Les Grottes

Adjacent Areas
< Les Murettes  |  Abracadaplat >

Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill
15 mins
Seepage
Sheltered

The section of cliff nearest the road has a fine set of climbs and a good set of generally hard routes. They are mostly steep technical face climbs though there is the odd bouldery route around the caves that riddle the base of the wall. The area is quite popular. The face is in the sun from mid-morning, though the trees offer some shade. Sections of the wall are slow to dry after rain. Guidebook page 102.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cayenne
A project starting in the right-hand side of the cave follows the steep wall and finishes after the upper overhang. A handful...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
??
2
Overdose
Climb the blank overhanging wall and tackle the steep finish to the right. Currently the hardest completed line at Calamès.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b+
3
Overdose de gauche
The left-hand finish is still a project.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
8c
4
Overdose droite
The right-hand finish.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b+
5
La petite illusion
A thin start followed by the twisting corner-groove and finger crack.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
6
La grande illusion
The left-hand extension to Petite Illusion features a hard move through the upper overhang after a good rest.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
7
La désillusion
The right-hand extension to Petite Illusion crosses steep ground.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
8
Même les nains ont commencé petit
The blank technical face to the belay of Petite Illusion.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
9
Territores d'ombre
Steep wall climbing with a crimpy start and some powerful and reachy moves further up.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7b+
10
Histoire d'os
The route left of the big cave is missing a hold at the top, but is still worth 7a to the maillon on the penultimate bolt....
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
11
Nids de couleuvres
Climb out of the cave and finish up the blank slab. Rarely sees any attention.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b
12
Crache ton venin
Steep, with some manufactured holds and high in the grade.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
13
Bamboula
This one is also steep and sequency too.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
14
Tout le zinzin
A delicate start followed by long moves through the steep section on reasonable holds. To avoid the hard start, climb the first...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7a
15
Matosoïdienne
The easiest start on the wall leads to a mid-height crux.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
16
Variante à JR
The easier start to Saucisse Grillée has some delicate moves. As an easier alternative, climb to the second bolt of...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
17
Saucisse grillée
A difficult bouldery start on small holds is followed by a fine sustained, and much easier, headwall.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
6c+
18
Zélopithèque Top 50
A tenuous start leads to fine sustained climbing on good holds. An extension gives another 10m of good climbing at around 6b+....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a
19
Château Malvet 89 Top 50
There are a couple of options at the start; both are hard. After a good rest, the headwall is sustained with some tough moves.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
7a+
20
La bouillie bordelaise
Very hard moves to start, with a high first bolt to get the heart going. More sustained climbing above.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
7a+
21
Rahan
Superb sustained climbing that keeps on coming. A big move early on and a couple of sequency sections are the stoppers.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7b+
22
Mosaïque
Hard moves on the wall above the cave lead to the upper section of Homo Plombus.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
23
Illusion d'un fou
The steep start on good holds leads to fine technical moves above and the shared finish.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
24
Puzzle
Up the right side of the cave; small holds and a bouldery start.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
25
Homo plombus
Superb and sustained, with a great line and brilliant moves.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b
26
Le fils de Crâo
Power through the steep pocketed wall before tackling the (almost) blank slab and finish overhang. A varied route with a few...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
27
Lucie
A great route on superb rock, just the right side of vertical, but sustained nonetheless.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
28
Néanderdalle
A great name and a good route featuring an easy start up the groove. Check the big hole for bees before setting off.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
29
L'autre salaud qui pète
A fierce start with a stopper move leads to easier climbing above and a more-delicate finish.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6b+
30
Cro-magnon
Very small holds low down are followed by an easier section. There are tough moves on the headwall where you have to keep off...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
31
Les pierres à feu
Steady climbing leads to unobvious and bold moves high on the wall some distance above the bolt.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
6a+
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