Adjacent Areas
< Sector Initiation | La Vire aux Chèvres >
A celebrated sector of multi-pitch routes reaching to the summit of Calamès. It has some worthwhile shorter routes mixed in for good measure. The rock is generally of good quality, although loose stuff can be encountered higher up. Routes are fully equipped unless otherwise stated; however, the bolts on the easier pitches can be well-spaced. For the routes arriving at the summit, the descent on foot is the best option whenever possible to avoid the risk of rockfall. Avoid the single-pitch routes if climbers are overhead. Always wear a helmet and take enough rope to abseil off if necessary. Shade is limited, and a few hours in the full heat of the sun can be draining even at cooler times of the year. Guidebook page 94.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Prélude 1) 4, 2) 5, 3) 5+, 4) 4+, 5) 4+, 6) 5, 7) 5. The left-hand line is a popular ramble taking a leftward line up the gentle slabs.... | 1 Stars | 5+ |
2 |
Le p'tit Nicolas 1) 4+, 2) 4+, 3) 5+. Set off just right of Prélude. Two easy pitches lead to the challenging third pitch that finishes just... | 1 Stars | 5+ |
3 |
La voie des pères tranquilles 1) 4, 2) 5, 3) 5+, 4) 4+, 5) 4, 6) 5, 7) 5. Similar in style and difficulty to Prélude but only semi-equipped. The pitches have... | 2 Stars | 5+ |
4 |
Rioby 1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. A fine homogeneous route. It is fully equipped and on good rock. Descend by abbing the route or follow Rio... | 2 Stars Technical | 5+ |
5 |
Rio 1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 6a, 4) 5, 5) 6a. A good solid 6a featuring some sustained slab climbing. The bolting is quite spaced on the... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6a |
6 |
Pilier des Cathares The original line here was put up in 1984 and then re-equipped in 1995. The harder sections are well protected, but bolting is... | 3 Stars Pumpy Loose | 6a+ |
7 |
Mandarine mécanique A fine direct start to Pilier des Cathares, joining that route at the top of the second pitch. Start 3m right of the memorial... | 2 Stars Technical | 5+ |
8 |
La zipette 1) 6a, 2) 6b. The technical second pitch is excellent. There is the option to join Pilier des Cathares at the top of the third... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 6b |
9 |
Avis à la copulation 1) 5+, 2) 6b, 3) 6b. A little gem hidden amongst its grander neighbours. Mostly slabby, but steeper in places and quite... | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6b |
10 |
L'ami zantrop Start in front of the group of oak trees. The first of two long (40m+) 6a+ climbs. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6a+ |
11 |
Les pets de dame aux clebs Start just right of the oaks. | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
12 |
Arabesque Superb and varied climbing. Set off up the right side of the smooth central slab, just left of the vegetated groove.1)... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 6c |
13 |
Psychose Start up Arabesque, but head right past the grey streak for the hard fingery finish. | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7a+ |
14 |
Pour Lubeline 1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 5, 4) 5, 5) 5. Head up the slab just right of the vegetated groove. The crux on the second pitch features thin... | 3 Stars Technical Loose | 5+ |
15 |
Mixte The final bolted line to the right of Lubeline. A fine slabby pitch though the bolts are a bit spaced. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6a |