Ocean Boulevard Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Lean Machine Wall  |  Aventura Area >

Trad
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

A fine, leaning wall composed of mostly excellent rock that is home to a number of Swanage's finest single pitch extremes. The routes are sustained and although generally well protected, are very pumpy. The wall is a little featureless save for some thin crack-lines and the odd peg and thread. This makes route finding slightly problematical although the major lines of Ocean Boulevard, Mother Africa and Wall of the Worlds are easily identified.
Tides - The boulder beach at the base of the cliff is above high tide.
Approach - Follow the coast path to the 4th stone wall, when walking west from the lighthouse. The abseil stakes are hidden above an earthy ramp 15m back towards the lighthouse from this stile. The abseil takes you down the upper part of The Ramp. Note - The abseil/belay stakes in the gully below the stone wall itself are directly above the route Ocean Boulevard and are often used as an alternative approach.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Le Jaune Mechanique
Good climbing that weaves up the left edge of the huge Ocean Boulevard Wall. Start at a step in the rock platform. The pegs are...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
2
Barracuda
A mean fish which is steeper than first appearances might suggest. It tackles the first big crack-line on the wall and never...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4
3
Tuna Lick
An eliminate pitch just to the right of Barracuda, joining it near the top. Very strenuous.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5
4
Ocean Boulevard Top 50
An outstanding Swanage classic. It follows the steep cracks and mid-height bulge towards the left-hand side of the wall. Very...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3
5
Mother Africa Top 50
Superbly-sustained climbing that tracks an intricate line up the centre of the wall. Start at the base of the wall, below a...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4
6
The Great Hunter House Milk Robbery
Follow Mother Africa to the fault-line and then climb direct up a blank wall (peg). Step left into the parent route near the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
7
Wall of the Worlds Top 50
A truly fantastic pitch. Sustained, well protected and with a pressing crux move high on the wall. Start below the very thin...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
8
The Last Hurrah of the Golden Horde
An impressive line but although the protection is adequate has its fair share of poor rock. Start at the base of The Ramp....
1 user comment
 
Loose
E3
9
The Ramp
A poor and loose escape route from the western section of the Ruckle. Follow the easy, stepped ramp heading diagonally right...
 
Loose
S
10
Indian Pacific
A tremendous right-to-left girdle traverse of the upper section of the Ocean Boulevard Wall. Start as for The First Och Aye of...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5
11
The First Och Aye of the Tartan Army
Start from a stance two thirds of the way up The Ramp (there is a poor lower pitch). Move up and traverse out left to a peg....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3
12
Screaming Blue Messiah
Start from the block belay on The Ramp. Climb steep thin cracks past a thread and peg.
 
Technical
E3
13
Queen of Carp
An eliminate up the face just right of Screaming Blue Messiah past 2 pegs. Requires small wires.
 
Technical
E5