Lightning Wall Area

Adjacent Areas
< Marmolata Area  |  Old Faithful Area >

Trad
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

This is one of the most popular sections of Swanage, and not just because it is close to the car park. The routes here are mostly excellent, with a number of classics in the HVS to E2 range. The right-hand section of the area is a fine section of cliff that is tidal towards its eastern end.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Director's Groove
This rather worrying route starts up a wide groove in the wall just right of the abseil line (looking in).1) 5a, 25m....
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS
2
Lightning Wall Top 50
An intimidating, but essential tick of the Boulder Ruckle which can be climbed in two pitches. Start below a groove, just left...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
3
Elysium Top 50
A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the fault-line. Climb a crack to a ledge at...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1
4
Brisingamen
A eliminate paralleling Singing Winds, Start as for Elysium. Climb a faint, run-out groove (peg) and the short crack above....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5
5
Singing Winds
A big wall pitch just right of Elysium with some fine, bold face work. Start as for Elysium. Climb the initial crack, then move...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4
6
Dune Dust
A good route that maintains interest throughout both its pitches. The pegs are old but there is good gear available to back...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
7
Thunder Groove
A quality route. Start at a small corner behind the highest boulder. 1) 5b, 25m. Head right for 5m then make a hard move...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS
8
Gypsy
Well-travelled and protectable climbing, sustained but never too desperate. Start below a slim, right-facing corner in the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2
9
The Adventures of Portland Bill
An unusual low-level traverse that provides a long and interesting tour of some of the very best rock and positions on this...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2
10
Strongbow
Similar quality to Gypsy (page 291 ) with some nice steep climbing. Start at a right-facing corner. High in the grade.1)...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1
11
Vortices
A mix of the sustained and strenuous on a strong line makes this a route worth tracking down. Start right of a corner, below a...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2
12
The Mace
Bold and technical on both pitches. Recommended.1) 6b, 18m. Ascend past a triangular niche - thread - and move leftwards...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
13
Acapulco
More strenuous than bold but with a committing start. Start 3m left of where the flat ledges drop away.1) 6a, 18m. Climb...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
14
The Planet
A great trip - very exposed and a touch run-out on the second pitch. The first pitch has suffered a rockfall but has been...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3
15
White Dwarf
Variation to The Planet pitch 2. Climb the centre of the fine wall above the middle section of The Planet traverse.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2
16
Ximenes
A classic crack-line which is sustained, athletic and protectable all the way. Start 10m right of the big corner below the...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2
17
Gimcrack
One of the more amenable, but difficult-to-access climbs on this section of the Boulder Ruckle. Start at a low-angled section...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS