The John Peel Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Silicon Wall Area  |  South Gully Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
30 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The tallest and best rock at Tissington Spires is the John Peel Wall. Most of the routes start in the awkward, narrow gully below the face, but soon reach majestic positions on the face above. George itself is a classic by anyone's reckoning, but the others are also worth a look while you are there. Guidebook page 316.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mandarin
On the left-hand side of the face is a right-trending overlap. Climb this to its end then pull up to reach a narrow ledge....
1 user comment
 HVS 4c
2
Brutus
The thin crack that runs up to the grassy col gives a pleasant pitch. Climb the crack to its end at a small overlap then step...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
3
There Will Be Blood
Start up Caesar (wires) then move out onto the smooth wall and climb this with great difficulty on a series of razor edges.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
4
Caesar
The thin seam running up to the right-hand edge of the col gives a fierce pitch, with a short blank section passed by...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6a
5
George Top 50
One of the best routes in the Dale - a big pitch, steep sustained and in a superb situation. Several old pegs remain though...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
6
Destot's Gap
Bold, devious, desperate and seeing little attention. A direct version would be even harder - but at least it would be logical....
 
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6c
7
Bye, George
Follow George to the base of the long crack then move out left to access a shallow groove. Climb this and grassy rock above to...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
8
John Peel
Another classic, taking a long diagonal line and giving strenuous but well-protected climbing with good rests.1) 5a, 25m....
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
HVS 5a
9
Black Flip
A hard route although the 1st pitch is good at HVS 5a.1) 5a, 22m. Start as for John Peel but follow the lower break out...
1 user comment
 
Technical
E4 6a
10
Wild Bill
Climb John Peel for 4m then head up the wall to a break and traverse right to the solid tree runner. Step back left and climb...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
11
Crazy Horse
An eliminate, but a good direct line with some fine climbing. Start just left of Yew Tree Wall and climb to where Wild Bill...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E3 5c
12
Yew Tree Wall
Tricky moves straight up the wall to a solid (non-yew) tree then continue in the same line to a fingery flake. Step right and...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5c
13
Geronimo.
Up Yew Tree Wall to the tree then climb the wall to the right until forced back left to rejoin Y.T.W.
 
Technical
E3 6a
14
Orange Peel
Long, arduous and rarely done. Not marked on the topo. Start left of Brutus, join and follow it to the ridge. Descend 5m then...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For DOVEDALE

    Claw Left-hand
    "Had been saving this route for years as it always seems to be wet. Oh my word wh..." 29/May

    Venery
    "Good crack climbing HVS 5a**" 17/Nov

    Simeon
    "Don't know about "low in the grade", I'd put it high in the grade." 03/Oct

    Aquarius
    "Really good route but wish I had read the comments about the vertical choss fini..." 19/Aug

    Southern Rib
    "Classic Peak Limestone HVS 5b (both pitches)" 05/Jul

    The Gladiator
    "The route is correct in the Rockfax guide with Adrian's slight re-wording probab..." 10/Jun

    Thunderball
    "Getting to the route is a definite pain (just getting up to the Watchblock is ba..." 06/Jun

    The Claw
    ""Battle" seems an appropriate verb. Unusual climbing - felt like gris..." 10/Oct

    The Claw
    "Led it in one. A good honest tussle up to the optional stance but I didn't enjoy..." 02/Aug

    Nancy Whisky
    "Worth 2 stars? I think so. E2? Probably not, but it's high in the grade. Certain..." 25/Jul

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