Adjacent Areas
< Bédeilhac Quarry | Le Cimetière des Boucs - Falaise Inférieure >
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill
25 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
Windy
Restricted Access
aNo climbing between 1st Feb and 30th June due to nesting birds.
A fantastic crag for the 7c and above climber, with some tufa features and some conglomerate on the right. The crag has a pleasant situation overlooking Calamès and is a popular choice for the strong and powerful. Guidebook page 108.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Alphabet Decent climbing on compact rock. | 1 Stars | 7a+ |
2 |
Vouloir, c'est pouvoir Name written on the rock. | 1 Stars | 7a+ |
3 |
Décampe de là Mainly solid even though it looks pretty loose. | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
4 |
I Choose Not to Choose Starts in the curved recess. The first bolt has an extension sling to protect the hard first move. | 1 Stars | 7b |
5 |
La vire aux vautours Good crimpy fun. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 7c+ |
6 |
La vire aux corbeaux Pumpy climbing after a bouldery start.. | 2 Stars Reachy Crimpy | 6c+ |
7 |
Drosera Pleasant climbing off the right edge of the upper ledge. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
8 |
Pringles-paprika A left leaning line rising above a low arch. Good climbing. | 1 Stars | 7c |
9 |
Rolling Stone Start 2m right of a cairn. Hard moves on tufa pinches are needed to start then continue urgently. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 7c |
10 |
Ariège Against the Machine Great name and decent route too. Start up the tufas immediately to the right of Rolling Stone, a classic of the cliff. | 3 Stars | 8a |
11 |
Les trois seigneurs Runout and spooky in its upper section but also excellent. | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | 7c+ |
12 |
La guerre des beaux gosses | 8a+ | |
13 |
Les trois chaudes A wonderful route starting on the left side of the columns. A bouldery start leads to a pumpy traverse right and then up. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
14 |
La grotte chaude Start in front of the tree with the swings. The start is dirty. | 1 Stars | 8a+ |
15 |
Something more Linking to finish in Smoking orchestra gives an 8c. | 3 Stars Crimpy | 8b |
16 |
Smoking orchestra Start in front of two blocks and climb tufa pinches, moving to a roof at the top. | 2 Stars Crimpy | 8b+ |
17 |
Jungle boogie Sustained and popular. Trend out right to join Calcites. | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 8b |
18 |
Calcites de contrebande A desperate and lengthy undertaking blasting through the roof. | 2 Stars Crimpy | 8c |
19 |
Million dollards papy Start at the base of some black streaks. | 8b+ | |
20 |
Cadavres exquis | 2 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
21 |
Citadelle Start on top of a block to the left of a larger block. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8b |
22 |
Citadelle Left-hand Traverse diagonally up and left. | 1 Stars | 8a |
23 |
Le son des tambours | 3 Stars | 8b |
24 |
Rythm is love | 3 Stars | 8b |
25 |
Corne de bouc Start deep in the cave; powerful moves to exit. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
26 |
Envie d'ailes Fingery and hard to onsight. The extension is 8b. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8a |
27 |
Mac au Sédour | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | 7b |
28 |
Sialis There are two extensions, 8a+ and 8c if climbed all the way. | 2 Stars Technical | 7c |
29 |
Rainbow warrior Branches off left from the easy corner. The roof above the lower-off hasn't been done yet - fixed rope in place. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
30 |
Dièdre The only easy route on the buttress up the right-leaning weakness. | 5+ | |
31 |
Un petit pas pour l'homme un grande pour l'ébriété | 8a+ | |
32 |
Paloma Intense and absorbing climbing. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
33 |
Des cigales dans fourmilière Traverse out dramatically right from Paloma. | 2 Stars | 8b |
34 |
Air libertat Start on the left-hand side of a big hole. | 8c | |
35 |
Sheitan This one starts on the right of the big recess/hole. | 8a+ | |
36 |
Goutte au nez Intricate moves lead into the balancy groove. | 3 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
37 |
Ivresse Direct | 8a+ | |
38 |
Ivresse canabique Starts as for D.I.A. Varied climbing with urgent moves onto the no-holds ramp. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
39 |
D.I.A. Start at the base of a tufa fan and fork rightwards through very steep ground. | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7c |
40 |
Platform 1 Great climbing around the arete from a platform left of a tree. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
41 |
Conglomerate 1 Pleasant conglomerate climbing. | 2 Stars | 6c |
42 |
Hawaï peepee The last route here features some vertical climbing. | 1 Stars | 7a |