La Grotte aux Fées

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
3 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The section of rock nearest the parking, so it is often quite busy. There are better routes in the sectors to the right, but there is still plenty of good climbing here.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Eclair
Good moves on massive buckets with the crux right at the top - stretch direct or swing right and mantel.
 
2 Stars
6a
2
Eco..Système
Engrossing technical climbing up the steep slab on small edges.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
3
Légende à Momo
More good climbing on which a long reach may be useful.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b
4
Volubilis
The left arete of the next section is of escalating interest.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
5
Arabesque
A balancy lower section leads to a hard roof. Hard for the short.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6b+
6
Sarrasin
Good moves on spaced holds.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Loose
6c
7
Danse avec les fouines
After a technical lower wall, the crux slabby wall above is climbed on small pockets.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
8
Danse avec les fouines (right)
The lower wall of the direct version may be the crux, but the last move could surprise.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
9
Paroxysme
Very hard moves right out of the groove are tricky to on-sight.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
10
Coup de gueule
Pretty hard for the grade with thin moves at two-thirds height.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
11
Foile de la messe
Join Coup de gueule at half height.
 
Technical
7a
12
Ellie et le saint grall
Pleasant enough, until all the holds disappear.
 
1 Stars
Technical
8a
13
Pièce en 2 actes
The corner gives an easier pitch with a high crux. Often dirty.
 
1 Stars
6a
14
Les fées papillons
This is the white pillar left of the ivy, it has a bouldery crux.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
15
Amazone
Climb the thick ivy stems to pass the bulge, then bridge the groove.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
5c
16
Crise de bloc
Good-but-fierce moves lead up and right to a rest. It still is not trivial above. High in the grade.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
17
L'épaule cassée
A tough finish to Liqueur de cailloux that has blind moves up the hanging rib.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
18
Liqueur de cailloux
The easiest and best way up the face has a bouldery start, a tricky move back right and a pumpy finish. Climbing the central...
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
19
Mac et des fées Top 50
The direct line is low in the grade unless you're short, and is usually started just right of Liqueur via a hard mantel.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7a+
20
L'oreille cassée
Moving right from Mac et des fées at half-height avoids the long reach and adds more good climbing up the fine wall.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
21
L'oreille cassée directe
Those with strong fingers may find this easy for the grade. Stay low to sketch along the lip of the cave.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
22
Codex
Skirt the cave from the right to join L'oreille. A route just looking for trouble.
 
1 Stars
7c+
23
Phéromone
The last line offers only tricky and unsatisfying moves.
 
Reachy
Crimpy
6c+