Adjacent Areas
< Left-hand Walls | The Pillar >
Sport
No sun
Uphill
10 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
An astounding arena with routes to match the setting. There is nothing easier than 7b+ here and to begin to get the most from the place the ability to climb at least 8a is required. The climbing is likely to seem very hard for the grade until you learn each route's many subtleties and cunning tricks. Guidebook page 120.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Big Mac From the name trend up and right on tiny holds to Amadeûs. | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8a+ |
2 |
Amadeûs 1) 8c, 2) 8a. A sustained burn on small edges. From the name, trend right before heading direct to a lower-off in the cave... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 8c |
3 |
Inch'Allah A line that parallels Amadeûs. The grade is unconfirmed. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 9a |
4 |
Descente aux enfers Fierce climbing to join Dame de Sabart at its crux. Start 1m right of the carved symbol. | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8c+ |
5 |
La chica Start in the gloom, up the right-hand side of a tufa and cross the roof to the lower-off on Décalage vers le rouge. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8b |
6 |
El chico A shorter version of the last route starting at a tufa dome. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
7 |
Dame de Sabart 1) 8a+, 2) 7c. A major outing with a long and powerful crux move. Start at the top of a green left-trending ramp. Cross the... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8a+ |
8 |
Thermostat 8 A short intense route to the first lower-off of the next route. | 1 Stars Technical | 8b |
9 |
Décalage vers le rouge 1) 8a, 2) 8b. Another big one. From the bottom of the ramp (name) climb to a lower-off in the hole a short way into the roof.... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8b |
10 |
Sérénité A shorter line up the pale slab then though the roof to the lower-off of Thermostat 8. | 1 Stars | 8a+ |
11 |
Le carcajou A major diagonal. Climb through poor rock then cross the roof leftwards to join Décalage which is followed to the big pocket on... | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 8c |
12 |
Lolita Link the second pitch of Dame de Sabart into Carcazou. | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 8a |
13 |
Reine de Sabart 1) 8a+, 2) 7c+. One of the best here forging a line across the pockets in the roof to the hole with lower-off and hanging rope,... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8a+ |
14 |
Le monde perdu From the hole lower-off, cross the roof rightwards to the conspicuous long yellow fixed quick-draw on the lip. Climb the line... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8b+ |
15 |
Terra incognita A harder right-hand finish to the last route avoids the lure of the big holds. 50m+ of climbing. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8c |
16 |
Gondwana 1) 8b, 2) 7c+. Head up the wall then leftwards to the hole lower-off on Reine de Sabart. Follow this to the top. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8b |
17 |
Momo and the Wailers Start up Gondwana to the roof then head right to the lower off in cave used by Histoire d'eau. The last section is the crux,... | 2 Stars | 8c |
18 |
L'effet Eric Break right and follow the holes/holds to the cave lower-off. | 1 Stars Graunchy | 8a |
19 |
Histoire d'eau When dry this offers a good taste of what to expect on its harder neighbours. From the left edge of the inner cave entrance... | 1 Stars Reachy | 7b+ |
20 |
La trilogie Start up Reine de Sabart but keep left just before the hole lower-off trend left to join Carcazou which is followed to the top.... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8b+ |
21 |
Promété The line to the right of the cave entrance leads up into the domed recess in the roof. Gloomy and often damp. | 1 Stars Technical | 7c |