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Sport

Sun from mid-morning

Uphill

15 mins

Seepage

The section of cliff nearest the road has a fine set of climbs and a good set of generally hard routes. They are mostly steep technical face climbs though there is the odd bouldery route around the caves that riddle the base of the wall. The area is quite popular. The face is in the sun from mid-morning, though the trees offer some shade. Sections of the wall are slow to dry after rain. Guidebook page 102.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Cayenne A project starting in the right-hand side of the cave follows the steep wall and finishes after the upper overhang. A handful...	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	??
2	Overdose Climb the blank overhanging wall and tackle the steep finish to the right. Currently the hardest completed line at Calamès.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	8b+
3	Overdose de gauche The left-hand finish is still a project.	2 Stars Reachy Technical	8c
4	Overdose droite The right-hand finish.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	8b+
5	La petite illusion A thin start followed by the twisting corner-groove and finger crack.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c
6	La grande illusion The left-hand extension to Petite Illusion features a hard move through the upper overhang after a good rest.	3 Stars Pumpy	8a
7	La désillusion The right-hand extension to Petite Illusion crosses steep ground.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	8a
8	Même les nains ont commencé petit The blank technical face to the belay of Petite Illusion.	2 Stars Reachy Pumpy Crimpy	8a+
9	Territores d'ombre Steep wall climbing with a crimpy start and some powerful and reachy moves further up.	2 Stars Crimpy	7b+
10	Histoire d'os The route left of the big cave is missing a hold at the top, but is still worth 7a to the maillon on the penultimate bolt....	1 Stars Technical	7a
11	Nids de couleuvres Climb out of the cave and finish up the blank slab. Rarely sees any attention.	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	8b
12	Crache ton venin Steep, with some manufactured holds and high in the grade.	1 Stars Pumpy	7c+
13	Bamboula This one is also steep and sequency too.	2 Stars Pumpy	7c
14	Tout le zinzin A delicate start followed by long moves through the steep section on reasonable holds. To avoid the hard start, climb the first...	1 Stars Reachy Pumpy	7a
15	Matosoïdienne The easiest start on the wall leads to a mid-height crux.	1 Stars Crimpy	6c+
16	Variante à JR Top 50 The easier start to Saucisse Grillée has some delicate moves. As an easier alternative, climb to the second bolt of...	3 Stars Pumpy	6c
17	Saucisse grillée A difficult bouldery start on small holds is followed by a fine sustained, and much easier, headwall.	2 Stars Reachy Crimpy	6c+
18	Zélopithèque A tenuous start leads to fine sustained climbing on good holds. An extension gives another 10m of good climbing at around 6b+....	2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7a
19	Château Malvet 89 Top 50 There are a couple of options at the start; both are hard. After a good rest, the headwall is sustained with some tough moves.	2 Stars Crimpy Fluttery	7a+
20	La bouillie bordelaise Very hard moves to start, with a high first bolt to get the heart going. More sustained climbing above.	2 Stars Fluttery	7a+
21	Rahan Superb sustained climbing that keeps on coming. A big move early on and a couple of sequency sections are the stoppers.	3 Stars Reachy Pumpy	7b+
22	Mosaïque Hard moves on the wall above the cave lead to the upper section of Homo Plombus.	2 Stars Technical	7c
23	Illusion d'un fou The steep start on good holds leads to fine technical moves above and the shared finish.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	8a
24	Puzzle Up the right side of the cave; small holds and a bouldery start.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	8a
25	Homo plombus Superb and sustained, with a great line and brilliant moves.	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7b
26	Le fils de Crâo Power through the steep pocketed wall before tackling the (almost) blank slab and finish overhang. A varied route with a few...	2 Stars Pumpy	7a+
27	Lucie A great route on superb rock, just the right side of vertical, but sustained nonetheless.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	6c+
28	Néanderdalle A great name and a good route featuring an easy start up the groove. Check the big hole for bees before setting off.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	6b
29	L'autre salaud qui pète A fierce start with a stopper move leads to easier climbing above and a more-delicate finish.	1 Stars Reachy	6b+
30	Cro-magnon Very small holds low down are followed by an easier section. There are tough moves on the headwall where you have to keep off...	1 Stars Crimpy	6c
31	Les pierres à feu Steady climbing leads to unobvious and bold moves high on the wall some distance above the bolt.	2 Stars Crimpy Fluttery	6a+

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