Adjacent Areas
< None | Presse Purée >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
40 minsWindy
The most distant sector from the parking is perched above the pass of the Col d'Ijou and the path over to Contrac. This is one of the most varied sectors on the crag with a fine selection of 6s plus a handful of 5s and 7s making it a great venue for a mixed ability group. It is one of the quieter parts of the cliff, despite the fine set of routes. Guidebook page 84.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Samdi Climb the slab to the left of the overlap. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b |
2 |
Samdynamite Tough stuff around the overhang. The bolt out right is not used. | 1 Stars | 6c |
3 |
Gadou A more homogenous line than Samdynamite; easier over the overhang, but with some thin moves below it. | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6c |
4 |
Lichen Harder and more technical than it looks. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6a+ |
5 |
Quel est son nom? Unusual climbing starting to the right of some bushes. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
6 |
Verdon du pauvre A superb varied outing up the left side of the pillar. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
7 |
Plus blanc que blème Steep and hard to read, a real challenge to on-sight. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
8 |
La force soit avec vous A hard start with the crux early on followed by a good rest in the cave and an easier finish. | 2 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
9 |
Visqueuse insipide Set off up the small groove 3m right of La force soit avec vous. | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7b+ |
10 |
Le goujon de plus Climb the slab from the left side to finish just out of sight. | 1 Stars | 5 |
11 |
C'est si louette The right-hand side of the slab to the belay of Le goujon de plus. | 1 Stars | 4+ |
12 |
Six coq six nelles The leaning groove and bulges give a great pitch. Continuing up Gris éléphant extends the pleasure but not the grade. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
13 |
Gris éléphant A fine route up the highest part of the wall. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
14 |
Première pour mamie Top 50 A slightly wandering line starting right of the vertical crack. | 2 Stars Technical | 4+ |
15 |
Tramp A reachy move just below the shared lower-off is easier for the tall. Clip the first bolt of Première pour mamie. | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 5 |
16 |
Les 2 b | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | 5 |
17 |
Il a neigé sur yesterday Long moves on good holds up the right side of the slab. | 2 Stars Reachy | 5+ |
18 |
L'enfer des nains A hard bouldery start and a thin technical slab make for a fine and varied outing. | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | 7a |
19 |
La framçaise Another hard start in the orange groove. Shares a lower-off with L'enfer des nains, but is independent all the way. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | 6b |
20 |
L's prix d'équipe A right-hand finish is a bit easier. | 2 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
21 |
L's prix d'équilibre | 1 Stars Technical | 6b |
22 |
Des points communs The last route before the crag swings round to the tall Sector Presse Purée. | 2 Stars Technical | 5+ |