Cave

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
5 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

A fine set of climbs, generally toward the upper end of the grade spectrum. There some long pitches here, especially if you intend ticking the extensions - 80m rope required.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
L'isolée
Unremarkable, but nice enough.
 
1 Stars
6a+
2
Malix (left)
Passing the roof is the crux.
 
1 Stars
6c
3
Malix (right)
Keeping right is better, and harder.
 
2 Stars
6c+
4
La spirale
After a powerful start jig through the roof then keep to the right on the top slab.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
5
Wolf
A fine climb, with decent rests between the hard moves.
 
2 Stars
7b+
6
Abysse
Great sequency climbing through the bulge.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
7
Phoebe directe
Start from a tree stump. Another good and long pitch.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
8
Phoebe droite
Follow Phoebe directe for 20m, then break out right.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
9
Super Phoebe
Phoebe droite plus a 7a+ extension. Very long.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
10
Amalthée
A good route for breaking into the grade. The first 10m can be climbed as a fingery 7b, moving right to a lower-off in Petite...
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a
11
Super Amalthée
Amalthée plus a 7b+ extension.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
12
Petite ourse
Another worthwhile 7b (and one-star) to the lower-off under the roof. Above that it gets powerful and pumpy. Stepping left to...
 
3 Stars
8a+
13
Koan
The direct line from the right end of the low overlap has a very powerful crux.
 
2 Stars
Technical
8b
14
Grande ourse
A tour de force starting up the twin tufas. The crux is particularly tough for short climbers.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b
15
La guerre des mondes
Another major and very long pitch, slow to dry after seepage.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8b+
16
La petite monstre
A strugglesome beast, but easier than everything else here.
 
Technical
6b+
17
Combat des chefs
The short left-trending line gets progressively harder.
 
2 Stars
7c+
18
Démons et merveilles
Superb climbing past one lower-off (8a+) to a second anchor in Talisman. Continuing to the top of Talisman is 8b+.
 
3 Stars
8b
19
Talisman
A mega outing, the crag's hardest route is also its finest.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8c
20
Aladin
 
1 Stars
7b+
21
Le gènie
 
1 Stars
7c+
22
Masque minéral
The best of the trio involves big moves on good edges.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
23
Marsupilami
The left-trending line through the bulges is far from natural but still great fun. Only 7b if a rest is taken in the cave on...
 
3 Stars
7b+
24
Super Marsupilami
Link the previous route with the upper section of Talisman before finishing rightwards.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
25
Galilée Top 50
Shares the start with Marsupilami. Powerful then technical.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a+
26
Armazing
Climb Galilée then campus through the bulge above.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b+
27
Demay Demay Deux
Sparsely bolted and getting polished, but the run-outs are on easier ground.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
6c
28
Mort aux vaches
To the roof.
 
2 Stars
6b+
29
Mort aux vaches extension
A 40m extension with a very fingery crux.
 
1 Stars
8b
30
Pégase (1)
Pull over the bulge, then climb the fingery wall up to the roof.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
31
Pégase (1+2)
The mighty extension to eventually join Riglos.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
32
Riglos (1)
A popular but unpleasant pitch up the shiny groove to the roof.
 
1 Stars
6a
33
Riglos (1+2)
The roof and wall above are said to be low in the grade.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
34
Tsunami
The right-hand finish to Riglos has been well crafted.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
35
Greystock (1)
 
1 Stars
6b+
36
Greystock (1+2)
Given 8a elsewhere, but generally regarded as soft for this. Moving right at the top lip is hard to avoid.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c+
37
Angkorvat
A good thought-provoking pitch up the face left of the groove and on through the stacked overhangs beyond.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
38
Métis
Start up the slab then climb the tufa and wall above.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b+
39
Tupacamaro direct
Weave through the roofs then finish leftwards. Starting up the layback crack,
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
8a+
40
Tupacamaro
Once on the wall finish rightwards a little more easily.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
41
Andéavor
A right-hand start is horribly drilled.
 8b+
42
Vent solaire
A fantastic route of great character starting up the pocketed right-leaning groove. The fingery middle section can be bypassed...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
43
Les portes du soleil
The final route here joins Vent Solaire after 10m or so.
 8b+