Raven Tor Routes

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Guidebook page 216.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Arabian Nights
Climb vegetated rock to a peg at a break. Move up left to gain a groove which leads to a tree. Currently covered in ivy.
 
Loose
E4 6b
2
Sheikh, Rattle 'n Roll
Start up Arabian Nights to the break. Climb up to the bulge and pull over - hard. The fixed gear is all a bit old and tatty....
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
Loose
7b
3
Koran Direct
A fully bolted route that is hardly ever climbed these days due to the fact it takes a long time to dry out and clean up.
1 user comment
 
Technical
7a+
4
Ayatollah
Once a popular warm-up route, but now it is usually wet and dirty and sees little attention.
 
Technical
6c+
5
Barely Decent
Originally this started at 7b+ just to the left of the direct start to Indecent Exposure, to join it briefly at the break. A...
 
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
7a+
6
Hubris
27m. A wild loose rock experience but with reasonable gear low down. Climb the wall past some old pegs to the break. Pull over...
 
Pumpy
Loose
E5 6a
7
Indecent Exposure Top 50
Climb up the awkward bottom wall to the break, then pull over a bulge and continue up a large chalked-up flake. (Stick clip the...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
8
Introducing the Hardline According to Terrance Trout
An up and down trip across the upper section of the crag. Start up Indecent and belay at the break. Move right into Body...
 7b+
9
Body Machine Top 50
A classic route with great moves throughout its full length, and includes a finish which can spit you off. Climb up the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
10
An In and Out of Body Experience
An fine extension to Body Machine climbing the wall up and left of the belay to powerful moves around the top roof.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
11
Body Builder
Climb Body Machine to the big hole in the upper break, then pull up and rightwards and attack the powerful bulge, rejoining...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
12
The Prow
One of the historic landmark routes of the Peak. The way to climb it these days is in one giant pitch from the ground for an...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
13
Jehovah Kill
A desperate technical exercise up the wall to the right of The Body Machine start. Lower-off at the first break.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8b+
14
The Crucifixion
Climb The Prow to the base of the final groove, then pull directly over the small roof above and a brief rest then make a big...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
8a
15
Proud Whore
Climb The Prow to the top of the tufa line and then continue straight up past a tricky move to enter the steep groove line...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
16
Brazen Strumpet
A complicated and very long (40m) pitch requiring some careful rope work. Start up The Prow to the belay on Revelations then...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
8a
17
Revelations
A great historic route that still regularly repels attempts. A desperate start (which has got harder over the years) using a...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b
18
Rage
The significant continuation of Revelations is the true line of the old aid route The Prow. Follow Revelations to the belay...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
19
Hubble
Climb directly over the bulges below and right of Revelations, moving slightly left above. Another historical landmark, being...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
8c+
20
Make It Funky
A breach of the lower bulges that packs in a lot of hard climbing. Follow the bulges leftwards to a blank section and the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8c
21
Mega Whore
An extension to Make It Funky is a good, but slightly unbalanced, pitch which has never become popular. Climb the original...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
8c
22
Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis
A fine, historic route from the 80s, which has some stopper moves and regularly repels redpoint attempts. Start in the cave and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b+
23
The Whore of Babylon
This was an early attempt to free the aid route Brandenburg Gate which included what is now Hubble and created, briefly, one of...
 8a
24
Mecca Extension
The full version is an incredible stamina test which packs an 8a+ on top of the already desperate 8b+. There is a rest at the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
8c
25
Hajj
Another extension to Mecca, which is slightly harder and more bouldery than the original. Follow Mecca Extension to the good...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8c
26
Kaabah
A stunning direct extension to Mecca which avoids the big flake at the belay. At the top of Mecca's groove continue direct up...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8c+
27
Evolution
Moffatt's last significant route at the Tor was a major achievement in every respect, although it has now been over-shadowed by...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8c+
28
Mutation
The most impressive of McClure's awesome additions to the crag and the current hardest in the Peak. Before the hard span near...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
9a
29
Chimes of Freedom
One of the more popular hard routes at the Tor. There are several methods to pull around the bottom roof, all are hard and...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
30
Major Waddage
A superb long extension to Chimes of Freedom. The route misses out the Chimes belay and continues straight up the technical...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b
31
The Green Alternative
The short roof to the right of Chimes shares the same start then pulls up right and through the roof via campus style moves to...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
32
Weedkiller
A typical Raven Tor boulder problem route. Reaching the roof is tricky but crossing it is another ball game altogether.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
33
Rooster Booster (P2)
A seldom-climbed pitch which is a little loose in places, however, the position and moves are good. It can be gained by aiding...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
7c
34
Fowl Play
Start up Weedkiller to the belay then climb Rooster Booster (pitch 2 ) to the high break. Pull over the bulge up and leftwards...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
35
Jive Turkey
A worthwhile pitch with good moves. From the Weedkiller belay, head up and right via a thin flake-line to the break and a rest....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
36
The Missing Link
Start up Weedkiller then follow Jive Turkey to the thin break-line. From here climb direct up the snappy black wall above and...
 
