Long Tor Quarry Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
Level
5 mins
Sheltered

Guidebook page 362.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mrs Jackson's Warning
The left-hand route has a high crux. Crimpy and reachy.
 
Reachy
Crimpy
6c+
2
The Orcadian Donkey's Spotted Tail
Start up Mrs Jackson's.., swing along the break to a jug, then pull up left to gain a niche. Nice climbing gains a bigger hold...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
6c+
3
Tatanka Yotanka
Follow Orcadian Donkey to the jug, then pump all the way along the break to finish by descending Exit Wounds. There and back is...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
4
Depravity
From the large hold on Orcadian Donkey's headwall, head right to eventually reach the lower-off above Rinsemeal.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
5
Mosey on Down the Crow Road
Climb the wall on tiny holds (stick-clip the second bolt) then somehow reach the big flat hold up to the left. At the break,...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
6
King of the Jungle
Hard, crimpy climbing above the small ledge to some respite at the break. From here, continue up Ruby Fruit Jungle but finish...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b+
7
Ruby Fruit Jungle
A good technical pitch with a reachy lower crux and plenty of hard moves above. Balance and stretch to the break, and pass it...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
8
Jungle Fury
The blank wall between Ruby and The Boltest. Climb The Boltest to the break, then continue straight up via a series of intense...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
8a+
9
The Boltest
Start at the left-edge of the red-stained rock and stretch and leap to the break. From here, sustained climbing leads to better...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7c
10
Rinsemeal
Climb the flake/crack to the break. Continue, using holds on the wall and the arete, to a tricky finish.
 
1 Stars
7a+
11
Jade
As for Rinsemeal to the break then gain and enter the prominent groove. Bridge to the lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
12
Pistol Fingers
Gain the break, then head up and left with increasing difficulty to reach a final tricky set of moves.
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a+
13
Exit Wounds
Climb to the break, then undercut and stretch for holds on the wall above. Hard moves lead to a better hold, then gain the...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
7c+
14
Future Primitive
Gain the crack-line by powering through the overhang. Precarious moves above this gain the Exit Wounds lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
15
Duality
Climb the flake, then stretch for the ledge above. Gain this awkwardly, then follow small finger-holds up the wall above.
 
Technical
7b+
16
Crystalline
Layback the awkward crack to a hold, then more precarious climbing gains the lower-off.
 
Pumpy
7a
17
Sac du Sable
Begin under a shallow groove, then trend up and right to reach the crack. Steep climbing on mostly good holds gains the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
18
Mr Jackson's Yawning
Gain the initial ledge and climb the wall to a high crux.
 7a+