Pilier des Cathares

Adjacent Areas
< Sector Initiation  |  La Vire aux Chèvres >

Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
30 mins

A celebrated sector of multi-pitch routes reaching to the summit of Calamès. It has some worthwhile shorter routes mixed in for good measure. The rock is generally of good quality, although loose stuff can be encountered higher up. Routes are fully equipped unless otherwise stated; however, the bolts on the easier pitches can be well-spaced. For the routes arriving at the summit, the descent on foot is the best option whenever possible to avoid the risk of rockfall. Avoid the single-pitch routes if climbers are overhead. Always wear a helmet and take enough rope to abseil off if necessary. Shade is limited, and a few hours in the full heat of the sun can be draining even at cooler times of the year. Guidebook page 94.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Prélude
1) 4, 2) 5, 3) 5+, 4) 4+, 5) 4+, 6) 5, 7) 5. The left-hand line is a popular ramble taking a leftward line up the gentle slabs....
 
1 Stars
5+
2
Le p'tit Nicolas
1) 4+, 2) 4+, 3) 5+. Set off just right of Prélude. Two easy pitches lead to the challenging third pitch that finishes just...
 
1 Stars
5+
3
La voie des pères tranquilles
1) 4, 2) 5, 3) 5+, 4) 4+, 5) 4, 6) 5, 7) 5. Similar in style and difficulty to Prélude but only semi-equipped. The pitches have...
 
2 Stars
5+
4
Rioby
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. A fine homogeneous route. It is fully equipped and on good rock. Descend by abbing the route or follow Rio...
 
2 Stars
Technical
5+
5
Rio
1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 6a, 4) 5, 5) 6a. A good solid 6a featuring some sustained slab climbing. The bolting is quite spaced on the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a
6
Pilier des Cathares
The original line here was put up in 1984 and then re-equipped in 1995. The harder sections are well protected, but bolting is...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6a+
7
Mandarine mécanique
A fine direct start to Pilier des Cathares, joining that route at the top of the second pitch. Start 3m right of the memorial...
 
2 Stars
Technical
5+
8
La zipette
1) 6a, 2) 6b. The technical second pitch is excellent. There is the option to join Pilier des Cathares at the top of the third...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b
9
Avis à la copulation
1) 5+, 2) 6b, 3) 6b. A little gem hidden amongst its grander neighbours. Mostly slabby, but steeper in places and quite...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b
10
L'ami zantrop
Start in front of the group of oak trees. The first of two long (40m+) 6a+ climbs.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
11
Les pets de dame aux clebs
Start just right of the oaks.
 
1 Stars
6a+
12
Arabesque
Superb and varied climbing. Set off up the right side of the smooth central slab, just left of the vegetated groove.1)...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
13
Psychose
Start up Arabesque, but head right past the grey streak for the hard fingery finish.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
14
Pour Lubeline
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 5, 4) 5, 5) 5. Head up the slab just right of the vegetated groove. The crux on the second pitch features thin...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Loose
5+
15
Mixte
The final bolted line to the right of Lubeline. A fine slabby pitch though the bolts are a bit spaced.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a
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