Le Papy

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Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
30 mins

A justifiably-popular sector with climbs ranging from fine technical slabs to highly featured and just off-vertical faces, all on quality rock. The routes are often technical in nature with a fantastic variety of holds. For the grade 5 climber it doesn't get much better than this. Several multi-pitch routes to the right side of the sector are good outings for those confident around 6a and less popular, though equally worthwhile, are the harder pitches on the far right. The first bolts on many of the routes are quite high but are easily reached with care. Shade is limited to a few trees at the base. Guidebook page 90.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Remouille-moi la compresse
A fine climb, the spaced bolts help you concentrate.
 
3 Stars
5
2
Troiszocloques
Slightly harder than its partner to the left.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
5
3
Le belge sans moules
Very spaced bolts but only one short hard section.
 
2 Stars
Technical
5
4
Roxette
Another huge pitch with lots of good climbing.
 
2 Stars
Technical
5
5
Les sinsols
Good holds all the way to the steep finish.
 
2 Stars
5+
6
Blues pour un chat noir
The hardest of this part of the sector has a steep finish and some technical moves on the way.
 
2 Stars
Technical
5+
7
Les instantfataux
A classic of the sector, sustained technical climbing leads to the small roof at the top.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
5+
8
Théière de jardin
Another fine route on good holds.
 
3 Stars
Technical
5
9
Sette et uitte
Classic juggy climbing after a mildly tricky start.
 
2 Stars
5
10
Papylolo
Nice climbing on good rock, especially in the upper part, the start is tricky. Probably the pick of the easier 5s.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5
11
Coralie
A superb and sustained pitch on excellent rock.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5+
12
Julie Anissa
Steady climbing just left of the vegetation leads to a bulge. Step right then power through for a distant jug, continue more...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
5+
13
Vercoquins
1) 5+, 2) 5, 3) 5+. Twin 50s or a single 80m rope are needed to get off this one, set off just left of an old bolt and hanger.
 
1 Stars
Technical
5+
14
Le nauc
The hardest of the single-pitch routes. Start just right of the old bolt and hanger.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
6a
15
Moustique
1) 5, 2) 5+. Pass to the left of the small roof on the first pitch.
 
2 Stars
5+
16
Les herbes amères
1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 5+. Steady 6a all the way, twin 50s needed for the long last pitch. Take the small roof direct on the first...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6a
17
Money
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. The most varied and worthwhile of the three-pitch routes, with the first pitch well worth doing in its own...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
5+
18
La zonzonette
1) 5, 2) 6a+. A short easy slab is the approach to the long second pitch that heads right initially.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
19
Certaines l'aiment chauve
1) 5+. A scrappy approach pitch with a tricky first clip.2) 6c. Much better. Fine wall climbing on pockets and...
 
2 Stars
6c
20
Le cri du morpion
1) 5+, 2) 6c. The shared first pitch is poor. The second pitch is fantastic, exposed and very worthwhile.
 
2 Stars
6c
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