Adjacent Areas
< Grande Dalle | Sector Initiation >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
30 minsWindy
A justifiably-popular sector with climbs ranging from fine technical slabs to highly featured and just off-vertical faces, all on quality rock. The routes are often technical in nature with a fantastic variety of holds. For the grade 5 climber it doesn't get much better than this. Several multi-pitch routes to the right side of the sector are good outings for those confident around 6a and less popular, though equally worthwhile, are the harder pitches on the far right. The first bolts on many of the routes are quite high but are easily reached with care. Shade is limited to a few trees at the base. Guidebook page 90.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Remouille-moi la compresse A fine climb, the spaced bolts help you concentrate. | 3 Stars | 5 |
2 |
Troiszocloques Slightly harder than its partner to the left. | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 5 |
3 |
Le belge sans moules Very spaced bolts but only one short hard section. | 2 Stars Technical | 5 |
4 |
Roxette Another huge pitch with lots of good climbing. | 2 Stars Technical | 5 |
5 |
Les sinsols Good holds all the way to the steep finish. | 2 Stars | 5+ |
6 |
Blues pour un chat noir The hardest of this part of the sector has a steep finish and some technical moves on the way. | 2 Stars Technical | 5+ |
7 |
Les instantfataux A classic of the sector, sustained technical climbing leads to the small roof at the top. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 5+ |
8 |
Théière de jardin Another fine route on good holds. | 3 Stars Technical | 5 |
9 |
Sette et uitte Classic juggy climbing after a mildly tricky start. | 2 Stars | 5 |
10 |
Papylolo Nice climbing on good rock, especially in the upper part, the start is tricky. Probably the pick of the easier 5s. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5 |
11 |
Coralie A superb and sustained pitch on excellent rock. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |
12 |
Julie Anissa Steady climbing just left of the vegetation leads to a bulge. Step right then power through for a distant jug, continue more... | 2 Stars Reachy | 5+ |
13 |
Vercoquins 1) 5+, 2) 5, 3) 5+. Twin 50s or a single 80m rope are needed to get off this one, set off just left of an old bolt and hanger. | 1 Stars Technical | 5+ |
14 |
Le nauc The hardest of the single-pitch routes. Start just right of the old bolt and hanger. | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 6a |
15 |
Moustique 1) 5, 2) 5+. Pass to the left of the small roof on the first pitch. | 2 Stars | 5+ |
16 |
Les herbes amères 1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 5+. Steady 6a all the way, twin 50s needed for the long last pitch. Take the small roof direct on the first... | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6a |
17 |
Money 1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. The most varied and worthwhile of the three-pitch routes, with the first pitch well worth doing in its own... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 5+ |
18 |
La zonzonette 1) 5, 2) 6a+. A short easy slab is the approach to the long second pitch that heads right initially. | 2 Stars Technical | 6a+ |
19 |
Certaines l'aiment chauve 1) 5+. A scrappy approach pitch with a tricky first clip.2) 6c. Much better. Fine wall climbing on pockets and... | 2 Stars | 6c |
20 |
Le cri du morpion 1) 5+, 2) 6c. The shared first pitch is poor. The second pitch is fantastic, exposed and very worthwhile. | 2 Stars | 6c |