Lean Machine Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

The furthest west area of the Boulder Ruckle is a very secluded section of the cliff, and its base is quickly cut-off from easy exit options. Most of the climbs are steep and pumpy experiences, though the gear is usually good.
Approach - Walk 50m (17 fence posts) beyond the 4th wall encountered on the coast path when walking west from the lighthouse, then climb over the fence and head down through a break in the bushes to the cliff edge. 5m to the right are 2 stakes directly above The Lean Machine. Make a free-hanging abseil to boulders. Access to the boulder beach is only possible if the sea is calm.
Tides - Climbing on this wall is not advisable in rough seas, although the approach described above is possible at high tide during calm seas. The wall can also be accessed from the Ocean Boulevard Area at low tide.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sirius
The first of the mega-pumpy lines on this wall has good gear and good holds although care is required with the rock.Climb...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3
2
Wild at Heart
A tight eliminate variation on Sirius. Start as for Sirius. Climb to the low roof but swing right and then up left into the...
 
Pumpy
E4
3
Punks in Power
A hard pitch with good but spaced protection. A real arm destroyer. Start as for The Lean Machine. Follow The Lean Machine to a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
4
The Lean Machine
An incredibly steep and pumpy climb that wends its withering way up a series of well-protected cracks in the centre of the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5
5
Surge Control
A superb stamina-test that follows the cracked face right of The Lean Machine. It shares the middle section of The Lean Machine...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5
6
The Roaring Boys
The hardest route on the wall - almost E7 for effort. Start as for Surge Control. Climb Surge Control to the slot at the end of...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6
7
Charge of the Wild Horsemen
Climb the groove then the slab diagonally right, up a crack, to the fault-line. Take the groove above to the right of the prow...
 
Loose
E1
8
Charge of the Light Brigade
A counter diagonal to Charge of the Wild Horsemen, starting at a small groove near the arete. Finish by pulling right onto the...
 
Loose
E1