Les Spouglas

Adjacent Areas
< La Grotte aux Fées  |  La Loubetière >

Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
4 mins
Up and Down
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

50m right of the Grotte aux Fées, this steeper sector has a great set of quality routes. A spoulga is a fortified cave, often elevated, used for protection from assailants. There are fifteen or so notable spoulgas in this part of Ariège, many of which are twelfth century and are rumoured to have been last inhabited by Cathar priests evading persecution by Catholic forces.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Beijing express
Sustained technical climbing, offering just enough balance to hang around and get pumped.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
2
Dragon ball
Start 3m right at a brown wall. Short and not too hard if you can reach the holds.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6c+
3
Bébé run
Varied and interesting, particularly through the reachy roof.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
6c
4
Bull rider
Good but short-lived, with tough moves low down. Head through the centre of the bulges after the start. The best of this...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a
5
Les eaux coul directe
From an ivy-covered flake, make fierce fingery moves to join the parent route after its traverse.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7b+
6
Les eaux coul Top 50
Wonderful weaving technicality with just enough urgency. From the arrival point at the crag, follow the first couple of...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
7
Les eaux troubles Top 50
From the same start as Les eaux coul, follow the glue-ins up the face on the right, then the bulgy groove above.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
8
Survivor
Super-thin moves up the lower wall. Good edging shoes a must.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
9
Shangrila
The main diagonal is followed with increasing urgency to a rest in Cathares. Then head right again more easily to finish up the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
10
Shaolin
From the first crux on the traverse of Shangrila, move up with difficulty and follow the flake back leftwards.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
11
Cathares
Start at a large, chalked undercut. Opinion is divided whether this deserves 7a+ but all agree it's superb, with delicacy and...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
12
Les figues sont vertes
Sadly the direct on Cathares is almost impossible without a long reach. Even with one, the tricky slab crux might catch you...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
8a
13
Les figues sont mûres
Follow Cathares into Shangrila. Leaving Cathares is tough.
 
2 Stars
7a+
14
Les visiteurs
Good pumpy climbing along and up the diagonal crack.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b