Technical
Crimpy
8a
37
The Exterminator
Climb Weedkiller to the belay, then make a short traverse rightwards for about 2m to gain the thin wall and then continue...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
38
Rooster Crossing
A desperate direct start to The Exterminator. Climb through the roof to the right of Weedkiller via grim moves to the thin...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8c
39
Rooster Booster
The distinct traverse line left from the start of Sardine gives a powerful and strength-sapping pitch which suits those with...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
40
Sardine Top 50
A classic polished Peak landmark which is still a tough route to onsight. There are a few ways of doing the lower crux and the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
41
Tin Of Top 50
Another popular route with the grade causing some debate, some think easier than Sardine, others harder. Follow Sardine to the...
21 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
42
Bullet the Blue Sky
A hybrid typical of the crag which gains the fun upper wall of Jive Turkey by a long diagonal. Can be done easily on a single...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
43
Crumblefish
A poor route which sees little attention. It has lost holds and become harder. Span left from the start of Tin Of and climb the...
3 user comments
 
Reachy
Crimpy
8a
44
Another Toadside Attraction
A popular direct on Sardine. Climb directly up from the start, up the short groove via hard moves to gain the ledge on Sardine....
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
7c
45
In Brine
The thin flake to the right of Sardine has an extremely technical and fingery middle section, which is now even harder due to...
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
8a
46
Obscene Gesture
The new version of the old traditional route has a slightly different line and is now a popular sport route. Starting...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
7c
47
Obscene Toilet
An excellent direct start to The Toilet. Climb up the flake-line - the original start to Obscene Gesture - then move up until...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
7c
48
The Toilet
One of the more popular technical routes at the Tor. Climb to the top of the prominent flake then move up and traverse left via...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
8a
49
The Call of Nature
One of the more recent additions to the Tor has become one of the most popular 8a's on the crag. Start up The Toilet to where...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
8a
50
Cream Team Special
A well-positioned traverse across the main break which gives some wild pumpy climbing and is very scary to second, but rarely...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
51
Verbal Abuse
A hard and serious trad line which receives no attention these days. Climb a groove to a peg, move up left to another peg and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E7 6c
52
Ring of Fire
A variation start to Hot Flushes, move right at the first bolt via bouldery moves then continue up right to rejoin the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
53
Hot Flushes
Start up the groove of Verbal Abuse to an undercut jug, then make hard moves rightwards along a series of finger edges almost...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
8a
54
The Flushings
Gain Hot Flushes from A Little Extra.
3 user comments
 7b+
55
A Little Extra
One of the original free routes here. The original grade is for jumping to the starting jug. Starting from the ground...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
56
Little Boots
Do the start of A Little Extra then swing out right and up with difficulty into Hooligan, then finish more easily up this.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
57
Hooligan
The thin wall left of Boot Boys has an extremely hard start to gain a good hold then more fingery 8b climbing on tiny holds up...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8c
58
Cream Tea Special
A pointless traverse across Boot Boys to the lower-off on Out of My Tree with one very hard move.
 
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
59
Boot Boys
A desperate technical wall climb which is best suited to those with small fingers and high pain tolerance. Boulder up to a jug...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a+
60
Out of My Boots
Start as for Boot Boys to the jug and then pull out right to finish up Out of My Tree.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
61
Out of My Tree
Another painful boulder problem start leads to the break and a jug, then make one more hard pull leftwards to gain the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a
62
Dialectics
From the jug on Out of My Tree, move up right and then make a few tough moves on sloping holds to gain a lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a+
63
Pump up the Power
Only short but it packs it in. Pull past a pocket to a short groove then make a desperate exit from this to a lower-off.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
8a+
64
Rattle and Hump
Short and sharp. Boulder up to the jug then make a desperate move left. Finish more easily up and right to the ledge.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
65
Seraphim
The wall to the right of Rattle and Hump has a desperate start on tiny holds and then a marginally easier upper wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b+
66
Wild in Me
A reachy and bouldery start past two flakes leads to a finger rail and then a few tricky pulls on the upper wall to a belay.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
67
Super High Intensity Body Building
A well-named end to the activities here. Boulder up a flake to a good hold then move right and up the wall to the belay above...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a
68
Tomb Raider
The central line past 4 bolts. A tricky slab at the bottom leads to powerful moves through the bulge. Easier for the tall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
8a
69
The Ministry of Silly Walks
A four pitch traverse across the right-hand side of the crag, starting at the grass ledge above SHIBB and finishing at the top...
 E1 5b
70
Mortal Kombat
The left-hand line past 3 bolts.
 
Technical
7b+
71
Gran Tourismo
The right-hand line past 3 bolts.
 
Technical
7b
72
Saline Drip
The wall above the small parking bay.
 E5 6b
73
Culloden
This has been re-bolted and is a worthwhile route if you enjoy the short bouldery offerings at Raven Tor.
 
