Le Cimetière des Boucs - Falaise Supérieure

Adjacent Areas
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Sport

Lots of sun!

Uphill

40 mins

Windy

Restricted Access

aNo climbing between 1st Feb and 30 June due to nesting birds.

A fine cliff, overshadowed by big brother but with a fine set of hard routes. Guidebook page 114.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Sacrebleu Follow the cleanest rock leftwards and back right to finish.	1 Stars Crimpy	6b+
2	Dalton Worthwhile but be careful with the suspect blocks.	1 Stars Pumpy	6a+
3	Tagada A fine route featuring a bit of everything.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	6c+
4	Couleur garonne Top 50 Starting in the groove, tricky moves through the neb overhang lead to the fine arete above.	2 Stars Technical	7a
5	Ordessa The line of the crag up the prominent corner doesn't disappoint.	3 Stars Pumpy	6a+
6	Tête en l'air Continually baffling climbing gained from the start of either Ordessa or Abnegation.	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7c
7	Abnegation The right side of the recessed wall is a good and sustained 6c+ except for one vicious move.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	7b+
8	L'art et la manière 1) 6c, 2) 7a. Start from the right end of the terrace. The first pitch is on hidden edges; the second takes the hanging rib...	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7a
9	Sarabande 1) 6b, 2) 7a. Pitch 2 is a pumpy journey up the steep grooves.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a
10	Chamallo The easiest line here follows a shallow groove, starting down left as for Sarabande.	1 Stars	5+
11	La croix et la bannière 1) 6b, 2) 7a+. From the start of the next route, move left to climb the open wall and the harder grooves above.	2 Stars	7a+
12	V'la aut'chose 1) 6b+, 2) 6c+. Battle through a succession of high grooves to a finish shared with La croix.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	6c+
13	Esprit libre 1) 6b+, 2) 6b+. Good climbing up a striking line but sometimes on disturbingly hollow flakes. Descend via the anchor on Plat du...	2 Stars Pumpy Graunchy	6b+
14	Plat du jour A crescendo of thin face moves.	2 Stars Technical Rounded	7a
15	Le vieux sam 1) 7a+, 2) 6c. Two good pitches, each with a bouldery start.	2 Stars Technical	7a+
16	Eternel debat Top 50 1) 6b, 2) 6b. The brilliant layback crack is only part of the fun.	3 Stars	6b