Lean Machine Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
20 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

The furthest west area of the Boulder Ruckle is a very secluded section of the cliff, and its base is quickly cut-off from easy exit options. Most of the climbs are steep and pumpy experiences, though the gear is usually good.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sirius
The first of the mega-pumpy lines on this wall has good gear and good holds although care is required with the rock.Climb...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5b
2
Wild at Heart
A tight eliminate variation on Sirius. Start as for Sirius. Climb to the low roof but swing right and then up left into the...
 
Pumpy
E4 6a
3
Punks in Power
A hard pitch with good but spaced protection. A real arm destroyer. Start as for The Lean Machine. Follow The Lean Machine to a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
4
The Lean Machine
An incredibly steep and pumpy climb that wends its withering way up a series of well-protected cracks in the centre of the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
5
Surge Control
A superb stamina-test that follows the cracked face right of The Lean Machine. It shares the middle section of The Lean Machine...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
6
The Roaring Boys
The hardest route on the wall - almost E7 for effort. Start as for Surge Control. Climb Surge Control to the slot at the end of...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6b
7
Charge of the Wild Horsemen
Climb the groove then the slab diagonally right, up a crack, to the fault-line. Take the groove above to the right of the prow...
 
Loose
E1 5b
8
Charge of the Light Brigade
A counter diagonal to Charge of the Wild Horsemen, starting at a small groove near the arete. Finish by pulling right onto the...
 
Loose
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For BOULDER RUCKLE

    Snowdrop
    "Did this again yesterday. No stake at the top (used a rock belay and the stake ..." 25/Aug

    Jo
    "I've only just started getting into Swanage HVS and thought that this was a fant..." 25/May top50

    Old Faithful
    "Lovely route, and very steep - my second dropped a karabiner from the very last ..." 18/Aug top50

    Finale Groove
    "Just as good as I remember" 25/Jul top50

    The Grim Reaper
    "Had an epic on P2 after Mark led P1 to the rightly described scary stance. After..." 11/Jun

    Jericho Groove
    "Good little route well worth doing" 28/Oct

    Sun King
    "Good technical climbing but nothing really hard, just quite balancey. Fairly bo..." 19/Sep

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