Sector Swany

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
20 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The right-hand Sector of Roc Steph is the first section reached on the approach. It has a baker's dozen of well-bolted routes on decent rock, with the added bonus of plenty of summer shade from the trees. Many of the climbs have hard starts leading to sustained wall-climbing above.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Couleur
The left-hand line climbs the sustained leaning wall.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a
2
Swany
Tricky, sustained and often dirty moves up the long yellow streak. Good climbing though.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
3
Jungle surf
Start of the right-hand end of the ledge and climb the leaning wall and technical grooves above. The difficulties are...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
4
Petits pas yoyos
From halfway up the approach ramp, climb easy rock to the ledge then good climbing heads up the bulging wall and ragged crack.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
5
Sérénade
Climb the short tough wall, then step out left and continue up the pleasant face.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
6
Trompe l'oeil
After the bouldery start shared with Sérénade, nice sustained work follows up the shallow groove.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
7
Des chênes-toi !
Another one with a tricky start off the right-hand end of the ledge.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a
8
Méli-mélo
Follow the glue-ins up the smooth wall once the tricky, bulging start is sorted.
 
1 Stars
6a+
9
Un vrai régal
Steady climbing (from behind the stump) to a tricky finale. Slightly dubious rock.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a
10
Acro dub F97
Follow the left-trending glue-in bolts up the wall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
11
Courte échelle
Climb to the flake system and continue direct to a lower-off under the capping bulges.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
12
Départ à bloc
Start off a pointed flake and pull though the bulge before climbing the wall above, passing a niche.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
13
Samantha
The last route on the crag. Small holds and ledges lead slightly right to the more direct finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b