Adjacent Areas
< None | Coyote Buttress >
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 minsSeepage
This fine compact little wall is situated directly above the bridge crossed on the approach. It has been floodlit at night in the past but nowadays the tree cover is too dense. The routes are short and intense and the crag is well sheltered and may even stay dry in light rain. The routes were bolted in 2010. Guidebook page 365.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Criminally Insane The left-hand line has a reachy and fingery start to gain the good flake on Trick Psychlist. Then tackle the powerful upper... | 1 Stars Reachy Crimpy | 7a+ |
2 |
Trick Psychlist Very technical climbing up the blank wall to a large flake, then through the bulge onto the upper slab. | 1 Stars | 7c+ |
3 |
Straight Psychlist A good link-up route. Start up Strait Jacket to just below the mid-height break, then move left to tackle the tricky bulge on... | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
4 |
Strait Jacket The left-hand side of the bulges with good laybacking moves and a tricky 2nd clip. | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | 7a |
5 |
Recoil A good route up the centre of the buttress gives sustained pocket pulling. Hard moves over the bulge lead to a hanging groove.... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
6 |
Shock Treatment A shorter route to the left of the corner line. Tricky and reachy climbing, especially on the final wall. | Technical | 7a |
7 |
Lunatic Asylum Boulder out the wall and head up the prominent groove to a slightly unstable exit. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy Loose | HVS 5c |
8 |
The Mentalist From the jug on Lunatic Asylum, reach out right and use an undercut to gain the high break. Climb the short groove above, then... | 1 Stars Crimpy | 7a+ |
