South Gully Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< The John Peel Wall  |  Dovedale Church >

Trad
Afternoon sun
30 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The last of the Tissington Spires is known as South Gully Buttress. The routes described here vary from the classically mild to the modern desperate but none of them are outstanding.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Zulu Dawn
Hard work, though it has a load of fixed gear. The rounded arete of the buttress is climbed initially on the right to bulges....
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
2
And the Weather
The bulging wall left of the main groove is climbed via the wide crack to reach the bulges. Cross these on the right via a...
 
Strong
E1 5b
3
Dr Livingstone
The deep groove is less of a darkest Africa experience than you might expect. Climb steeply into the groove, then bridge up to...
1 user comment
 
Loose
VS 4b
4
Stanley Wall
Follow the wide crack right of the arete, then move right to another crack in the wall to the right until the stance on Dr...
 VS 4c
5
The Mystery Tour
A natural extension to the previous routes for those who crave more of a wilderness experience. From the belay on the col,...
 HS 4b
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  • Latest Comments

    For DOVEDALE

    Black Flip
    "FFA Correction: John Fleming and Jim Shackleton made the first free ascent ca 19..." 05/Aug

    Claw Left-hand
    "Had been saving this route for years as it always seems to be wet. Oh my word wh..." 29/May

    Venery
    "Good crack climbing HVS 5a**" 17/Nov

    Simeon
    "Don't know about "low in the grade", I'd put it high in the grade." 03/Oct

    Aquarius
    "Really good route but wish I had read the comments about the vertical choss fini..." 19/Aug

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