Lightning Wall Area

Trad
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

This is one of the most popular sections of Swanage, and not just because it is close to the car park. The routes here are mostly excellent, with a number of classics in the HVS to E2 range. Guidebook page 390.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Director's Groove
This rather worrying route starts up a wide groove in the wall just right of the abseil line (looking in).1) 5a, 25m. Climb...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
2
Lightning Wall Top 50
An intimidating, but essential tick of the Boulder Ruckle which can be climbed in two pitches. Start below a groove, just left...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
3
Elysium Top 50
A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the fault-line. Climb a crack to a ledge at...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
4
Brisingamen
A eliminate paralleling Singing Winds, Start as for Elysium. Climb a faint, run-out groove (peg) and the short crack above....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
5
Singing Winds
A big wall pitch just right of Elysium with some fine, bold face work. Start as for Elysium. Climb the initial crack, then move...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
6
Dune Dust
A good route that maintains interest throughout both its pitches. The pegs are old but there is good gear available to back...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
7
Thunder Groove
A quality route. Start at a small corner behind the highest boulder. 1) 5b, 25m. Head right for 5m then make a hard move...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
8
Gypsy Top 50
Well-travelled and protectable climbing, sustained but never too desperate. Start below a slim, right-facing corner in the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For BOULDER RUCKLE

    Jo
    "I've only just started getting into Swanage HVS and thought that this was a fant..." 25/May top50

    Old Faithful
    "Lovely route, and very steep - my second dropped a karabiner from the very last ..." 18/Aug top50

    Finale Groove
    "Just as good as I remember" 25/Jul top50

    The Grim Reaper
    "Had an epic on P2 after Mark led P1 to the rightly described scary stance. After..." 11/Jun

    Jericho Groove
    "Good little route well worth doing" 28/Oct

    Sun King
    "Good technical climbing but nothing really hard, just quite balancey. Fairly bo..." 19/Sep

    Mother Africa
    "quite a committing series of moves to get on the ledge, gain the crack and then ..." 17/Jul top50

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