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Sport

Sun to mid-afternoon

Uphill

5 mins

Seepage

Dry in the Rain

A fine set of climbs, generally toward the upper end of the grade spectrum. There some long pitches here, especially if you intend ticking the extensions - 80m rope required. Guidebook page 145.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	L'isolée Unremarkable, but nice enough.	1 Stars	6a+
2	Malix (left) Passing the roof is the crux.	1 Stars	6c
3	Malix (right) Keeping right is better, and harder.	2 Stars	6c+
4	La spirale After a powerful start jig through the roof then keep to the right on the top slab.	2 Stars Technical	7a
5	Wolf A fine climb, with decent rests between the hard moves.	2 Stars	7b+
6	Abysse Great sequency climbing through the bulge.	3 Stars Technical Crimpy	7c
7	Phoebe directe Start from a tree stump. Another good and long pitch.	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7c
8	Phoebe droite Follow Phoebe directe for 20m, then break out right.	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7c
9	Super Phoebe Phoebe droite plus a 7a+ extension. Very long.	3 Stars Pumpy	7c+
10	Amalthée A good route for breaking into the grade. The first 10m can be climbed as a fingery 7b, moving right to a lower-off in Petite...	3 Stars Technical	8a
11	Super Amalthée Amalthée plus a 7b+ extension.	2 Stars Pumpy	8a+
12	Petite ourse Another worthwhile 7b (and one-star) to the lower-off under the roof. Above that it gets powerful and pumpy. Stepping left to...	3 Stars	8a+
13	Koan The direct line from the right end of the low overlap has a very powerful crux.	2 Stars Technical	8b
14	Grande ourse A tour de force starting up the twin tufas. The crux is particularly tough for short climbers.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	8b
15	La guerre des mondes Another major and very long pitch, slow to dry after seepage.	2 Stars Pumpy	8b+
16	La petite monstre A strugglesome beast, but easier than everything else here.	Technical	6b+
17	Combat des chefs The short left-trending line gets progressively harder.	2 Stars	7c+
18	Démons et merveilles Superb climbing past one lower-off (8a+) to a second anchor in Talisman. Continuing to the top of Talisman is 8b+.	3 Stars	8b
19	Talisman A mega outing, the crag's hardest route is also its finest.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	8c
20	Aladin	1 Stars	7b+
21	Le gènie	1 Stars	7c+
22	Masque minéral The best of the trio involves big moves on good edges.	1 Stars Crimpy	7c+
23	Marsupilami The left-trending line through the bulges is far from natural but still great fun. Only 7b if a rest is taken in the cave on...	3 Stars	7b+
24	Super Marsupilami Link the previous route with the upper section of Talisman before finishing rightwards.	3 Stars Pumpy	8a+
25	Galilée Shares the start with Marsupilami. Powerful then technical.	3 Stars Technical	7a+
26	Armazing Climb Galilée then campus through the bulge above.	2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	8b+
27	Demay Demay Deux Sparsely bolted and getting polished, but the run-outs are on easier ground.	2 Stars Fluttery	6c
28	Mort aux vaches To the roof.	2 Stars	6b+
29	Mort aux vaches extension A 40m extension with a very fingery crux.	1 Stars	8b
30	Pégase (1) Pull over the bulge, then climb the fingery wall up to the roof.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	6b
31	Pégase (1+2) The mighty extension to eventually join Riglos.	2 Stars Pumpy	8a+
32	Riglos (1) A popular but unpleasant pitch up the shiny groove to the roof.	1 Stars	6a
33	Riglos (1+2) The roof and wall above are said to be low in the grade.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	8a
34	Tsunami The right-hand finish to Riglos has been well crafted.	2 Stars Pumpy	7c+
35	Greystock (1)	1 Stars	6b+
36	Greystock (1+2) Given 8a elsewhere, but generally regarded as soft for this. Moving right at the top lip is hard to avoid.	3 Stars Technical	7c+
37	Angkorvat A good thought-provoking pitch up the face left of the groove and on through the stacked overhangs beyond.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c+
38	Métis Start up the slab then climb the tufa and wall above.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	8b+
39	Tupacamaro direct Weave through the roofs then finish leftwards. Starting up the layback crack,	2 Stars Crimpy	8a+
40	Tupacamaro Once on the wall finish rightwards a little more easily.	2 Stars Pumpy	8a
41	Andéavor A right-hand start is horribly drilled.		8b+
42	Vent solaire A fantastic route of great character starting up the pocketed right-leaning groove. The fingery middle section can be bypassed...	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	8a
43	Les portes du soleil The final route here joins Vent Solaire after 10m or so.		8b+

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