Adjacent Areas
< Upper Circle | Lammergeyer Buttress >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
25 minsThis area has two isolated buttresses with a few quality routes between them. Mandrake Buttress is worth a visit if you are looking for some stern trad routes. Ping Buttress has two great mid-grade routes which will not disappoint. Guidebook page 232.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Going Bush 10m. A serious lead which was first done with pre-placed wires and Friends. It follows the thin wall left of the corner of... 1 user comment | Technical | E5 6c |
2 |
Jungle Jim 18m. A poor route with a dangerous finish. Climb the corner to a roof, step right and follow the wall above to the trees. | Loose | E2 5b |
3 |
Tree Dweller's Crack 5m of tree, 14m of rock. Climb the huge tree then step onto the wall to a crack. Climb this and a load of crap rock to the top. | Loose | E3 6a |
4 |
Deception A fine route with unlikely-looking climbing for the grade. Climb the steep wall to the break, pull up right into a thin crack... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6a |
5 |
Confidence Trick Climb a tiny groove in the arete then trend left up the wall passing spaced bolts (small wires needed) at the start. Finish at... | 7b+ | |
6 |
Rio Verde Hard climbing up the capped groove right of Deception. Pull left from the top of the groove and climb the tricky upper arete.... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
7 |
Matto Grosso Chimney 18m. The huge chimney is best left to the history books. | VS 4c | |
8 |
Mandrake An excellent headwall is the main attraction on this reclusive test-piece. Climb the loose wall to a ledge, the thin crack... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6a |
9 |
Chistiliano Wall 18m. The wall to the right of Mandrake, after the same start. | Loose | E4 6b |
10 |
Marsh Dweller's Rib 16m. Climb the Yew tree down and right of Mandrake. Step onto the wall and climb the crack. | Loose | E3 6a |
11 |
The Ponger Start up Ping, or further up left, and climb the left edge of the buttress, finishing up a left-facing corner. Poor. | VS 4b | |
12 |
Ping A fine crack climb which provides one of the (few) real gems of the Upper Circle, pumpy and quite awkward to protect. It starts... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
13 |
Ping Pong The superb flake is a great companion to its left-hand sister offering another pumpy number. Start on the centre of the... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
14 |
Desmond Douglas The combi-route had to be climbed but, unlike in most cases, this one has a worthwhile (and reachy) move, past a thread. High... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy | E2 5c |
15 |
Pong The other table-tennis route avoids the decent rock on the buttress. This one starts up PP but then makes the mistake of... | Loose | E1 5b |
16 |
The Creative Urge 15m. Up and right of the main buttress is a small tower. This route gains a couple of cracks from below and right. 1 user comment | HVS 5b | |
17 |
Virgin's Crack 15m. The crack on the right-hand end of the buttress. 1 user comment | VS 4b | |
18 |
Summons 10m. The wall above a clump of trees. | Loose | E4 5c |
19 |
Nappy Squad 10m. The wall and roof right of the trees. 2 pegs. | Loose | E5 6b |
20 |
Dreams of Leaving 10m. Some leftward leaning flakes. | Loose | E2 5c |
21 |
Love is the Drug 10m. A poor sport route on the wall left of Still Small Voice. The grade is an approximation since the holds keep changing. 2... | Technical Loose | 6c+ |
22 |
The Still Small Voice 12m. The most hidden of all hidden gems which is often dusty and forgotten but is always worth climbing. Just dig those finger... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
23 |
Strip Search 12m. Overgrown wall to the right of Still Small Voice. | Loose | E2 5c |