Adjacent Areas
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Presse Purée is probably the best sector on the crag for those climbing in the 5+ to 6c range and has a superb outlook, occupying a position high up on the crag. The routes are varied and interesting, featuring a fine selection of technical slabs, cracks and roofs. Mostly easy-angled to start, the routes to the left go on to tackle some burly overhangs, whilst those to the right remain just off vertical. The cracks and overhangs on the left side of the sector can suffer from seepage after rain. Shade, as ever, is limited to a few trees at the base of the routes. Guidebook page 86.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Interdit aux vélos Start at the top of the slope at the far left of the sector. A fine technical challenge. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 5+ |
2 |
Le piège This one features tricky moves around the small roof. | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | 6c |
3 |
Dommage Skip right around the small roof and finish up the steep groove. | 2 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
4 |
Tornado Avoid the big roof to its left and finish on the face to the right of the groove of the previous climb. | 2 Stars Technical | 6c |
5 |
Margote The easiest route on the sector follows the crack-line to the lower-off below the roof. | 1 Stars | 5 |
6 |
Zébulon Bridge up the steep corner groove and climb the crack to the shared belay. Better and harder than Margote to the left. | 2 Stars | 5+ |
7 |
À la colle One of the best. A technical slab leads to a powerful finish. Go right around the finish bulge for a bouldery alternate at 7a. | 3 Stars Reachy | 6b+ |
8 |
Presse purée An easy start leads to steep technical moves that are hard to read. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6c |
9 |
Le coup de la panne Another hard-to-read route. Head left from the crack to tackle the roof and finish up the slab. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6c |
10 |
Kèkcécsa A good long pitch with a novelty bolted-on flake. Follow the crack-line to pass between the offset roofs and finish high on the... | 2 Stars | 6a |
11 |
La fée du logis The big roof direct. Getting re-established on the slab is tricky, but well protected. | 2 Stars Technical | 6b |
12 |
L'herbe rouge Top 50 An independent line up the slabs just right. Fine technical moves with good rests too. The first bolt is high but easily... | 3 Stars Technical | 6a+ |
13 |
Poéter plus haut que son luth An interesting line heading left to the yellow cracked corner and back right to the shared belay. | 1 Stars Technical | 5 |
14 |
Colin The steep start is the main challenge of the more direct line. Take care reaching the first bolt on the wall above the... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |
15 |
Macarel Start on the left-hand side of the ramp. The thin start requires imagination and a bit of luck for the onsight. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6c+ |
16 |
Dudule Another hard-to-read start taking in the diagonal finger crack. Good climbing, but it eases off too soon to be a classic. | 2 Stars Crimpy | 6c |
17 |
L'écume des jours Set off up the left side of the pocketed wall and weave up the nice slab above. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6a+ |
18 |
Les neiges du Kilimandjaro Top 50 A popular outing that eases after the steep pocketed start, but remains absorbing all the way to the end. | 3 Stars | 5+ |
19 |
Chloé Another fine line launching up the right side of the pocketed wall. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b |
20 |
La roujas 1 One of the original lines of the crag - now fully bolted. Climb the flake to the left and slab above. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 5+ |
21 |
Sangria - Patience The direct line has shed a key hold which is currently passed with a point of aid. | 6b | |
22 |
Pâques aux tisons A fine long line. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 5+ |
23 |
Tentation | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
24 |
Le tichodrome An interesting line setting off from the bottom of the gully. After the blocky start, the orange corner gives some fine moves. | 2 Stars Technical | 6a+ |