La Loubetière

Adjacent Areas
< Les Spouglas  |  Passe Murailles >

Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
10 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

A good selection of routes in an elevated setting. The crag is usually quiet and has the benefit of afternoon shade. The rock is generally very good.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Oeuf dur tous les jours
Pleasant slab work, with holds.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
2
Vieille diarrhée
The evil crux-move is even more diabolical for the short.
 
Reachy
Technical
6b+
3
Au pied levé
A high first bolt, but thereafter very nice climbing. The crux is the bottom bulge.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
4
Vieille correcte
Joins Au pied levé for the move around the roof before dividing again straight after.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
5
Les forges du paradis Top 50
Good and contrasting climbing up the lower groove and upper slab, both on big holds.
 
2 Stars
5c
6
Pépé
 
1 Stars
5c
7
Mikado
The rock quality isn't as good as on the routes to the left.
 
Loose
5a
8
Tao
Nice bouldery sections between good rests, though there is some shattered rock.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
6a
9
Cornamuse
The fingery and sequency start divides opinion.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
10
Ipomée Top 50
The fine right-facing corner gets harder and fingery with height.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
11
Tourmaline Top 50
A great route offering little respite once committed on the first bulge. Technical in places.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
12
Transcookie
The steep wall to the right rewards technical competence. Thuggy, interesting moves and not too tough, unless you follow the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
13
Mineral garden Top 50
The holds are all there, but it's not obvious how to use them.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
14
Garden party Top 50
Join Mineral Garden after the crux.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
15
Le temps du rêve
Big biceps are a definite asset on this one.
 
2 Stars
7c+
16
Le couloir du temps
Fantastic, technical groove climbing.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
17
Volte face
Severe moves through the bulge require a determined and, usually, a dynamic approach.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
8a
18
La vallée de mai
Features some great crimpy moves through the crux bulge.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7c
19
Out back
Start from the rope hand-rail. The route is quality throughout.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
20
Black out
Continuously interesting climbing.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
8a+
21
L'ombre du guerrier
 
1 Stars
8a+
22
L'écho du rire
Once established in the hole you may never want to come out.
 
2 Stars
7c+
23
Dies ire
Dynamic moves required.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b