Long Tor Quarry Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport

Morning sun

Level

5 mins

Guidebook page 362.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Mrs Jackson's Warning The left-hand route has a high crux. Crimpy and reachy.	Reachy Crimpy	6c+
2	The Orcadian Donkey's Spotted Tail Start up Mrs Jackson's.., swing along the break to a jug, then pull up left to gain a niche. Nice climbing gains a bigger hold...	2 Stars Reachy	6c+
3	Tatanka Yotanka Follow Orcadian Donkey to the jug, then pump all the way along the break to finish by descending Exit Wounds. There and back is...	2 Stars Pumpy	7a+
4	Depravity From the large hold on Orcadian Donkey's headwall, head right to eventually reach the lower-off above Rinsemeal.	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c
5	Mosey on Down the Crow Road Climb the wall on tiny holds (stick-clip the second bolt) then somehow reach the big flat hold up to the left. At the break,...	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	8a
6	King of the Jungle Hard, crimpy climbing above the small ledge to some respite at the break. From here, continue up Ruby Fruit Jungle but finish...	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	8b+
7	Ruby Fruit Jungle A good technical pitch with a reachy lower crux and plenty of hard moves above. Balance and stretch to the break, and pass it...	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	8a
8	Jungle Fury The blank wall between Ruby and The Boltest. Climb The Boltest to the break, then continue straight up via a series of intense...	1 Stars Crimpy	8a+
9	The Boltest Start at the left-edge of the red-stained rock and stretch and leap to the break. From here, sustained climbing leads to better...	3 Stars Reachy Technical	7c
10	Rinsemeal Climb the flake/crack to the break. Continue, using holds on the wall and the arete, to a tricky finish.	1 Stars	7a+
11	Jade As for Rinsemeal to the break then gain and enter the prominent groove. Bridge to the lower-off.	1 Stars Technical	6c+
12	Pistol Fingers Gain the break, then head up and left with increasing difficulty to reach a final tricky set of moves.	3 Stars Technical	8a+
13	Exit Wounds Climb to the break, then undercut and stretch for holds on the wall above. Hard moves lead to a better hold, then gain the...	2 Stars Reachy	7c+
14	Future Primitive Gain the crack-line by powering through the overhang. Precarious moves above this gain the Exit Wounds lower-off.	1 Stars Pumpy	7b
15	Duality Climb the flake, then stretch for the ledge above. Gain this awkwardly, then follow small finger-holds up the wall above.	Technical	7b+
16	Crystalline Layback the awkward crack to a hold, then more precarious climbing gains the lower-off.	Pumpy	7a
17	Sac du Sable Begin under a shallow groove, then trend up and right to reach the crack. Steep climbing on mostly good holds gains the...	1 Stars Pumpy	6c
18	Mr Jackson's Yawning Gain the initial ledge and climb the wall to a high crux.		7a+