Main Buttress

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Sport
Lots of sun!
35 mins
Uphill

A fine selection of climbs in a superb and sunny setting. Many of the pitches are long - a 70m rope is a minimum requirement here. Helmets are not a bad idea either. Guidebook page 74.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pas de vieux os
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
2
Le coq en pâte
 
2 Stars
5c
3
Arrêt sur image
Mossy ground leads to a high crux on the final bulges.
 
2 Stars
5c
4
Freetime
 
1 Stars
5c
5
Imagine
Nice climbing. Follow the left-hand line where it splits.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
6
Coup de coeur
The central line is excellent and varied.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5c
7
Mumure
A fine pitch on lovely juggy rock with a tough crux.
 
2 Stars
Technical
5c
8
Penelope
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 5+, 4) 5+. A fine, sustained four pitch outing up the left-hand side of the face, spoilt slightly by the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5c
9
Ballade de Johnny James
 
1 Stars
5a
10
Songe d'une nuit d'été
1) 5, 2) 6a. Another fine climb, with a steady first pitch and devious second one.
 
1 Stars
6a
11
Oaristys
Steady climbing to a high crux.
 
1 Stars
5c
12
Vive les gestes
1) 5, 2) 6b, 3) 5+. The second pitch is the highlight though the juggy third one has its moments too.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
13
Syntonie
Appropriately, green bolts mark this line.
 4c
14
Quid novie
1) 4, 2) 6a+. An easy warm-up leads to sterner stuff above.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
15
Zigzag
1) 6a+, 2) 6b, 3) 6a. Tackle the left-hand side of the main face via three long pitches. The crux pitch is devious - some long...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
16
Amarcord
Fine rock and great moves up the smooth grey face.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
17
Cotton Club
Nice climbing with hard moves towards the top.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
5c
18
Nettoyage de printemps
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
19
Konslediz
1) 5+, 2) 7a+, 3) 6c. A big route running the full height of the cliff with a major and long second pitch.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
20
Ballet brosse
1) 5, 2) 6a+. The second pitch is hard at half-height.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
21
Le thé au harem
1) 5+, 2) 6b. The first pitch is a bit beige in character; the second has some classy jug-pulling.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
22
Kot kot kodette
1) 6a, 2) 6b+. Two superb pitches heading for the cave in the centre of the face.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b+
23
Variation
1) 5, 2) 5+. The oddly-named pocketed wall in two pitches.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
5c
24
Entre-chat
1) 5, 2) 5+. A decent climb with only a couple of hard moves on each pitch. The 2nd pitch can be vegetated.
 
1 Stars
Technical
5c
25
Meli-melo
The last route on the face - a 70m rope is needed.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a