Buccaneer Area

Trad
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

A fine sector, which has some superb corner and roof climbs, pride of place being that taken by the magnificent Buccaneer and the nearby duo of Sinbad and Mickey Mouse.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Joe 90
A fine sustained pitch. Climb past a roof and trend left to the fault-line. Continue to another roof, then climb over and right...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
2
Flying Finish
A varied route starting under the left end of a long roof at 10m.1) 5b, 15m. Ascend to the roof then take a crack on the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
3
Billy Pigg
A great introduction into the art of roof thuggery with good gear. 1) 5b, 15m. Climb to the break in the roof and pull over...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
4
Rattler
A dominating groove line in a strenuous old style.1) 5b, 18m. Climb the groove past a big flake, then climb through a break...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E1 5b
5
Fish Supper
An exposed second pitch. Start 5m right of Rattler below a left-facing corner crack.1) 5a, 18m. Pass a roof and follow the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
6
Sinbad
A very pleasant outing with lots of variety. Start at a V-groove in the buttress front. The start has the 5b move but the...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
7
Larus
Previously HS 4b before the 2008 rockfall. This route should not be relied upon for an escape route! Guidebook description:...
8 user comments
 E1 5b
8
Mickey Mouse Top 50
A wonderful and hugely-impressive route with two completely differing pitches. If the second falls off the top wall they will...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 6a
9
Buccaneer Top 50
A truly magnificent climb that ascends the big narrowing groove to a wild finish. It gets an extra star for the beauty of the...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
10
Cutlass
A good looking direct line up the intimidating face 8m right of Buccaneer. Very bold. Ascend direct to a blind flake in a tiny...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6a
11
Koo-koo
A tough start leads to the big corner.1) 5c, 20m. Surmount the roof, then follow the corner. Traverse right to a pillar....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For BOULDER RUCKLE

    Jo
    "I've only just started getting into Swanage HVS and thought that this was a fant..." 25/May top50

    Old Faithful
    "Lovely route, and very steep - my second dropped a karabiner from the very last ..." 18/Aug top50

    Finale Groove
    "Just as good as I remember" 25/Jul top50

    The Grim Reaper
    "Had an epic on P2 after Mark led P1 to the rightly described scary stance. After..." 11/Jun

    Jericho Groove
    "Good little route well worth doing" 28/Oct

    Sun King
    "Good technical climbing but nothing really hard, just quite balancey. Fairly bo..." 19/Sep

    Mother Africa
    "quite a committing series of moves to get on the ledge, gain the crack and then ..." 17/Jul top50

    Finale Groove
    "What a great route, somewhat intimidating but once you get on it the holds keep ..." 07/Apr top50

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