Adjacent Areas
< La Loubetière | Mille Roc and Dolmen >
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and Down
15 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
A jewel in the crown of Ariège climbing for those wanting grade 7 stamina routes. Many of the routes are a full 40m long, and do not have intermediate lower-offs so a long rope is essential. The buttress gets morning sun, afternoon shade and is very sheltered. Guidebook page 134.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Left Route Short and a bit loose but actually has some great moves. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 7a+ |
2 |
Free to Move Incredible technical climbing on ever-diminishing holds. | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
3 |
Microline It doesn't get better than this. Big moves through the middle bulge are followed by some decent rests. Not too technical. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7b |
4 |
Sadou Top 50 Like two or even three good routes in one. Hard moves interspersed with good rests. | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7a |
5 |
Le Fantôme More great climbing, this time with a definite fingery crux. | 2 Stars Crimpy | 7a+ |
6 |
Les 3 R Great rock, but unfortunately the crux is a reachy slab move so the route is less satisfying than the others here. | 2 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
7 |
No Fly Zone Three contrasting cruxes, and all of them good. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
8 |
Subduction | Technical | 8b |
9 |
Tectonique | 8a+ | |
10 |
El conquistador If the butch layback start doesn't see you off, the technical fingery headwall just might. Upgraded and still high in the... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
11 |
Taille Fine 0 % | Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
12 |
Tie beau The pleasant groove. | 1 Stars | 6a |
13 |
Rebelle A technical span rightwards at the bulge. | 1 Stars Reachy | 7a |
14 |
Kès que ça change The direct line to the anchor of Rebelle is fingery, technical and good. Tricky moves to get established between the roofs... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
15 |
Coeur de roc A bouldery start gains a good rest, then pumpy climbing follows. Much better and more solid than it looks. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
16 |
Pas pratique les lolos pèsent Technical and pumpy. Start in the left of two recesses. The lower wall is nice and easy, the upper wall is nice and hard. | 3 Stars | 7b+ |
17 |
Pertinence et désillusions Features some awkward fingery moves. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 7b |
18 |
Port du basque obligatoire Another short, technical and fingery one. | 1 Stars | 6c+ |
19 |
Le lièvre et la tortue The easiest route here is short and not very good. | 5+ | |