Main Cave

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
No sun
Uphill
10 mins
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

An astounding arena with routes to match the setting. There is nothing easier than 7b+ here and to begin to get the most from the place the ability to climb at least 8a is required. The climbing is likely to seem very hard for the grade until you learn each route's many subtleties and cunning tricks. Guidebook page 120.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Big Mac
From the name trend up and right on tiny holds to Amadeûs.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
2
Amadeûs
1) 8c, 2) 8a. A sustained burn on small edges. From the name, trend right before heading direct to a lower-off in the cave...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8c
3
Inch'Allah
A line that parallels Amadeûs. The grade is unconfirmed.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
9a
4
Descente aux enfers
Fierce climbing to join Dame de Sabart at its crux. Start 1m right of the carved symbol.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8c+
5
La chica
Start in the gloom, up the right-hand side of a tufa and cross the roof to the lower-off on Décalage vers le rouge.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b
6
El chico
A shorter version of the last route starting at a tufa dome.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
7
Dame de Sabart
1) 8a+, 2) 7c. A major outing with a long and powerful crux move. Start at the top of a green left-trending ramp. Cross the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
8
Thermostat 8
A short intense route to the first lower-off of the next route.
 
1 Stars
Technical
8b
9
Décalage vers le rouge
1) 8a, 2) 8b. Another big one. From the bottom of the ramp (name) climb to a lower-off in the hole a short way into the roof....
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b
10
Sérénité
A shorter line up the pale slab then though the roof to the lower-off of Thermostat 8.
 
1 Stars
8a+
11
Le carcajou
A major diagonal. Climb through poor rock then cross the roof leftwards to join Décalage which is followed to the big pocket on...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8c
12
Lolita
Link the second pitch of Dame de Sabart into Carcazou.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
13
Reine de Sabart
1) 8a+, 2) 7c+. One of the best here forging a line across the pockets in the roof to the hole with lower-off and hanging rope,...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
14
Le monde perdu
From the hole lower-off, cross the roof rightwards to the conspicuous long yellow fixed quick-draw on the lip. Climb the line...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b+
15
Terra incognita
A harder right-hand finish to the last route avoids the lure of the big holds. 50m+ of climbing.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8c
16
Gondwana
1) 8b, 2) 7c+. Head up the wall then leftwards to the hole lower-off on Reine de Sabart. Follow this to the top.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b
17
Momo and the Wailers
Start up Gondwana to the roof then head right to the lower off in cave used by Histoire d'eau. The last section is the crux,...
 
2 Stars
8c
18
L'effet Eric
Break right and follow the holes/holds to the cave lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
8a
19
Histoire d'eau
When dry this offers a good taste of what to expect on its harder neighbours. From the left edge of the inner cave entrance...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7b+
20
La trilogie
Start up Reine de Sabart but keep left just before the hole lower-off trend left to join Carcazou which is followed to the top....
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b+
21
Promété
The line to the right of the cave entrance leads up into the domed recess in the roof. Gloomy and often damp.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c