Long Quarry Point DWS

Adjacent Areas
< Long Quarry Point Slabs  |  Christine Cave >

DWS
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Level

The Babbacombe area of coastline comprises the beautiful Anstey's Cove, the endless jug rails of The Long Traverse, and the well-situated headland of Long Quarry Point. Better known worldwide for the discovery of some of the world's oldest human remains in Kent's Cavern in 1927, this stretch of coastline is perhaps more important in this guide for the diversity of its deep water soloing, ranging from the leisurely saunter of The Long Traverse (4+) through to the desperate, leaning test-piece of Christine (8a). The region is delightful, with many places to hide away from the ravages of Torbay's often overwhelming tourism, and the routes provide a perfect taster of Devon's outlying DWS treasures.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Long Traverse Top 50
110m. This delightful excursion provides what Devon does best - cool traverse outings of the highest order. From Boulder Choke...
 
2 Stars
DWS
4c S1
2
Once a Dogger
10m. This superb and mega-steep test-piece starts as for Arapiles.... . Take a big tide, as the sea level ramp behind you...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7b+ S1
3
Arapiles, Oh Arapiles
9m. Just exquisite; a classy line indeed. This terrific line offers all those little niceties - an easy approach, a solid...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Strong
Crimpy
7a+ S0
4
The Book of Laughter
7m. From the ledge, swing in and climb the sustained left edge of the buttress to a juggy finale shared with the next route.
 
DWS
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c S1
5
Honour Bright
7m. The curling corner offers some great moves. Traverse into the base of the steepening corner, and follow it all the way to...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
6a+ S1
6
Honour Bright Arete
7m. This excellent route is the hardest line on the face. Traverse into the base of the hanging arete, pull onto it with...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
6c S1
7
Crystal Pockets
7m. This line offers a great collection of jugs. Traverse in, keeping low, until you reach a big flake hold. Dive up the wall...
 
2 Stars
DWS
5c S2
8
Midget Gem
7m. Take care with this one - the gully below is as tight as a badger's bum, and it's not so deep! Swing into the face, and...
 
DWS
6a+ S3
  • Latest Comments

    For LONG QUARRY POINT

    Renegade
    "On pitch 1 there is no bold climbing to the belay. Adequate gear and one easy mo..." 21/Aug

    Black Ice
    "This is a tremendous route - well worth the three stars. The moves into the shal..." 02/Aug

    Honour Bright Arete
    "I think I made the route considerably harder a couple of years ago by pulling of..." 26/Jul

    Honour Bright Arete
    "Mind the loose rock on top. I very nearly went toppling over backwards when, gra..." 11/Sep

    Blue Planet
    "a great route, with an awkward undercutting crux." 01/Jul

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