Ivy Gash

Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
12 mins
Level
Sheltered

This section is the showpiece of the crag with a set of fine intricate climbs which take complex lines to reach some magnificent positions high on the wall. On its left-hand side is The Thorn - one of the Peak's finest limestone climbs. In the middle of the crag is a fine shield of perfect pocketed rock. This exceptional wall has several good routes although the black streak taken by Black Grub is head and shoulders above the rest.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Thorn Top 50
One of the Peak's best limestone climbs and the classic of the crag. A superb central line, with a well-positioned crux. A pull...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
2
Flying Doctor
Devious but exciting, especially in its upper reaches.1) 5c, 38m. Climb The Thorn for 12m then move left and up into a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
3
Double Top
Another devious routes that seeks out difficulties and exposure and finds plenty of both.1) 4b, 28m. Pitch one of The Thorn...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6a
4
Ivy Gash
Short-lived and unbalanced but it follows a strong natural line.1) 5a, 28m. Take pitch 1 of The Thorn to the chains.2)...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
5
Stagnation
From the point where The Thorn heads back left into the gully, climb straight up the pocketed wall to reach a short diagonal...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
6
Nocturne
Follow The Thorn until a traverse leads out right to a ledge (possible stance to the right if required) then climb the face via...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
7
Pocket Symphony
From the ledge, head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (threadable surprises...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
8
Deaf Dove
More pocket-pulling though fiercer than most hereabouts. Despite that, the route is quite low in the grade. Don't forget the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E2 5c
9
Evensong
The right-hand side of the face gives a fine pitch. Climb the shallow scoop/groove directly above the stance then continue up...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E1 5a
10
Midnight Mass
A boldish rarely climbed pitch up the right side of the face. Some threads might need to be (re)placed. Climb the right-hand...
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
11
The Beesting
A huge leap gains a hole and exciting sideways climbing.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
8a
12
The Beeston Bomber
Very reachy climbing through the roof right of centre.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
8a+
13
666
The original line here with fierce pocket climbing.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c+
14
Beast It!
A short line up the bulge on the right.
 
Technical
7b
15
Pat-trick
Reachy moves in and out of the hanging niche.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 6b
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  • Latest Comments

    For BEESTON TOR

    Central Wall
    "8 years on from the last couple of comments, I can report that the route is stil..." 04/Sep

    Lord of the Dance
    "Well worthwhile. Pitch 1 climbed from the path is more like 30m and belays at ..." 03/Sep

    West Wall Climb
    "Excellent route. Too much vegetation and earth for 3 stars but maybe just about ..." 03/Oct

    Black Grub
    "We did Evensong and Ivy Gash and then abbed down to the belay. Thought the route..." 12/Aug

    Bertram's Chimney
    "Did this on Saturday (early July). The exit to the top of the crag is very overg..." 13/Jul

    The Web
    "Seconded this today. It is not reasonable to grade this HVS, since, while the r..." 26/Sep

    Black Grub
    "Did this yesterday and the "path" across from The Thorn gearing up spo..." 30/Jun

    Solution Pollution
    "As of July 2008 this option is still possible and not at all overgrown - a pleas..." 04/Oct

    Majolica
    "To make it 6b+ I suggest you would need to clip the thread to the left after the..." 01/Oct

    The Thorn
    "The first pitch is just a way of getting to... The second pitch which is very n..." 06/Aug top50

    Beeston Eliminate
    "This is pretty tough for the grade and easy to get slightly off route making it ..." 05/Aug

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