New Bridge Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Coyote Buttress >

Sport
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Sheltered

This fine compact little wall is situated directly above the bridge crossed on the approach. It has been floodlit at night in the past but nowadays the tree cover is too dense. The routes are short and intense and the crag is well sheltered and may even stay dry in light rain. The routes were bolted in 2010.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Criminally Insane
The left-hand line has a reachy and fingery start to gain the good flake on Trick Psychlist. Then tackle the powerful upper...
1 user comment
 7a+
2
Trick Psychlist
Very technical climbing up the blank wall to a large flake, then through the bulge onto the upper slab.
1 user comment
 
Technical
7c+
3
Straight Psychlist
A good link-up route. Start up Strait Jacket to just below the mid-height break, then move left to tackle the tricky bulge on...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
4
Strait Jacket
The left-hand side of the bulges with good laybacking moves and a tricky 2nd clip.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
5
Recoil
A good route up the centre of the buttress gives sustained pocket pulling. Hard moves over the bulge lead to a hanging groove....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b+
6
Shock Treatment
A shorter route to the left of the corner line. Tricky and reachy climbing, especially on the final wall.
 
Technical
7a
7
Lunatic Asylum
Boulder out the wall and head up the prominent groove to a slightly unstable exit.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Loose
HVS
8
The Mentalist
From the jug on Lunatic Asylum, reach out right and use an undercut to gain the high break. Climb the short groove above, then...
1 user comment
 7a+