Le Cimetière des Boucs - Falaise Inférieure

Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
40 mins
Restricted Access

aNo climbing between 1st Feb and 30 June due to nesting birds.


A superbly situated crag with a fairly arduous approach, and a great set of routes once you are there. Guidebook page 112.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Coquillage et crux tasse
A short but a very fine line. Start by scrambling into a shallow bowl and stepping right.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
2
Coquillage Right
A line immediately right of Coquillage but with even fewer holds.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
8b
3
Les caougnos 
The crack-line left of the prominent gash is gained direct from the path.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
4
Face Impressive
An impressive line direct from the small bush in a rocky hollow.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b
5
Face bouc
More fine climbing up the blankest part of the crag.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
6
Bouc et mystère
Start as for Face bouc but trend right through stepped overlaps into Bouc émissaire.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
7
Bouc émissaire
An improbable direct route through formidable terrain.
 
3 Stars
7b
8
Bouc Right
 
2 Stars
8b
9
Du feu dans les doigts
The longest route is also one of the finest.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
10
Crépitation 
From a start shared with the next route, trend left to avoid the worst of the blankness and follow slim grooves up and back...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
11
La vieille phobie du crepis
The direct line has an extremely blank central section.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
12
Medium
Fine varied climbing up the line of the thin crack gains the technical upper groove.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
13
Bibimdum
A line of pods and chimneys lead to the upper groove of Medium.
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
6c+