Lean Machine Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
20 mins
Abseil

The furthest west area of the Boulder Ruckle is a very secluded section of the cliff, and its base is quickly cut-off from easy exit options. Most of the climbs are steep and pumpy experiences, though the gear is usually good. Guidebook page 374.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sirius
The first of the mega-pumpy lines on this wall has good gear and good holds although care is required with the rock.Climb...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5b
2
Wild at Heart
A tight eliminate variation on Sirius. Start as for Sirius. Climb to the low roof but swing right and then up left into the...
 
Pumpy
E4 6a
3
Punks in Power
A hard pitch with good but spaced protection. A real arm destroyer. Start as for The Lean Machine. Follow The Lean Machine to a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
4
The Lean Machine
An incredibly steep and pumpy climb that wends its withering way up a series of well-protected cracks in the centre of the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
5
Surge Control
A superb stamina-test that follows the cracked face right of The Lean Machine. It shares the middle section of The Lean Machine...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
6
The Roaring Boys
The hardest route on the wall - almost E7 for effort. Start as for Surge Control. Climb Surge Control to the slot at the end of...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6b
7
Charge of the Wild Horsemen
Climb the groove then the slab diagonally right, up a crack, to the fault-line. Take the groove above to the right of the prow...
 
Loose
E1 5b
8
Charge of the Light Brigade
A counter diagonal to Charge of the Wild Horsemen, starting at a small groove near the arete. Finish by pulling right onto the...
 
Loose
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For BOULDER RUCKLE

    Old Faithful
    "Lovely route, and very steep - my second dropped a karabiner from the very last ..." 18/Aug top50

    Finale Groove
    "Just as good as I remember" 25/Jul top50

    The Grim Reaper
    "Had an epic on P2 after Mark led P1 to the rightly described scary stance. After..." 11/Jun

    Jericho Groove
    "Good little route well worth doing" 28/Oct

    Sun King
    "Good technical climbing but nothing really hard, just quite balancey. Fairly bo..." 19/Sep

    Mother Africa
    "quite a committing series of moves to get on the ledge, gain the crack and then ..." 17/Jul top50

    Finale Groove
    "What a great route, somewhat intimidating but once you get on it the holds keep ..." 07/Apr top50

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