Adjacent Areas
< The West Wall | Central Wall & Bertram's Chimney >
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Level
12 minsThis section is the showpiece of the crag with a set of fine intricate climbs which take complex lines to reach some magnificent positions high on the wall. On its left-hand side is The Thorn - one of the Peak's finest limestone climbs. In the middle of the crag is a fine shield of perfect pocketed rock. This exceptional wall has several good routes although the black streak taken by Black Grub is head and shoulders above the rest. Guidebook page 293.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Thorn Top 50 One of the Peak's best limestone climbs and the classic of the crag. A superb central line, with a well-positioned crux. A pull... 11 user comments | 3 Stars | HVS 5a |
2 |
Flying Doctor Devious but exciting, especially in its upper reaches.1) 5c, 38m. Climb The Thorn for 12m then move left and up into a... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
3 |
Double Top Another devious routes that seeks out difficulties and exposure and finds plenty of both.1) 4b, 28m. Pitch one of The Thorn... | 1 Stars Technical Strong | E4 6a |
4 |
Ivy Gash Short-lived and unbalanced but it follows a strong natural line.1) 5a, 28m. Take pitch 1 of The Thorn to the chains.2)... | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
5 |
Stagnation From the point where The Thorn heads back left into the gully, climb straight up the pocketed wall to reach a short diagonal... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
6 |
Nocturne Follow The Thorn until a traverse leads out right to a ledge (possible stance to the right if required) then climb the face via... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
7 |
Pocket Symphony From the ledge, head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (threadable surprises... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | E1 5b |
8 |
Deaf Dove More pocket-pulling though fiercer than most hereabouts. Despite that, the route is quite low in the grade. Don't forget the... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | E2 5c |
9 |
Evensong The right-hand side of the face gives a fine pitch. Climb the shallow scoop/groove directly above the stance then continue up... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E1 5a |
10 |
Midnight Mass A boldish rarely climbed pitch up the right side of the face. Some threads might need to be (re)placed. Climb the right-hand... | Crimpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
11 |
The Beesting A huge leap gains a hole and exciting sideways climbing. | 2 Stars Reachy | 8a |
12 |
The Beeston Bomber Very reachy climbing through the roof right of centre. | 2 Stars Reachy | 8a+ |
13 |
666 The original line here with fierce pocket climbing. | 2 Stars Technical | 7c+ |
14 |
Beast It! A short line up the bulge on the right. | Technical | 7b |
15 |
Pat-trick Reachy moves in and out of the hanging niche. | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E4 6b |
