Count's Buttress

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Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

Below the gap in the edge, where the Long Causeway links the Hope Valley with Sheffield, is the fine undercut face of Countís Buttress. This neglected area is home to a good set of climbs all best suited to tall, bold climbers.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Eden Arete
The short angular arete on the left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
2
Nightmare Slab
The left edge of the slab has a bold high step to reach a good break and gear. Pass the bulge by a long reach then finish...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
V3 6A+
3
Dream Boat
The near-blank slab between the two lines of poor holds.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V4 6B
4
Daydreamer
Start in the middle of the slab, at some polished holds, and a short vertical flake. Make perplexing moves to gain the ledge...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V3 6A+
5
Nightrider
Pick a dry day to streak up the green line.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V4 6B
6
Sleepwalker
Climb the slab passing a couple of tiny overlaps early on.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V3 6A+
7
Nightride Corner
The green and gruesome angle on the right of the slab.
 
Graunchy
S 4a
8
Out For the Count
The left arete of the main buttress has a bold move at half-height. A side-runner lowers the danger, and the E-grade.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
9
The Cool Curl
Climb the lower face to a ledge then step up and left to a precarious pull and crucial high step to get gain the central slab....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
10
Touched
The left arete of the chimney is less good than most here.
 
Technical
Rounded
HVS 5c
11
Count's Chimney
The rift that splits the face is vintage stuff. Once up the grubby lower section nice back-and-foot work passes the chockstone.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
D
12
Counterfeit
The right-hand arete of the deep chimney is climbed on its right-hand side. Side-runners lower the grade to HVS.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
E2 5b
13
Count's Wall
Climb the left-hand arete of the central cave to ledges, then the thin crack (poor small wires) to a bolder exit. Finish...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E1 5b
14
Counterblast
Climb the right-hand arete of the cave then move left to above its centre. Climb the slab using a small pocket and a crease -...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5b
15
Abacus
Follow Counterblast to the first ledge, then climb straight up the bold wall, directly above the right-hand edge of the cave....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5c
16
Count's Buttress
A great route with a devious but logical line. Easier (E1 5b?) for the tall. Climb the blunt arete on side-pulls to a small...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E2 5c
17
Count's Buttress Direct
Cut out all the looping with delicate and reachy moves.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E3 6a
18
Count Me Out
From the ledge on the traverse of Count's Buttress, pull up using three small pockets, to reach the centre of the horizontal...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5c
19
The Count
A great route with a bold start. Use a loose flake to reach the break above the lip where cams protect the move to the ledge on...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
Loose
E2 5c
20
Count's Crack
Gain the crack in the south-facing side-wall from the right by a short traverse along the horizontal break. Once entered it...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
21
B Crack
The deep angle bounding the buttress has a hard start; above it eases. The start can be avoided by sneaking round right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
HVD 4b
22
Anxiety Attack 2
The centre of the slab is tough and reachy.
 
Reachy
Rounded
E2 6a
23
Dracula
The arete is approached over a tricky bulge and climbed on its left-hand side by laybacking. Markedly easier for the tall.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5b
24
Scraped Crack
The awkward angle could do with a make-over!
 
Graunchy
VD
25
Basil Brush
Scratch a way up the slab just right. No line but nice moves.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5b
26
Mop Up
A thinner move or two up the centre of the slab.
 
Technical
Rounded
E1 5c
27
Lino
Technical moves left of the arete lead to jungle warfare.
 
Technical
Rounded
HS 4c
28
Prickly Crack
An oft damp start soon deteriorates into spiky nonsense .
 
Technical
Rounded
VD
29
Shirley's Shining Temple
A super-sketchy outing up the left edge of the blank slab still sees few repeats. Start at a small overlap and climb up and...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
V9 7C
30
Shock Horror Slab
Another technical teaser. Start below and right of a slight rib and scrape up the lower bulges to an easier finish.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
V5 6C
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Unfamiliar
    "Changed from E8 6c *** to E7 6c ***, no votes" 20/Feb

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

    Outlook Buttress
    "Solid E1." 16/Oct

    Nightmare Slab
    "Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in ot..." 10/Sep

    Crossover
    "Worthwhile route with varied climbing. The bold slab isn't too hard and good cam..." 12/Jul

    Cinturato
    "This is one of those routes where, if you're cruising at E3, it'll seem like a p..." 19/Jun

    Paradise Crack
    "Mates first lead on grit (and only his second climb on the stuff). There's loads..." 07/Jun

    The Count
    "Looks from the votes and comments that this doesn't start with a V5 boulder prob..." 24/Apr

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