New Bridge Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 mins
Seepage
Sheltered

This fine compact little wall is situated directly above the bridge crossed on the approach. It has been floodlit at night in the past but nowadays the tree cover is too dense. The routes are short and intense and the crag is well sheltered and may even stay dry in light rain. The routes were bolted in 2010. Guidebook page 365.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Criminally Insane
The left-hand line has a reachy and fingery start to gain the good flake on Trick Psychlist. Then tackle the powerful upper...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
7a+
2
Trick Psychlist
Very technical climbing up the blank wall to a large flake, then through the bulge onto the upper slab.
 
1 Stars
7c+
3
Straight Psychlist
A good link-up route. Start up Strait Jacket to just below the mid-height break, then move left to tackle the tricky bulge on...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
4
Strait Jacket
The left-hand side of the bulges with good laybacking moves and a tricky 2nd clip.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7a
5
Recoil
A good route up the centre of the buttress gives sustained pocket pulling. Hard moves over the bulge lead to a hanging groove....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
6
Shock Treatment
A shorter route to the left of the corner line. Tricky and reachy climbing, especially on the final wall.
 
Technical
7a
7
Lunatic Asylum
Boulder out the wall and head up the prominent groove to a slightly unstable exit.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
HVS 5c
8
The Mentalist
From the jug on Lunatic Asylum, reach out right and use an undercut to gain the high break. Climb the short groove above, then...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
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  • Latest Comments

    For WILDCAT

    McPlumb Wall
    "A worthwhile climb despite an unwelcoming approach and an unhealthy finish. The ..." 31/Mar

    Sphynx
    "Completely overgrown in june 2013" 01/Jul

    Climacteric
    "I think RW is wrong about the grade in both respects (although not about the foo..." 22/May

    White Room
    "The first pitch can be climbed more or less following the line shown in the new ..." 08/Aug

    Tiger Route 1
    "To do the 1st pitch at VS you need to traverse at low level below the reaching t..." 27/Jul

    Nine Lives Wall
    "Easy for 5a but the steep wall has a committing feel to it" 01/Nov

    Lynx
    "I'd swap the pitch grades around, first was 4a with spaced protection in places ..." 24/Aug

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