Long Tor Quarry Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

A steep and shady wall hidden just metres from the busy A6, a short distance north of Matlock Bath.
Approach - Long Tor Quarry is right by the A6, just north of Matlock Bath and opposite the southern end of High Tor. Normal parking is in the station car park but there is also limited roadside parking where the parking restrictions end (care needed, the road is busy). A small gap in the wall with stone steps leads up into the quarry

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mrs Jackson's Warning
The left-hand route has a high crux. Crimpy and reachy.
 6c+
2
The Orcadian Donkey's Spotted Tail
Start up Mrs Jackson's.., swing along the break to a jug, then pull up left to gain a niche. Nice climbing gains a bigger hold...
 
2 Stars
6c+
3
Tatanka Yotanka
Follow Orcadian Donkey to the jug, then pump all the way along the break to finish by descending Exit Wounds. There and back is...
 
2 Stars
7a+
4
Depravity
From the large hold on Orcadian Donkey's headwall, head right to eventually reach the lower-off above Rinsemeal.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
5
Mosey on Down the Crow Road
Climb the wall on tiny holds (stick-clip the second bolt) then somehow reach the big flat hold up to the left. At the break,...
 
2 Stars
Technical
8a
6
King of the Jungle
Hard, crimpy climbing above the small ledge to some respite at the break. From here, continue up Ruby Fruit Jungle but finish...
 
2 Stars
Technical
8b+
7
Ruby Fruit Jungle
A good technical pitch with a reachy lower crux and plenty of hard moves above. Balance and stretch to the break, and pass it...
 
2 Stars
Technical
8a
8
Jungle Fury
The blank wall between Ruby and The Boltest. Climb The Boltest to the break, then continue straight up via a series of intense...
 
1 Stars
8a+
9
The Boltest
Start at the left-edge of the red-stained rock and stretch and leap to the break. From here, sustained climbing leads to better...
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c
10
Rinsemeal
Climb the flake/crack to the break. Continue, using holds on the wall and the arete, to a tricky finish.
 
1 Stars
7a+
11
Jade
As for Rinsemeal to the break then gain and enter the prominent groove. Bridge to the lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
12
Pistol Fingers
Gain the break, then head up and left with increasing difficulty to reach a final tricky set of moves.
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a+
13
Exit Wounds
Climb to the break, then undercut and stretch for holds on the wall above. Hard moves lead to a better hold, then gain the...
 
2 Stars
7c+
14
Future Primitive
Gain the crack-line by powering through the overhang. Precarious moves above this gain the Exit Wounds lower-off.
 
1 Stars
7b
15
Duality
Climb the flake, then stretch for the ledge above. Gain this awkwardly, then follow small finger-holds up the wall above.
 
Technical
7b+
16
Crystalline
Layback the awkward crack to a hold, then more precarious climbing gains the lower-off.
 7a
17
Sac du Sable
Begin under a shallow groove, then trend up and right to reach the crack. Steep climbing on mostly good holds gains the...
 
1 Stars
6c
18
Mr Jackson's Yawning
Gain the initial ledge and climb the wall to a high crux.
 7a+