Count's Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

Below the gap in the edge, where the Long Causeway links the Hope Valley with Sheffield, is the fine undercut face of Countís Buttress. This neglected area is home to a good set of climbs all best suited to tall, bold climbers. Guidebook page 126.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Eden Arete
8m. The sharp, short-lived arete on the left.
1 user comment
 S 4a
2
Nightmare Slab
8m. The left edge of the slab has a bold high step to reach a good break and gear. Pass the bulge above by a long reach then ...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E1 5b
3
Dream Boat
8m. Climb the blank slab between the two lines of poor holds!
1 user comment
 
Technical
E3 6b
4
Daydreamer
8m. Start in the middle of the slab, at some polished holds and a short vertical flake. Make technical moves to gain the ledge...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 6b
5
Nightrider
8m. Pick a dry day to streak up the green line.
 
Technical
E3 6b
6
Sleepwalker
8m. Climb the slab passing a couple of tiny overlaps early on.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 6a
7
Nightride Corner
8m. The green angle on the right of the slab.
 S 4a
8
Out For the Count
14m. The left arete of the main buttress has a bold move at half-height. A side-runner lowers the danger, and the E-grade.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
9
The Cool Curl
14m. Climb the lower face to a ledge then step up and left to a precarious pull and crucial high step to gain the central slab....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
10
Count's Chimney
14m. The dark rift that splits the face is vintage. Climb the easy lower section then back-and-foot past the chockstone.
 
1 Stars
D
11
Counterfeit
14m. The right-hand arete of the deep chimney is climbed on its right-hand side. Side-runners would lower the grade to HVS.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
12
Count's Wall
16m. Climb the left-hand arete of the central cave to ledges, then the thin crack (poor small wires) to a bolder exit. Finish...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E1 5b
13
Counterblast
16m. Climb the right-hand arete of the cave then move left to above its centre. Climb the slab using a pocket and a small...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5b
14
Abacus
16m. Follow the previous route to the first ledge, then climb straight up the bold wall, directly above the right-hand edge of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5c
15
Count's Buttress
16m. A great route with a devious but logical line - like a tough Kelly's Overhang, though this one is harder for the short!...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E1 5c
16
Count Me Out
14m. From the ledge on the traverse of Count's Buttress, pull up using three small pockets, to reach the centre of the...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5c
17
The Count
14m. A good route with a bold start. Use a loose flake to reach the break above the lip where Friends protect the move to the...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
Loose
E2 5c
18
Count's Crack
12m. Gain the crack in the south-facing side wall from the right by a short traverse out of the corner along the horizontal...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
19
B Crack
10m. The deep right-angled corner that bounds the main bulk of Count's Buttress has a hard start; above it gets easier. The...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVD 4b
20
Dracula
10m. The arete is approached over a tricky bulge and climbed on its left-hand side by laybacking. Markedly easier for the tall.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5b
21
Scraped Crack
10m. The angle needs a wash and brush up!
 VD
22
Basil Brush
10m. Scratch a way up the slab just to the right.
 
Rounded
HVS 5b
23
Mop Up
10m. Thinner moves up the centre of the slab.
 
Technical
Rounded
E1 5c
24
Shirley's Shining Temple
10m. A super-sketchy outing up the left edge of the blank slab still sees few repeats. Start at a small overlap and climb up...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
25
Shock Horror Slab
10m. Another technical tease. Start below and right of a slight rib and scrape up the lower bulges to an easier finish.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 6a
26
Flaked Crack
10m. The left-slanting crack is harder than it looks especially if the grassy ledge to the left is avoided.
1 user comment
 S 4a
27
Flaked Traverse
14m. Start as for Flaked Crack, and teeter right to a short crack.
 S 4a
28
The Trickledown Fairy
8m. The easy rib and sketchy upper slab. Bold and precarious.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
29
Bon Ami
6m. The shallow groove then the left arete.
 
Technical
VS 5a
30
Amoeba on the Edge of Time
10m. The right arete of the block.
 VS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

    Outlook Buttress
    "Solid E1." 16/Oct

    Nightmare Slab
    "Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in ot..." 10/Sep

    Crossover
    "Worthwhile route with varied climbing. The bold slab isn't too hard and good cam..." 12/Jul

    Cinturato
    "This is one of those routes where, if you're cruising at E3, it'll seem like a p..." 19/Jun

    Paradise Crack
    "Mates first lead on grit (and only his second climb on the stuff). There's loads..." 07/Jun

    The Count
    "Looks from the votes and comments that this doesn't start with a V5 boulder prob..." 24/Apr

    The Left Unconquerable
    "did this after 2 hours of bouldering so felt pumpy and got more tired from placi..." 07/Sep top50

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