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "Shackdoug: Nice one. At least my comments were related to the route in question...." 10/Jan

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "To craig devonshire: thought this space was for commenting on routes, not snipin..." 08/Jan

    Rooster Booster
    "By the way, forgot to add, I agree with another tor activist that Rooster Booste..." 30/Nov

    The Prow
    "Full Prow best done using the cruxy hard-to-grade (E5 6c!) Body Machine direct s..." 22/Sep

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "In addition, you can clip the first bolt on Sardine which protects the moves to ..." 01/Aug

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "I feel qualified to agree with the previous suggestions and grade votes that it ..." 01/Aug

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "If you put an 8 foot sling on the bolt on Sardine after the crux then that saves..." 28/Jul

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "I was referring to Fiend's comment "retroed to make some sort of sport clim..." 28/Jul

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "The bolt positioning is fine, but the old ring bolt above the overlap isn't the ..." 28/Jul

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "The bolting is fine on this route. They are here you need them. As this is the f..." 27/Jul

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "First route I've redpointed. Quite good fun and a much better line than Sardine...." 26/Jul

    Proud Whore
    "Amazing route, from the ground it probably merits 7c+ now. Has a hard move pulli..." 19/Jul

    Indecent Exposure
    "New combo courtesy of Zippy from the ground using the Body Machine direct start ..." 10/Jul top50

    Out of My Tree
    "The old Wye Valley guide gave it E4 6b avec tree but said something about using ..." 23/May

    Sardine
    "Totally ruined by polish! Much of which is caused by people who have on intenti..." 26/Apr top50

    Jive Turkey
    "Not a bad wee route. Only neglected cos you have to haul up the rope over the we..." 06/Oct

    Proud Whore
    "Hard for the grade, especially now as I pulled off a large undercut/sidepull in ..." 18/Jul

    A Little Extra
    "I'd give it 7b for sure, its a pretty hard start move compared to some stuff you..." 15/May

    A Little Extra
    "Any idea what it's given with the boulder start? 7b maybe?" 03/May

    Body Machine
    "Did this today with Zippy's direct start which climbs the wall behind the tree, ..." 21/Oct top50

    In Brine
    "don't really have much experience at this grade but have been on a few other 8as..." 07/Aug

    Crumblefish
    "Oh and the grade? Soft to middling 8a - you don't get many one finger sidepulls ..." 25/Jul

    Out of My Tree
    "Get your heal on the jug Adrian. Feels really easy then." 26/May

    Indecent Exposure
    "Very soft 7b+ IMHO, possibly just hard 7b, as once you've got to the break the t..." 14/Feb top50

    Tin Of
    "Significantly harder than Sardine. I agree with Lucy E's view that the grades of..." 11/Jan top50

    Tin Of
    "Done this a few times. I admit it took me longer to get than Sardine. I think it..." 30/Oct top50

    Bullet the Blue Sky
    "Forgot to add that the last clip is something of a 'gripper-clipper' being about..." 26/Sep

    Cream Team Special
    "I often wonder if I am still the only person who has done this both when it was ..." 15/Sep

    Revelations
    "Agreed this is a font 7c (V9) into a french 7c route. Don't think 8b as the star..." 02/Sep

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "After years of continuing deterioration, a small but perfectly formed left footh..." 21/Aug

    In Brine
    "Tomato Sauce is an entertaining excursion although I would suggest a reappraisal..." 10/Jul

    Wild in Me
    "A short and powerful little number, if you're tall and can reach through the cru..." 09/Jun

    Tin Of
    "Ah, that makes sense, thanks." 05/Jun top50

    Hubble
    "A bit pully. Highball Font7c+?" 01/Jun

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