Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Up and Down
20 minsAbseil
Windy
A fine, leaning wall composed of mostly excellent rock that is home to a number of Swanage's finest single pitch extremes. The routes are sustained and although generally well protected, are very pumpy. The wall is a little featureless save for some thin crack-lines and the odd peg and thread. This makes route finding slightly problematical although the major lines of Ocean Boulevard, Mother Africa and Wall of the Worlds are easily identified. Guidebook page 376.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Le Jaune Mechanique Good climbing that weaves up the left edge of the huge Ocean Boulevard Wall. Start at a step in the rock platform. The pegs are... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E4 5c |
2 |
Barracuda Top 50 A mean fish which is steeper than first appearances might suggest. It tackles the first big crack-line on the wall and never... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E4 5c |
3 |
Tuna Lick An eliminate pitch just to the right of Barracuda, joining it near the top. Very strenuous. | 1 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
4 |
Ocean Boulevard Top 50 An outstanding Swanage classic. It follows the steep cracks and mid-height bulge towards the left-hand side of the wall. Very... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 5b |
5 |
Mother Africa Top 50 Superbly-sustained climbing that tracks an intricate line up the centre of the wall. Start at the base of the wall, below a... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
6 |
The Great Hunter House Milk Robbery Follow Mother Africa to the fault-line and then climb direct up a blank wall (peg). Step left into the parent route near the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6a |
7 |
Wall of the Worlds Top 50 A truly fantastic pitch. Sustained, well protected and with a pressing crux move high on the wall. Start below the very thin... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6a |
8 |
The Last Hurrah of the Golden Horde An impressive line but although the protection is adequate has its fair share of poor rock. Start at the base of The Ramp.... 1 user comment | Loose | E3 5c |
9 |
The Ramp A poor and loose escape route from the western section of the Ruckle. Follow the easy, stepped ramp heading diagonally right... | Loose | S 4a |
10 |
Indian Pacific A tremendous right-to-left girdle traverse of the upper section of the Ocean Boulevard Wall. Start as for The First Och Aye of... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
11 |
The First Och Aye of the Tartan Army Start from a stance two thirds of the way up The Ramp (there is a poor lower pitch). Move up and traverse out left to a peg.... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E3 5b |
12 |
Screaming Blue Messiah Start from the block belay on The Ramp. Climb steep thin cracks past a thread and peg. | Technical | E3 6a |
13 |
Queen of Carp An eliminate up the face just right of Screaming Blue Messiah past 2 pegs. Requires small wires. | Technical | E5 6b |
