Colehill Quarry Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
2 mins
Level
Sheltered
Restricted Access

Colehill Quarry is a secluded venue with an excellent set of routes, many of which rely on sloping holds. The climbing here is more varied and technical than other, more popular, sport-climbing quarries in the Peak - feeling more like well-bolted trad than sport.
Approach - The quarry is well-hidden just to the west of Bolehill which is 0.65 mile north of Wirksworth. Turn west onto Ravenstor Road and park sensibly on the big roundabout in the Business Park. A track leaves the north-east corner of this and a right branch leads into the quarry a couple of minutes away.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Posing Pouch
Soon deteriorates after a puzzling start.
 
Technical
6a+
2
Voyeur
The second line from the left is quite taxing.
 6a
3
Posing till the End
Nice climbing on spaced holds up the arete of the wall.
 
1 Stars
5c
4
I am a Poser and I Don't Care
The face right of the arete has a distinct crux by the flake.
 
1 Stars
5c
5
Garth was 'ere
Decent climbing which eases with height.
 
1 Stars
6a
6
In Vision
The long shallow scoop is high in the grade with a particularly tricky move at mid-height.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
7
Out-a-Sight, Out-a-Mind
Mantel the initial bulge then bridge the groove above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
8
Above 30
The start is tough and so is the finish. Low in the grade and easier for the tall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
9
Just this Side of 30
Start with difficulty as for Above 30 but move right and scale the centre of the wall where another hard move lurks.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
10
Taste the Grit
Layback and slap-a-way up the left-hand side of the arete.
 
1 Stars
6b+
11
What a Pity
The open groove close to the arete and easier ground rightwards.
 
Technical
6b
12
Slate Gray Lining
The rounded pillar has an awkward start and dirty finish.
 5c
13
Swooping on Nigel's Ruby
Start just right of the bush and climb the wall left of the orange streak. Finish up the right-trending groove.
 5c
14
The Desperation of Freedonia
Climb slabby rock then steeper ground - all a bit snappy.
 6a
15
The Reincarnation of Catatonia
The odd groove feature leads to a steeper finale.
 6a
16
The Execution of Dysphasia
Climb onto the nose and continue up a steep groove.
1 user comment
 6a
17
A Revolution for Dyspepsia
A tricky mantelshelf gains a shallow groove and steep finish which is especially tricky if tackled direct.
1 user comment
 6b
18
The Destitution of Threedonia
The line just left of the broken grassy groove.
 6b+
19
The Evolution of Micradia
This is the tall pillar just to the right of the grassy groove. The 1st bolt is high and there is some grotty rock.
 
1 Stars
5c
20
The One in Ten
A decent outing up the steep wall left of the big open groove though the crux pull on a dodgy flake is a worry.
 
1 Stars
Loose
6a+
21
The Booze Cruise
The longest line here tackles the wall just left of the open groove to a finish on the white pillar far above.
 
1 Stars
6b+
22
Cruisin' for a Boozin
The wall right of the groove has a tricky move low down and a long reach to gain the hanging flake. The upper wall is easier.
 
1 Stars
6b+
23
The Crinoid Cruise
The long crusty crack may be the best route here, though it doesn't get much attention. It eases with height.
 
1 Stars
E3
24
See Me Coming
Neat, technical face-climbing up the wall right of the crack.After the ledge, things ease.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
25
The Scarlet Woman
Hard moves (high 1st bolt) past the crescent moon feature lead to easier face climbing above.
 
1 Stars
6b
26
Crocodile Tears
An eliminate just right until forced into The Scarlet Woman.
 
Technical
6c
27
Alligator Crawl
An open groove leads steeply to the easier wall above.
 
1 Stars
6a+
28
Tolley put the Kettle On
Tricky moves link the flake with the sloping ledge.
 6c
29
The Convert
Hard climbing (originally a hairy E3 5b!) with a desperate central section leading to a steep finish.
 
Graunchy
7a
30
Forbidden Fruit
Popular, though with a tough, fingery crux.
 
1 Stars
6b+
31
Another Roadside Attraction
Another route that sees plenty of traffic, up the long groove-line.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
32
Old King Colehill
Nice, but sequency, climbing starting up the pale streak. The crux is low but the interest is maintained.
 
1 Stars
6c
33
It's a Hamster Mr. Fawlty
The shallow groove left of the edge of the wall is high in the grade since losing a crucial flake at 2/3 height. Move left and...
 
1 Stars
6a+