Dévers du Sédour

Sport
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Restricted Access

A fantastic crag for the 7c and above climber, with some tufa features and some conglomerate on the right. The crag has a pleasant situation overlooking Calamès and is a popular choice for the strong and powerful.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Alphabet
Decent climbing on compact rock.
 
1 Stars
7a+
2
Vouloir, c'est pouvoir
Name written on the rock.
 
1 Stars
7a+
3
Décampe de là
Mainly solid even though it looks pretty loose.
 
1 Stars
6a+
4
I Choose Not to Choose
Starts in the curved recess. The first bolt has an extension sling to protect the hard first move.
 
1 Stars
7b
5
La vire aux vautours
Good crimpy fun.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
6
La vire aux corbeaux
Pumpy climbing after a bouldery start..
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
6c+
7
Drosera
Pleasant climbing off the right edge of the upper ledge.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
8
Pringles-paprika
A left leaning line rising above a low arch. Good climbing.
 
1 Stars
7c
9
Rolling Stone
Start 2m right of a cairn. Hard moves on tufa pinches are needed to start then continue urgently.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7c
10
Ariège Against the Machine
Great name and decent route too. Start up the tufas immediately to the right of Rolling Stone, a classic of the cliff.
 
3 Stars
8a
11
Les trois seigneurs
Runout and spooky in its upper section but also excellent.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7c+
12
La guerre des beaux gosses
 8a+
13
Les trois chaudes
A wonderful route starting on the left side of the columns. A bouldery start leads to a pumpy traverse right and then up.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
14
La grotte chaude
Start in front of the tree with the swings. The start is dirty.
 
1 Stars
8a+
15
Something more
Linking to finish in Smoking orchestra gives an 8c.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
8b
16
Smoking orchestra
Start in front of two blocks and climb tufa pinches, moving to a roof at the top.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
8b+
17
Jungle boogie
Sustained and popular. Trend out right to join Calcites.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b
18
Calcites de contrebande
A desperate and lengthy undertaking blasting through the roof.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
8c
19
Million dollards papy
Start at the base of some black streaks.
 8b+
20
Cadavres exquis
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
21
Citadelle
Start on top of a block to the left of a larger block.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b
22
Citadelle Left-hand
Traverse diagonally up and left.
 
1 Stars
8a
23
Le son des tambours
 
3 Stars
8b
24
Rythm is love
 
3 Stars
8b
25
Corne de bouc
Start deep in the cave; powerful moves to exit.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
26
Envie d'ailes
Fingery and hard to onsight. The extension is 8b.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
27
Mac au Sédour
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b
28
Sialis
There are two extensions, 8a+ and 8c if climbed all the way.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
29
Rainbow warrior
Branches off left from the easy corner. The roof above the lower-off hasn't been done yet - fixed rope in place.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
30
Dièdre
The only easy route on the buttress up the right-leaning weakness.
 5c
31
Un petit pas pour l'homme un grande pour l'ébriété
 8a+
32
Paloma
Intense and absorbing climbing.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
33
Des cigales dans fourmilière
Traverse out dramatically right from Paloma.
 
2 Stars
8b
34
Air libertat
Start on the left-hand side of a big hole.
 8c
35
Sheitan
This one starts on the right of the big recess/hole.
 8a+
36
Goutte au nez
Intricate moves lead into the balancy groove.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b+
37
Ivresse Direct
 8a+
38
Ivresse canabique
Starts as for D.I.A. Varied climbing with urgent moves onto the no-holds ramp.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
39
D.I.A.
Start at the base of a tufa fan and fork rightwards through very steep ground.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
40
Platform 1
Great climbing around the arete from a platform left of a tree.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
41
Conglomerate 1
Pleasant conglomerate climbing.
 
2 Stars
6c
42
Hawaï peepee
The last route here features some vertical climbing.
 
1 Stars
7a