Adjacent Areas
< None | Les Spouglas >
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and Down
3 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
The section of rock nearest the parking, so it is often quite busy. There are better routes in the sectors to the right, but there is still plenty of good climbing here. Guidebook page 128.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Eclair Good moves on massive buckets with the crux right at the top - stretch direct or swing right and mantel. | 2 Stars | 6a |
2 |
Eco..Système Engrossing technical climbing up the steep slab on small edges. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
3 |
Légende à Momo More good climbing on which a long reach may be useful. | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | 7b |
4 |
Volubilis The left arete of the next section is of escalating interest. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
5 |
Arabesque A balancy lower section leads to a hard roof. Hard for the short. | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | 6b+ |
6 |
Sarrasin Good moves on spaced holds. | 2 Stars Reachy Loose | 6c |
7 |
Danse avec les fouines After a technical lower wall, the crux slabby wall above is climbed on small pockets. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
8 |
Danse avec les fouines (right) The lower wall of the direct version may be the crux, but the last move could surprise. | 2 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
9 |
Paroxysme Very hard moves right out of the groove are tricky to on-sight. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
10 |
Coup de gueule Pretty hard for the grade with thin moves at two-thirds height. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
11 |
Foile de la messe Join Coup de gueule at half height. | Technical | 7a |
12 |
Ellie et le saint grall Pleasant enough, until all the holds disappear. | 1 Stars Technical | 8a |
13 |
Pièce en 2 actes The corner gives an easier pitch with a high crux. Often dirty. | 1 Stars | 6a |
14 |
Les fées papillons This is the white pillar left of the ivy, it has a bouldery crux. | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
15 |
Amazone Climb the thick ivy stems to pass the bulge, then bridge the groove. | 1 Stars Graunchy | 5+ |
16 |
Crise de bloc Good-but-fierce moves lead up and right to a rest. It still is not trivial above. High in the grade. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b |
17 |
L'épaule cassée A tough finish to Liqueur de cailloux that has blind moves up the hanging rib. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7b |
18 |
Liqueur de cailloux The easiest and best way up the face has a bouldery start, a tricky move back right and a pumpy finish. Climbing the central... | 2 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
19 |
Mac et des fées The direct line is low in the grade unless you're short, and is usually started just right of Liqueur via a hard mantel. | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 7a+ |
20 |
L'oreille cassée Moving right from Mac et des fées at half-height avoids the long reach and adds more good climbing up the fine wall. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
21 |
L'oreille cassée directe Those with strong fingers may find this easy for the grade. Stay low to sketch along the lip of the cave. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 7c+ |
22 |
Codex Skirt the cave from the right to join L'oreille. A route just looking for trouble. | 1 Stars | 7c+ |
23 |
Phéromone The last line offers only tricky and unsatisfying moves. | Reachy Crimpy | 6c+ |