Adjacent Areas
< Marmolata Area | Lightning Wall Area - Right >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
15 minsAbseil
Windy
This is one of the most popular sections of Swanage, and not just because it is close to the car park. The routes here are mostly excellent, with a number of classics in the HVS to E2 range. Guidebook page 390.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Director's Groove This rather worrying route starts up a wide groove in the wall just right of the abseil line (looking in).1) 5a, 25m. Climb... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5a |
2 |
Lightning Wall Top 50 An intimidating, but essential tick of the Boulder Ruckle which can be climbed in two pitches. Start below a groove, just left... 11 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
3 |
Elysium Top 50 A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the fault-line. Climb a crack to a ledge at... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
4 |
Brisingamen A eliminate paralleling Singing Winds, Start as for Elysium. Climb a faint, run-out groove (peg) and the short crack above.... | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
5 |
Singing Winds A big wall pitch just right of Elysium with some fine, bold face work. Start as for Elysium. Climb the initial crack, then move... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E4 6a |
6 |
Dune Dust A good route that maintains interest throughout both its pitches. The pegs are old but there is good gear available to back... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
7 |
Thunder Groove A quality route. Start at a small corner behind the highest boulder. 1) 5b, 25m. Head right for 5m then make a hard move... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
8 |
Gypsy Top 50 Well-travelled and protectable climbing, sustained but never too desperate. Start below a slim, right-facing corner in the... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
