Overhanging and Black Walls

Adjacent Areas
< Red Wall  |  White Wall >

Sport
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Sheltered

On the left-hand side of the shady wall is a popular venue with a good set of steep and mostly hard routes. The rock is a bit dusty and soft despite the traffic. The central section of the long shady wall is another set of steep and mostly hard routes. The rock is a bit dusty and soft despite the traffic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Reactn
The hidden groove and wall left of the main arete.
 6b+
2
Java Script
The soaring arete has a hard move getting back round right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
3
In the Pocket
A series of good pockets leads to a reachy (especially desperate for the short) finish. Crusty.
 
1 Stars
6c+
4
Pocket Rocket
Fine steep pocket-pulling via a left-facing flake system.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6c
5
Eye, Eye
A superb eye-catching pitch via a series of crusty pockets that runs up the leaning wall. Eases with height.
 
1 Stars
6b+
6
Exorcised
Excellent sustained and fingery climbing up the ochre wall. The rock turns a bit dodgy towards the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7b
7
Exo6
More sustained and fingery climbing with some neat manoeuvres up the pale streak. Holds have come and gone.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a
8
Bison Fute
Start up the previous route then swing right to tackle the blunt rib left of the long crack-line. Reachy and fingery, though...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a+
9
Pierluigi Galena
The long (galena) speckled crack-line gives a couple of big pulls. Can be muddy early in the season.
 
1 Stars
7a
10
Second Class Citizen
More sustained, fingery (and dirty) climbing up the orange face right of the crack. The finish is tricky and often damp too.
 6c+
11
Handy Borehole
Climb to the break then move out right and head up the fine wall above the prominent borehole. Sustained and good.
 
1 Stars
6c+
12
Quatrieme Quartier
One of the best routes of the grade here with sustained, pumpy climbing on good holds. From the break of Handy, move up (crux,...
 
1 Stars
7a
13
The Premier Club
Climb the tricky wall rightwards to reach Handy's traverse, do the borehole move, then continue direct via long spans up the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
14
The Pete Clark Diaries
A difficult lower wall leads leftwards to the break. Climb the wall above to a jug then move right and up on good holds to an...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
15
The Masson Chronicles
Start as for The Pete Clark Diaries, but at the break move right and up the excellent grey rock(!) via some sharp pulls to...
 
1 Stars
7b
16
Nice One Masson
Climb past the huge orange scar and on up the sustained wall. Care is needed with the rock near the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a
17
Woof Justice
Move left out of the groove at a flake and climb the tricky wall to reach a resting ledge. The face above is easier.Direct...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
18
Grand Theft Auto
The long groove line finishing via the easier wall above. This is a sport route that manages to feel like a trad route.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
19
The Cows, The Cows
Good climbing starting up the right arete of the prominent groove. A technical start leads to easier ground above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
20
Masson Accomplished
Another good route tackling the full height of the wall. The start is hard, the middle is reachy and the finish is pumpy.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a
21
Unveiled
A fingery, reachy start leads to a reachy and sandy finale.
 7a
22
Seventh Time Lucky
A hard start reaches easier climbing which leads to a long reach to complete the initial difficulties. The extension is...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
23
Never to Rise
A difficult start via a faint rib leads to fine technical face climbing and a tough finish; hard for the short. The excellent...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
24
Long Black Veil
Start up a left-facing flake then continue up the centre of the fine face above via sustained and very fingery climbing....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a
25
Fuck Your Gods
The climbing is better than the name, featuring some sustained and fingery moves.
 
1 Stars
7a
26
Cattle Mutilation Expedition
Good wall climbing with an awkward start and high crux. Sustained but pretty low in the grade.
 
1 Stars
6c+
27
Masson Impossible
The black face has the crux at half-height. Eliminate-ish.
1 user comment
 
Technical
6c
28
The Numbers Game
Balance up the shallow groove - a half-height crux again.
 
Technical
6b
29
Lifelong Learning
Another shallow groove with just a couple of tricky moves.
 5c
30
Closing Chapter
Awkward climbing with one hard move for good measure.
 
Technical
6b+
31
Opening Salvo
Trend right up the face to a steeper finale.
 6b+
32
Last Offence
Start under the block that overhangs the top of the crag and climb the wall via some reachy moves.
 6b+
33
Better Luck Next Time Steve
The short and technical wall on the far right. The start is tricky and the finish is steep.
 
Technical
6b+