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Afternoon sun

Uphill

8 mins

A popular little crag which almost feels like it could be somewhere in the UK. There isn't much in the way of easier routes, but other than that, it is a cracking little spot. Guidebook page 162.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Asard zone Sloping holds near the top make this a tough on-sight.	1 Stars Technical Rounded	6b
2	Flo évolution Continually interesting with two discrete cruxes.	2 Stars Technical	6c
3	Beatitude The short may find it 6b or harder.	1 Stars Reachy	6a+
4	La tarte aux goujons A steep start left of Batman gains a diagonal crack and a finish on the right.		7a
5	Batman Gung-ho and entertaining, despite the obvious grim chipping.	1 Stars Pumpy	7a+
6	Zone rouge Start left of a block and detour round right at this grade.	1 Stars	6c+
7	50ème hurlants Twist through a series of holes off a block to the headwall.	2 Stars	7a
8	Botox Take the line to the right of a hole.	1 Stars Technical	6c
9	Tartarinade 5++	Technical	6c+
10	Derrière les fagots Tackle the right-hand side of the cave. The easy lower bulge is bafflingly chipped and the bolt by the lip is very hard to...	2 Stars Technical	7b+
11	Carnaval Intense and fingery to mid-height. High in the grade.	1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7a+
12	La nausée Start left of a low deep cave.	1 Stars Crimpy	7a
13	Jeux interdits Wacky moves out of the cave make for a memorable pitch.	2 Stars Technical Rounded	6c+
14	Tocos y se gausos A good route and popular warm-up right of the cave.	1 Stars Crimpy	6a+
15	Mona Good rock, though unfortunately spoilt by one very hard and reachy move.	Reachy Technical	6c
16	Garol Lou The line left of a hole has one hard pocket-pull.	2 Stars Crimpy	6c
17	Au bal des rombières Start just left of a bush. Sustained, interesting and another one that is tricky to read.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	6b+
18	Mirko Nice, but it has a hard crux, especially so for shorties.	2 Stars Reachy Technical	6c
19	Truc en vrac An excellent, hard to read route which 'aint over 'till it's over.	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7a
20	Clip de bloc Basically a direct start to Truc en vrac.	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	7b
21	Les inversées ça te nique Suits technical enthusiasts with strong fingers.	2 Stars Crimpy	7b+
22	Apnée The roof can be taken slightly more easily on the poorer right-hand variation.	2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7c
23	Du feu dans les doigts The pillar right of a cave has a fingery crux. One of the better routes of this grade on the crag.	2 Stars Crimpy	6c+
24	Baby Robert Start up the corner and move left to a steep and awkward finale. Avoiding the big flake out left is tricky, but the best way of...	1 Stars Pumpy	6b
25	La primitive The initial corner is awkward (don't give too much slack on the second clip). There is one more tricky move just below the top.	1 Stars Technical	6a
26	Anthromorphe Start at a cave left of a block. Involves some powerful moves, but not really very satisfying.	Reachy	7b+
27	Providence A decent route despite being a bit short-lived. Start from the big block.	1 Stars Reachy Crimpy	7a+
28	Restons calme Just right of the block - harder than it looks.	1 Stars	6b+
29	Formidiable The scoop above the point where the path meets the crag.	1 Stars Crimpy	7a+
30	Chaud effroi A line of flowstone that has just one baffling move high up.	1 Stars Technical	6c+
31	La belle aux doigts dormant The wall left of the long corner. Moving right into the corner at the crux is easiest but unsatisfying.	Reachy	7a+
32	Les anneaux de saturne A great climb up the diagonal corner, trending right near the top. Steep and rewarding.	3 Stars	6b+
33	Macalou Moving left near the top is technical and cruxy.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	7a
34	Trophoseptine A crimp city challenge for crimp chimps.	2 Stars Crimpy	7b+
35	Peau d'orange The wall has a couple of good shakes and a scattering of hard moves - almost 7b.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	7a+
36	Casse là ne tienne A bouldery lower wall leads to a memorable overhanging groove. Finish on the right.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b+
37	Le lotus bleu Save something (a lot?) for the powerful headwall.	2 Stars Technical	7c+
38	Mister T Hard and cruxy climbing with older bolts.	1 Stars Technical	8a
39	Oye como va Philippo Powerful moves rightwards on good holds. Clip the chain from the right.	2 Stars	7b
40	Le roux gémit Great, thin and sustained climbing.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a+
41	Magma 1 Excellent laybacking and jamming up the long diagonal corner.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a
42	Magma 2 Almost as good as Magma 1, leaving that route high up.	2 Stars Pumpy	7a
43	Coeur espagnol A disappointing and cruxy route.	Technical	6c
44	Mistigri A compact grey wall gives the difficulties.	Technical	6c+
45	Séraphin The last route is one of the easiest on the cliff. Trend right then back left.	1 Stars	6a

Sibada Routes

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