2 Stars
Technical
8a+
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  • Latest Comments

    For RAVEN TOR

    The Prow
    "I found a good way of clipping the bolt on the lip of the roof on pitch 3. From ..." 25/Oct

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "Shackdoug: Nice one. At least my comments were related to the route in question...." 10/Jan

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "To craig devonshire: thought this space was for commenting on routes, not snipin..." 08/Jan

    Rooster Booster
    "By the way, forgot to add, I agree with another tor activist that Rooster Booste..." 30/Nov

    The Prow
    "Full Prow best done using the cruxy hard-to-grade (E5 6c!) Body Machine direct s..." 22/Sep

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "In addition, you can clip the first bolt on Sardine which protects the moves to ..." 01/Aug

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "I feel qualified to agree with the previous suggestions and grade votes that it ..." 01/Aug

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "If you put an 8 foot sling on the bolt on Sardine after the crux then that saves..." 28/Jul

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "I was referring to Fiend's comment "retroed to make some sort of sport clim..." 28/Jul

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "The bolt positioning is fine, but the old ring bolt above the overlap isn't the ..." 28/Jul

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "The bolting is fine on this route. They are here you need them. As this is the f..." 27/Jul

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "First route I've redpointed. Quite good fun and a much better line than Sardine...." 26/Jul

    Proud Whore
    "Amazing route, from the ground it probably merits 7c+ now. Has a hard move pulli..." 19/Jul

    Indecent Exposure
    "New combo courtesy of Zippy from the ground using the Body Machine direct start ..." 10/Jul top50

    Out of My Tree
    "The old Wye Valley guide gave it E4 6b avec tree but said something about using ..." 23/May

    Sardine
    "Totally ruined by polish! Much of which is caused by people who have on intenti..." 26/Apr top50

    Jive Turkey
    "Not a bad wee route. Only neglected cos you have to haul up the rope over the we..." 06/Oct

    Proud Whore
    "Hard for the grade, especially now as I pulled off a large undercut/sidepull in ..." 18/Jul

    A Little Extra
    "I'd give it 7b for sure, its a pretty hard start move compared to some stuff you..." 15/May

    A Little Extra
    "Any idea what it's given with the boulder start? 7b maybe?" 03/May

    Body Machine
    "Did this today with Zippy's direct start which climbs the wall behind the tree, ..." 21/Oct top50

    In Brine
    "don't really have much experience at this grade but have been on a few other 8as..." 07/Aug

    Crumblefish
    "Oh and the grade? Soft to middling 8a - you don't get many one finger sidepulls ..." 25/Jul

    Out of My Tree
    "Get your heal on the jug Adrian. Feels really easy then." 26/May

    Indecent Exposure
    "Very soft 7b+ IMHO, possibly just hard 7b, as once you've got to the break the t..." 14/Feb top50

    Tin Of
    "Significantly harder than Sardine. I agree with Lucy E's view that the grades of..." 11/Jan top50

    Tin Of
    "Done this a few times. I admit it took me longer to get than Sardine. I think it..." 30/Oct top50

    Bullet the Blue Sky
    "Forgot to add that the last clip is something of a 'gripper-clipper' being about..." 26/Sep

    Cream Team Special
    "I often wonder if I am still the only person who has done this both when it was ..." 15/Sep

    Revelations
    "Agreed this is a font 7c (V9) into a french 7c route. Don't think 8b as the star..." 02/Sep

    Another Toadside Attraction
    "After years of continuing deterioration, a small but perfectly formed left footh..." 21/Aug

    In Brine
    "Tomato Sauce is an entertaining excursion although I would suggest a reappraisal..." 10/Jul

    Wild in Me
    "A short and powerful little number, if you're tall and can reach through the cru..." 09/Jun

    Tin Of
    "Ah, that makes sense, thanks." 05/Jun top50

    Hubble
    "A bit pully. Highball Font7c+?" 01/Jun

    Tin Of
    "Bear in mind Sam that about 2 years ago the mono pocket on the crux on Tin of be..." 26/May top50

    Tin Of
    "Its 7b & probably not hard at that, the pocket move is fine if you are good ..." 26/May top50

    The Toilet
    "Whilst its in print, happy to take the 8a;in reality it lacks a 6c move to reall..." 26/May

    Rattle and Hump
    "Like Jim says the broken hold just means that the tall can't now lank through th..." 20/Apr

    In Brine
    "8a but definitely bottom of that graded list!" 09/Nov

    Obscene Gesture
    "Peg snapped/fell out as I brushed past it on a TR. Felt harder than Sardine and..." 02/Sep

    Revelations
    "8a+ /8b? it's a close call. If you are an Font8a boulderer it's probably 8a+ but..." 23/Aug

    The Prow
    "Full Prow (all pitches done as one) is never 8a, more like bottom end 7c+, not m..." 05/Aug

    A Little Extra
    "Just one hard move- good route though" 04/Aug

    A Little Extra
    "Feels more like 7a to me but I'm not sure. Good climbing after the boulder prob ..." 06/Jun

    Cream Team Special
    "Absolutely gripped up on this one. Did it one night in the pouring rain and abbe..." 31/May

    In Brine
    "Bearing in mind some of the routes that get 8a these days this has to be 8a." 18/May

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