Adjacent Areas
< Long Quarry Point Slabs | None >
The Babbacombe area of coastline comprises the beautiful Anstey's Cove, the endless jug rails of The Long Traverse, and the well-situated headland of Long Quarry Point. Better known worldwide for the discovery of some of the world's oldest human remains in Kent's Cavern in 1927, this stretch of coastline is perhaps more important in this guide for the diversity of its deep water soloing, ranging from the leisurely saunter of The Long Traverse (4+) through to the desperate, leaning test-piece of Christine (8a). The region is delightful, with many places to hide away from the ravages of Torbay's often overwhelming tourism, and the routes provide a perfect taster of Devon's outlying DWS treasures.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Long Traverse Top 50 110m. This delightful excursion provides what Devon does best - cool traverse outings of the highest order. From Boulder Choke... | 2 Stars DWS | 4+ S1 |
2 |
Once a Dogger 10m. This superb and mega-steep test-piece starts as for Arapiles.... . Take a big tide, as the sea level ramp behind you... | 2 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 7b+ S1 |
3 |
Arapiles, Oh Arapiles 9m. Just exquisite; a classy line indeed. This terrific line offers all those little niceties - an easy approach, a solid... | 3 Stars DWS Strong Crimpy | 7a+ S0 |
4 |
The Book of Laughter 7m. From the ledge, swing in and climb the sustained left edge of the buttress to a juggy finale shared with the next route. | DWS Pumpy Crimpy | 6c S1 |
5 |
Honour Bright 7m. The curling corner offers some great moves. Traverse into the base of the steepening corner, and follow it all the way to... | 2 Stars DWS Technical Pumpy | 6a+ S1 |
6 |
Honour Bright Arete 7m. This excellent route is the hardest line on the face. Traverse into the base of the hanging arete, pull onto it with... 2 user comments | 2 Stars DWS Technical Strong Pumpy | 6c S1 |
7 |
Crystal Pockets 7m. This line offers a great collection of jugs. Traverse in, keeping low, until you reach a big flake hold. Dive up the wall... | 2 Stars DWS | 5+ S2 |
8 |
Midget Gem 7m. Take care with this one - the gully below is as tight as a badger's bum, and it's not so deep! Swing into the face, and... | DWS | 6a+ S3 |
9 |
Blue Planet 15m. Excellent climbing up the steep lower wall. Access is reasonable, with a down-climb across a ramp providing the way. From... | 2 Stars DWS Technical Strong Pumpy | 7b+ S2 |
10 |
Christine 15m. What a gift! Mind-blowing positions and good water make this one of the most enticing routes of its grade to be found... | 3 Stars DWS Technical Strong Pumpy | 8a S2 |
11 |
Losing my Religion 15m. The original steep 7b+ monster here, and a brilliant pitch indeed. Unfortunately the route has lost a block, which... | 3 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 7b+ S3 |
12 |
Waiting for Charlie 15m. The shapely hanging prow on the right edge of the cave. The route tackles the very underside of the prow, and is a slight... | 2 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 7c S1 |